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Discussion Starter #1
I just installed a brand new Warn Provantage 3500 winch on my 570. After several tests with no load, I went ahead and installed a Warn front mount plow. Now when I hit the winch button, it resets the ECU and stalls the quad.

Quad runs great when not using the winch. I was able to raise it up, but it won't go back down.

I have the winch positive cable connected directly to the battery. The ground is connected to the ground terminals under the light pod (same post as wire coming directly from the battery). The 12v wire from the switch is connected to one of the 12v accessory lines under the light pod.

Any ideas? Now I'm stuck with my plow in the up position. I read on another forum that running the switch power lead directly to the battery may solve the problem. If so, then my winch would always be on. Not to excited about that, but if it is what I need to do.

I'm looking for suggestions.

Thanks,
Nick
 

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Normally all the wires are ran to the contactor unless warn is using a weird set up. Battery + and - on one side, winch motor on the other and the wires from the switch/remote are normally bullets or spade connectors. The contactor changes polarity accross the wires to change direction of the motor, thats why its important that all wires are ran to the contactor.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sorry, I guess I wasn't clear. My wires are run directly from the contactor to the battery and from the contactor to the winch per the instructions. I also connected the two bullet connectors for the switch at the contactor. I'm questioning the small 12v connector that comes off of the switch and is attached to an accessory line.

The voltage drop when the winch switch is hit seems to be causing the ECU to restart.

I'm sure others are running this type of winch on their ATV. I'm not sure how to deal with the voltage spike.
 

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Ok that's good, I was kind of worried that it was way off lol. The hot wire from the switch supplies a small amount of current to the switch so that it will only operate with the key on, it should not cause any major voltage drops. I would have your battery tested, might have a weak cell and when the winch kicks in and pulls the voltage below the low voltage cut of the efi/ecu.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I did a little more testing. You are right, the 12v lead to the switch doesn't make a difference. I ran it directly to the battery and had the exact same result.

I also ran the negative cable from the contactor directly to the battery and still had the same result.

Here is what is strange (and has me even more baffled). I had the negative battery cable disconnected, but still had the 12v lead for the switch hooked up and the positive cable running from the contactor to the battery. I hit the switch and it killed the bike again. This was without the negative cable connected. It almost sounds like something is going on with the contactor.

Here is one other issue - the plow is stuck in the up position and I can't get it back down. I am not able to rotate the switch on the side winch so that it will pull out manually. It appears to be stuck.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
One other thing I forgot to mention. One time when I tried to use the winch, there was an error code on the screen that said "LO 108". I only saw it that one time.
 

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Is the plow bound up, like maxed out all the way up? If you can lift the plow up some and disconnect the cable and the clutch still wont disengage then you may have a issue with the winch. If the winch is bound up one way or the other then when you hit the switch it basically a direct short and drawing a ton of current.

If you have a multi meter that can test continuity check between the neg post and the body of the contractor, Maybe is shorted internally because it should be dead with out the ground cable attached.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Unfortunately, the plow is now all the way up. It would go up for a second or two, but wouldn't go back out.

I think there is too much tension to get it to switch to freespool.

I may have to put a 2x4 under the blade to support it and pull the pin on the lift pulley. They I should have enough slack to pull the cable off the blade.
 

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Could try reversing the motor wires and see if it works that way, also test can test the switch wires at the contactor to see if its working correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Could try reversing the motor wires and see if it works that way, also test can test the switch wires at the contactor to see if its working correctly.
I will give that a try. My son and I went out to try to release the tension on the blade. I had a mini wooden pallet that fit under the blade snug so it couldn't come slamming down. I lifted up on the blade while my son tapped the pin out on the lifting pulley. This allowed me to lower the blade and release the tension on the line.

With the tension off of the line, I was able to switch the winch to free spool. When I pulled on the line, it was barely moving. Both my son and I had to pull on it together to get it to slowly come out. finally I realized that the black nylon sleeve that is on the synthetic line was bunched up behind the fairlead. I'm wondering if this is part of the problem. I pulled the sleeve out by hand and now the spool turns much more freely.

I also noticed that hitting the switch no longer overloads the system. I have the negative lead disconnected for now, so I will need to do some more testing. It is extremely cold out, so I decided to take a break for the night.

Thanks for the help. Additional comments always welcome. I'm crossing my fingers that this was the issue and not something else.
 

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That along with the artic cold we are getting in MI add up to hell on the charging system and battery. Honestly the batteries manufacturers are using are fine for starting but not much else, and the charging systems are a bit anemic to boot.

If you find the winch only work in one direction check the switch to make sure you are getting power at both the wire for forward and reverse direction. If that test good take the motor wires off the contactor and test the voltage, one way should be 12v+ and the other will be 12v-.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks. I will do that. Now that I can get the front off again, It will be a lot easier to do some testing.
 

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It's better to use a short plow rope when plowing. If you must use the full length rope that is on there, leave the chafe guard off. I've never used my chafe guard yet. It rides along in my rear bag. If I need it it's there.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
It's better to use a short plow rope when plowing. If you must use the full length rope that is on there, leave the chafe guard off. I've never used my chafe guard yet. It rides along in my rear bag. If I need it it's there.
Thanks. Is there a particular brand you recommend? It looks like the Warn plow lines are $40. I was hoping to find something a little more "disposable" for plowing.
 

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go to wal mart and get a boat trailer winch strap..its 2"in wide...20' long with a hook on end also...its 10.99..use that for plowing...works like a dream...save the rope for summer time...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
It's better to use a short plow rope when plowing. If you must use the full length rope that is on there, leave the chafe guard off. I've never used my chafe guard yet. It rides along in my rear bag. If I need it it's there.
Thanks. Is there a particular brand you recommend? It looks like the Warn plow lines are $40. I was hoping to find something a little more "disposable" for plowing.
Actually, it looks like Amazon has the Warn line for $27 and another brand for $18. I may check that one out. Might as well swap it while I have everything opened up.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
go to wal mart and get a boat trailer winch strap..its 2"in wide...20' long with a hook on end also...its 10.99..use that for plowing...works like a dream...save the rope for summer time...
Thanks al53. Saw your post after my last response. I will check that out.
 

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Could try reversing the motor wires and see if it works that way, also test can test the switch wires at the contactor to see if its working correctly.
I will give that a try. My son and I went out to try to release the tension on the blade. I had a mini wooden pallet that fit under the blade snug so it couldn't come slamming down. I lifted up on the blade while my son tapped the pin out on the lifting pulley. This allowed me to lower the blade and release the tension on the line.

With the tension off of the line, I was able to switch the winch to free spool. When I pulled on the line, it was barely moving. Both my son and I had to pull on it together to get it to slowly come out. finally I realized that the black nylon sleeve that is on the synthetic line was bunched up behind the fairlead. I'm wondering if this is part of the problem. I pulled the sleeve out by hand and now the spool turns much more freely.

I also noticed that hitting the switch no longer overloads the system. I have the negative lead disconnected for now, so I will need to do some more testing. It is extremely cold out, so I decided to take a break for the night.

Thanks for the help. Additional comments always welcome. I'm crossing my fingers that this was the issue and not something else.
Those sleeves are miserable POS. I would take it off for plowing season or it will get wet and freeze up. Had synthetic, and hated it. Now have switched back to steel cable. The synthetic is not abrasion resistant enough for my type of riding. I would rather replace the cable for $20 every year or two.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I haven't had time to do any additional testing due to work (plus it's too darn cold to work in the garage :)), but I have continued to to research potential causes of my winch issues. I have come up with 3 items that may be contributing to the problem. I thought I would document them here just in case it helps someone else.

  • Winch Load
    I think that the nylon sleeve being bound up in the reel was causing an excessive load on the battery. This would obviously cause a surge. Removing the nylon sleeve should eliminate this issue.

  • Battery Level
    I didn't realize how slowly an ATV re-charges the battery. Between the testing I did with the quad off and the low RPMs while I was plowing, the battery was not recharging to a full level. I think that once I actually began to use the plow, the battery was just too low.

  • Wiring
    The Warn winch came with enough wiring for a rear mounted battery. On the 570, everything is mounted at the front of the ATV. I only need a small length of cable, so I had to bundle up the extra wiring and zip tie it to the frame. I'm sure all of that extra wiring was causing resistance. I want to remove the excess wiring. I contacted Warn and they don't sell shorter cables, but they confirmed that it is a 6 gauge wire with a 1/4" ring terminal. I ordered some terminals today and will shorten the cable to eliminate the excess wire.
One other thing I need to change - the positive terminal on the winch is up against the frame of the ATV. I have a thick rubber boot over the cable and terminal, but I am worried that over time it will wear through. Warn said that on my particular model, I can remove two bolts on the end of the motor and rotate it 90 degrees. The terminal isn't currently making contact with the frame, but I thought I would note it just in case someone else has the issue.

I will keep this thread updated as I make changes and test them.
 
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