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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Picked up a 1995 Magnum 425 last week for a decent price. Purchased it knowing that it wouldn't start, previous owner said it ran, he parked it, went to go start it and according to him it wasn't getting any spark.

Hoping to find some help here in the forum, specifically the ignition coil. Hopefully we'll get it running.
 

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first change the plug and see if that helps if not then start with the kill switches the handle bar kill switch is a common point of failure, also check the etc switch if equipped its in the throttle on the handle bar i think this etc needs to be open circuit if i remember correctly. if all is good there test the coil with a multimeter unpluged and no power source unless you want a good shock, set to ohms stick one lead into the plug wire the other on the coil iron case (secondary) it should read a low resistance then check same method but instead of the plug wire put lead on the power feed to the coil and the iron case (primary) should read around 10k, but if there is no reading it means the coil has gone open circuit and failed, if it has a extremely high number it has likely shorted out. if everything so far is good it could be the cdi unit, the stator, if your machine has a yellow button on the handle bar (override) for reverse this system could be problematic and cause no spark and or backfiring when running.

hope this helps and gets you on the trails
 

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first change the plug and see if that helps if not then start with the kill switches the handle bar kill switch is a common point of failure, also check the etc switch if equipped its in the throttle on the handle bar i think this etc needs to be open circuit if i remember correctly. if all is good there test the coil with a multimeter unpluged and no power source unless you want a good shock, set to ohms stick one lead into the plug wire the other on the coil iron case (secondary) it should read a low resistance then check same method but instead of the plug wire put lead on the power feed to the coil and the iron case (primary) should read around 10k, but if there is no reading it means the coil has gone open circuit and failed, if it has a extremely high number it has likely shorted out. if everything so far is good it could be the cdi unit, the stator, if your machine has a yellow button on the handle bar (override) for reverse this system could be problematic and cause no spark and or backfiring when running.

hope this helps and gets you on the trails

That helps a lot, thank you. Am hoping to get pictures or part number for the correct ignition coil as well for the '95 model. The coil he had was incorrect and the only information for a replacement was a google search. Would like to see what other's have installed in there's. Something doesn't seem correct with the one I purchased. Attached a picture, I don't know what the purpose of the green wire is. Any thoughts?
 

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Keeping it simple, brown is ground - black is kill

Unplug the black wire from the CDI - if spark is restored, find where the black wire is connected to ground - if not, then it becomes a bit more complicated - check all grounds first, remember, the battery is not part of the ignition system (does not need a battery for spark). Le me know where you get with this info and we can trouble shoot the ignition system later. BTW - use a new spark plug when looking for spark - spark plugs can go bad from disuse
 

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Keeping it simple, brown is ground - black is kill

Unplug the black wire from the CDI - if spark is restored, find where the black wire is connected to ground - if not, then it becomes a bit more complicated - check all grounds first, remember, the battery is not part of the ignition system (does not need a battery for spark). Le me know where you get with this info and we can trouble shoot the ignition system later. BTW - use a new spark plug when looking for spark - spark plugs can go bad from disuse

That helps, will try it. Thank you.
 

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first change the plug and see if that helps if not then start with the kill switches the handle bar kill switch is a common point of failure, also check the etc switch if equipped its in the throttle on the handle bar i think this etc needs to be open circuit if i remember correctly. if all is good there test the coil with a multimeter unpluged and no power source unless you want a good shock, set to ohms stick one lead into the plug wire the other on the coil iron case (secondary) it should read a low resistance then check same method but instead of the plug wire put lead on the power feed to the coil and the iron case (primary) should read around 10k, but if there is no reading it means the coil has gone open circuit and failed, if it has a extremely high number it has likely shorted out. if everything so far is good it could be the cdi unit, the stator, if your machine has a yellow button on the handle bar (override) for reverse this system could be problematic and cause no spark and or backfiring when running.

hope this helps and gets you on the trails
The voltmeter readings are right where they should be, kind of narrowing it down to the CDI or stator and the stator job doesn't look fun.
 

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The voltmeter readings are right where they should be, kind of narrowing it down to the CDI or stator and the stator job doesn't look fun.
I have not done the stator but cdi is simple just costly depending who you get from. Cdi unit is in the front of machine under the headlight plastics on most units, it's a little black box little on the thick side.
 
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