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Discussion Starter #1
ok, so here is what you need to do the reverse override/ auto reverse light mod

two 4 pin relays (5 pin will work also, you wont use the center pin)
8 push on spade connectors (waterproof is preferred)
assorted wires (roughly 10 ft in different colors)
wire taps (10 pack will do)
SMALL 2 prong switch to use in diagnostic mode

this is the type of relay you need. it is a standard 12V automotive relay.
this is the 4 pin version


this is the 5 pin version


either one will work.

do not use the relays that look like this


BEFORE YOU WORK ON YOUR MACHINE BE SURE TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY CABLES TO PREVENT ANY RISK OF SHORTING SOMETHING OUT!!!


start off in your shop or home with your relays and various wires and connectors in front of you






i stole mine from a parts truck i had out back. these are 5 pin relays. you only need 4 pin but the 5 pin works the same, you just dont use the center pin.






i used electrical tape to hold them together as shown. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE RELAYS IN THE SAME POSITION AS PICTURED WHEN YOU TAPE THEM TOGETHER

next you run a yellow wire as shown in the pictures. just twist the wires together and put them in the connectors. the wire coming off the relays is only about 12" long. this is going to be your power wire






next connect a blue wire that is about 12" long as shown in this pic






next step is your ground wire. i used a clear wire or you can use a brown wire if you want to make it easier to remember where it will be connected. this wire should be 12" long as well






next connect a wire as shown in the pic below. the wire that is loose on the relay with the blue wire needs to be about 4 feet long. (i only had a few wire colors so i used black tape to make some stripes on the long white wire to identify it from the other white wire) the loose wire on the relay with the brown ground wire only needs to be about 12" long








only one more wire to run on the relay pack! this wire needs to be about 4 feet long. (again due to limited wire colors i had i used a yellow wire and added tape to make striped to identify it.






CONGRATS, THE HARD PART IS OVER AND YOU ARE READY FOR THE INSTALL!

next pull the cover from your headlight pod and disconnect the speedometer and set it to the side.

find the 2 wire harness that controls the work lights. it is a blue and red wire on my 2007 sportsman 800.

here are the 2 harnesses you need to access in the pod. the larger is the speedometer harness and the smaller is the work light harness.





now connect the blue wire from your relay pack to the blue wire on the work light harness with a wire tap





next you will connect the power wire from your relay pack. THIS IS THE 12" YELLOW WIRE. NOT THE 4 FOOT WIRE WE PUT THE TAPE STRIPES ON!! this wire will connect to the RED wire in your work light harness



THIS IS WHERE YOUR SWITCH WILL COME INTO PLAY IF YOU DONT CARE ABOUT BEING ABLE TO USE DIAGNOSTIC MODE YOU CAN SKIP THIS STEP.

on the yellow power wire you just connected to the red wire in the work light harness go about 3 inches from the red wire connection and cut the yellow wire in half. you will now wire in your 2 prong switch to either side of the cut yellow wire.
THE ONLY REASON FOR THIS SWITCH IS TO ALLOW YOU TO ACCESS DIAGNOSTIC MODE. ALL LIMITERS ARE BYPASSED AUTOMATICALLY!!!



i mounted my switch out of the way since i will very rarely use it





next you will connect the ground wire from your relay pack. this wire was the clear wire shown in the pics. you will use a wire tap to connect this wire to the BROWN wire in your SPEEDOMETER wiring harness






the last connection you will make in the pod is the SHORT WHITE WIRE. this is the 12" wire from your relay pack. it will be connected with a wire tap to the GRAY/orange stripe wire in your speedometer harness



YOU ARE NOW FINISHED


i used electrical tape to keep any connections in my relay pack from shorting out. make sure it is wrapped up good so water cant get in.






THE ONLY WIRES YOU HAVE LEFT ARE THE TWO LONG 4 FOOT WIRES FROM YOUR RELAY PACK. i taped these wires together with electrical tape to keep them held tightly together and make it look cleaner. only tape about 2 feet to leave yourself room to work with.

i ran these two wires down from the headlight pod down into the frame as shown.






next remove your seat and the black plastic that is on the side of your machine just under the gas tank.
i ran the wires along the side of the frame by the gas tank as shown in the picture

a zip tie was used to hold them in place at the front of where the seat slides into place.

be sure to leave enough slack in the wires for full movement of the handle bars!!!!!!!!






next find the transmission position sensor on the right side of your machine just under the shift linkage.
it is the black sensor shown in the pic



disconnect the harness and pull it up through the frame where the seat should be. you will have to remove the wire loom while you work on these wires. you may have to cut a zip tie from the harness to get enough room to work on everything

find the PURPLE WIRE in the transmission position sensor wire and cut it in half (MAKE SURE TO LEAVE ENOUGH ROOM TO WORK WITH ON BOTH ENDS!!!!!)






i used crimp on connectors on these wires.
THIS NEXT STEP IS VERY IMPORTANT. MAKE SURE THE WIRES ARE CONNECTED AS SHOWN. THIS MOD WILL NOT WORK IF THE WIRES ARE REVERSED!!!!!!!!

your yellow wire that we put the black stripes on will connect to the side of the purple wire that continues back into the wire loom towards the left side of your machine.



the white wire that we put the black stripes on will connect to the side of the purple wire that leads back to the harness end that you just unplugged.







next just tape up the crimp on connectors so water cant get in and corrode things.


next tuck all the wires back into the wire loom and finish taping up everything so all wires are protected

plug the transmission position harness back into the sensor making sure the wires are routed the same way they came out.

use zip ties to make sure none of the wires are going to touch the exhaust or rub the frame while you are riding.




looking down from the top




all that is left is to test everything out. connect your battery as normal, turn your key to the on position and shift the gear selector to reverse. the display should show "SLOW" and the work lights should come on automatically. if both of these dont happen check that your switch is in the ON position.

enjoy your new automatic bypass and the added functionality of your reverse lights.

my 800 was not equipped with the work light switch from the factory. this mod should work the same on one that has the work light switch.


while you are in any gear other than reverse you can make the reverse lights come on by holding that old annoying yellow button. the dash will show that the machine is in reverse but it will not affect anything. i have been riding 40 MPH and hit the yellow button and the display is just tricked into showing the "R" it will not throw the trans in reverse!

i tested this mod this past week and have not had any side affects from it.




if you need to use diagnostic mode simply turn your switch to the off position and everything will revert to they way it was from the factory.

when you want the reverse lights and limiters bypassed again simply turn the switch back on again




ENJOY!!!!!!!!!:fest06:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
if you have the tail lights with the clear lens on the sides "AKA work lights" they will function as reverse lights. mine was the lower model sportsman and didnt have the switch or bulbs for the work lights although the wiring and fuse is there. i just got a pair of 921 bulbs ($5.00) and the wiring did the rest!!!

i have figured everything out to keep EVERY function with the display working as it should. this includes getting the clock reset in the service mode. it would require a momentary push button to keep everything working correctly, but if you are like me just have your clock set before you do this mod and everything works fine. if you do need to reset anything in the service mode after this mod just pull the top of the pod and disconnect one wire till you have everything set, then reconnect it.

WORKING ON THE WRITE UP IN A FEW MIN. UPLOADING PICS NOW
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Does this effect being able to go into diagnostic mode and using the features inside of there?

using a momentary switch will allow full use of the diagnostic mode. you could easily wire a small switch in to keep it all working correctly. the only time the switch would need to be used at all is to get into the diagnostic mode.

i am going to install a small switch i have laying around and use it in the write up. AGAIN THE SWITCH IS ONLY USED FOR GETTING INTO DIAGNOSTIC MODE, NOT FOR THE REVERSE LIMITERS


EDIT: just finished some changes. the diagnostic mode is now fully functional and still retained all the other benefits of this mod.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
the ideas just keep going today!!!!!

now i think i have it figured out where i can make everything work including the diagnostic mode without even using the switch to interrupt the power to the realys. if what i'm thinking is correct it will also cure the "R" showing up on the display when the stock override button is pressed to trigger the work lights in all gears other than reverse.

i just might start selling these things!!!!!!!
 

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very excited to see these instructions and how to do this when you get them up. so sick of that little yellow idiot button
 

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Discussion Starter #11
sorry for the delay. i will work on the write up before work this morning anf try to finish it if we get slow at work tonight
 

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i'm also interested in the finished product.
 

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what type of relay's are those, im probably gunna rob some from a old car ive got in the yard but does it matter if there for anything special? do they have different amperages behind them or anything like that? or just as long as they are at least a 4 pin. and with this on does the button still work to change the display from clock to odo to trip and rpms, or do you have to flip that switch to change the display?

good write up im defaintly pumped to go try put it on my bike, except ive got no wood left in my shop to heat it and its about -25C out without the windchill today lol
 

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Discussion Starter #20
what type of relay's are those, im probably gunna rob some from a old car ive got in the yard but does it matter if there for anything special? do they have different amperages behind them or anything like that? or just as long as they are at least a 4 pin. and with this on does the button still work to change the display from clock to odo to trip and rpms, or do you have to flip that switch to change the display?

good write up im defaintly pumped to go try put it on my bike, except ive got no wood left in my shop to heat it and its about -25C out without the windchill today lol
they are standard relays. i used 5 pin b/c that is what i had available, but any 4 pin will work. they wont draw 15 amps so you dont need anything special.

the button still works to change the display. the only time you need to turn the switch off it to get into diagnostic mode.
 
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