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Only way a normally open relay can have partial voltage on the secondary side, is if the relay is not breaking the contact 100% for whatever reason - if it's a cheap relay, it could have a weak spring, or poor quality metal in the contact area that is arcing and building up material on one side or the other. Relays don't really need the diode to work properly - just a good power & ground on the primary side should pull in the contacts (on a normally open relay).

Just FYI - 5v is usually a reference voltage used by computers on FI machines for sensor feedback.

That light will come on when the charging voltage falls below a certain threshold. A weak battery will make the light come on under load, even with a properly functioning charging system. If the charging system is not working, the light will be on constantly. Should be a minimum of 13v (preferably higher) when running. Battery at rest (regular lead acid battery) should be 12.6v or higher.
 

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My battery when I test the DC volts while running reads 14.4 even with heated grips lights on still above 13.8. Had the battery checked by professional battery place and they stated battery was fine. The override mode works as it supposed to so I assume the ground on that relay circuit is fine. I guess I could pull the overide mod out and see what happens with the battery indicator. At least it would rule it out
 

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That's what I was thinking as I never had this issue prior to installing this mod. I guess the only way to make sure is to take it out and see what happens.
 

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Well I think I finally figure out what was causing my battery indicator to trip...looks like it was a combination of my fuse box up front having some corrosion in it and that damn dielectric grease on my battery terminals. I used the dielectric grease on the terminal blocks and this, of course, created an partially insulative barrier between the cables and battery. Cleaned these areas up with electrical contact cleaner and some scotch brite pads and all good.
 

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Looking at the wiring diagram for my 2003 Sportsman 700 and the reverse indicator wire (purple) when in reverse is then directly connected to a chassis ground.

In theory, if I ran key on accessory power to my rear lights and connected the lights ground to the purple wire then when in reverse the lights would have a completed circuit and come on.

Any thoughts as to why this setup wouldn't work?

Sent from the garage using a phone smarter than myself.
 

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Only way a normally open relay can have partial voltage on the secondary side, is if the relay is not breaking the contact 100% for whatever reason - if it's a cheap relay, it could have a weak spring, or poor quality metal in the contact area that is arcing and building up material on one side or the other. Relays don't really need the diode to work properly - just a good power & ground on the primary side should pull in the contacts (on a normally open relay).
Flyback or Snubber diodes are not required but they are a very good idea around electronics like the expensive Polaris speed heads. Polarity is important with snubbers in the relay socket wiring or incorporated into the realay.
The difference between good quality relays and Third World crap is around $2-$3. I can usually buy 12v Bosch and Tyco/Potter & Brumfield relays from the usual suspects for $5 or less... even Newark Electronics is around $5. Don't be Charlie cheapo.

Be sure to read the datasheet for your proposed part. Some ISO relays share coil ground and common terminals... uncommon but they are around.

My Droid from orbit
 

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For folks with the 2014 and newer Prostar bikes...
On the 570 and other 2014 & newer chassis machines the rotary gear position switch now has the resistor pack built in. Not sure if this applies to the last of the 400 HO Fuji engine bikes or not. It probably does.
You may be able to retrofit the older style switch & external resistor pack to gain backup lamps but it's not a completely straightforward install.


Assuming the older switch fits the transmission case... This is a fairly big assumption...

According to the 2015 Sportsman 570 wiring diagrams the resistances from the new switch matches the older switch and resistor pack.

The older models rotary transmission gear position switch uses a Delphi 12162210 Metri-Pack Series 150.2 Pull-to-Seat 6-Way Female Connector. Termination instructions for the Metri-Pack 150.2 series connectors here--> http://www.theelectricaldepot.com/pdf/Delphi/Pull2Seat.pdf
Since the two position connector is likely the same family of Pull-To-Seat connector as the 6 position there are no Male connectors other than the intended switches and sensors so you'll need to cut the wires off at the connector to continue. Thankfully they use the same terminals so re-installing is straightforward.

I would put a 2 position sealed Female connector on the bike harness ends. I'd recommend Deutsch DT or DTM series since they are easy to find and most other sealed connectors are fairly large.


Populate the switch plug from the resistor;
Orange (F), 12" of 18ga TXL wire(E), Green(D), Yellow(B), and Blue (A)
Terminate the Red resistor wire and the TXL wire from switch connector terminal E with a 2 position Female sealed connector. Use Female so it can't be mistakenly plugged into the connector on the bike harness.
Terminate the Switch and Resistor pack common wires to a Male sealed connector that mates with the connector installed earlier on the bike harness;
The newer model wire, marked "ECM signal ground" in the wiring diagram, will need to be connected to the rotary switch connector common terminal C.
The white wire from the Polaris 2204890 Resistor pack will need to be connected to the terminal for the remaining gearshift indicator wire that runs to the ECM.
Install backup lamp and override relays as before. Paying attention to the wiring manual for your bike.
 

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Hey guys. Very new to the forum with my first ATV (2005 Sportsman 500) I've been doing lots of work to it, thanks to all your info.

I plan on doing this reverse mod. Besides using the 2 factory work lights, I would like to add in an EXTRA LED work pod (something like this Amazon.com: 2 Pcs - OPT7® 18w Cree xMount LED Pods with Wiring Harness - Fog Light Work Lamp Spot Light for Off-Road ATV Utility Truck SUV: Automotive ) that I will mount on the rear.
Can I just simply tap into the existing work light wire and run it directly from that?
 
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