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Gonna put some new plugs in my 2014 800 and was wonderin if anyone has used the V Power plugs yet? Looking how they compare to the Iridium plugs.
 

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I will say this the champions I took out at 2,500 miles looked great. The reason I changed them was the chatter on the forums about Iridium's being better. That and a buddy said he could smell fuel will riding behind me. Idk I never noticed it and after switching to the NGK's no more gas smell complaints.
 

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I will say this the champions I took out at 2,500 miles looked great. The reason I changed them was the chatter on the forums about Iridium's being better. That and a buddy said he could smell fuel will riding behind me. Idk I never noticed it and after switching to the NGK's no more gas smell complaints.
Thats exactly the reason I was thinking bout switching them. Also maybe a lil smoother idling? I do this everytime I buy something used I change it out so its set for me and I know whats been changed etc. I was all set to order Iridum till I seen the V Power by NGK, sounds like could be a bit better plug? Do you recall the number of the plugs you got?
 

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They were iridium IX. Only pic I have.
 

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I had a bad experience with Champion plugs and have shunned them ever since - a simple problem really, but frustrating and totally disappointing.

Many years ago I was prepping my 72 Triumph 650 Bonneville motorcycle for winter storage. I had mixed a little 2 stroke oil with the gas and rode it about 5 miles to get the gas/oil mix distributed throughout the system. I then changed the oil (no oil filter on the Bonnie), installed new Champion spark plugs, drained fuel tank, started the engine and ran till the carbs ran out of gas( prevents gumming up from stale fuel) and removed the battery. I put the bike in my basement (controlled climate) and forgot about it.

Come spring and I'm getting the itch to ride. I take the battery out of the refrigerator, charge it and install it into the bike. I put about a gallon of fresh high octane gas in the tank, turn on the petcocks, tickle (flood) the carbs (serves as a choke on older bikes) and turn on the key switch. The oil pressure light comes on and is bright and steady. I start kicking the engine over. The problem rears it's ugly head - the engine will not start........... It does not backfire, cough, sneeze or give any indication of trying to start, so I commence to trouble shooting.

I take the plugs out and look at them - they only ran long enough to run the carbs dry - I check the compression (good), I lay the plugs (attached to the plug wires) on the head and check for spark - good strong spark - I lift a plug away from the head while kicking - it throws a spark from the plug to the head up to about inch. Nothing wrong with the ignition system! I put the plugs back in a commence to kicking. Nothing! I take the plugs back out to check for flooding - they do not appear wet. With the plugs laying on the head next to the spark plug hole, I again check for spark. The plug on the left side is close enough to the spark plug hole that when it sparks, it ignites the mixture being pushed out of the plug hole. WOOSH! so I know it has an ignitable mixture!

I put the plugs back in and after about a minute of kicking with no hint of life, I resort to ether - still nothing. A friend comes over and watches while talking about going riding and finally asks what's wrong with it? He knows it has always been a easy starter and stone reliable, so I give him the rundown. He dumbly asks if I tried new spark plugs - I explain to him they are new spark plugs - just run long enough to run the carbs dry. He comments, then they are are not new, they are used.

Just to prove him wrong, I take the NGK plugs out of my Kawasaki KZ400, just run them in finger tight because I knew it would not start and I would be putting them back in the KAW. I climbed on, turned on the key and was pushing the kick starter to get the engine on TDC for a full stroke kick. Just as the engine went over TDC, it lit and sat there and idled. I couldn't believe it. I shut it off, put the Champions back in and kicked for about ten strokes - dead. I put the NGK's in and tightened them . We went riding and I rode all year on those plugs. I have not used Champion plugs since then.

A few years later Champion introduced "Copper Plus" spark plugs. It was then I delved into spark plug construction. I found Champion used a steel core while NGK used a copper core. Champion's new Copper Plus was a higher priced 'Premium' spark plug - it featured a copper plated steel core for improved performance and longer life. Why pay for a copper plated steel core when I could get a solid copper core for no additional cost. I actually prefer Nippon Denso spark plugs, but they are harder to find, so I use NGK.
 

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Hey guys new to the forum, and new polaris owner. after i purchased my 850 xp i did a lot of lurking online and on this forum. learned alot!

so this is what i know from my little experience with my machine. had only 265 miles when i purchased it. it had original plugs, had k&n filter, but i soon replaced that with stock, as i read here guys had bad experience with dust blow by. already bought and fixed the Breather with 2012 parts, no oil in air box.

I now have 330 miles on it now. Changed to the NGK when i got it so mostly with NGK 6043 or ILZKAR7A10 plugs. I did change out to new set of CHAMPION REA8MCX for a few rides and plowing to see the difference and i did notice with the Champions in the machine it seamed to want to stall out more often when it would idil while i changed the angle of the plow or just idiling. Then i put a new fresh set of NGK's back in and it seams to run so much smoother and a little more power. But i know small sample size, i mostly ride around my lake, Plowing and dear stand running. I like the NGK's alot better.
 

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Well to your point what ever the NGK's do better then the Champions was proven on the 2009-2012 850's!!!!!
 

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Latebird, I got to ask
"I take the battery out of the refrigerator,"
Do you know something about battery storage that I dont?
I store mine in the basement on a block of wood-not on the bare concrete floor as far away from the furnace and pilot lights as possible.
Interesting note-I had a gas monitor in the basement on the charger near the battery and when I turned it on the H2S alarm went off???? The battery off gassing I gues.
 

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@303British: Latebird, I got to ask
"I take the battery out of the refrigerator,"
Do you know something about battery storage that I dont?
I store mine in the basement on a block of wood-not on the bare concrete floor as far away from the furnace and pilot lights as possible.
Interesting note-I had a gas monitor in the basement on the charger near the battery and when I turned it on the H2S alarm went off???? The battery off gassing I gues.

Here's what I have been told or instructed about lead acid batteries:

First - a myth dispelled - in 2003 I spoke to Yuasa representatives at the Dealer Expo - I received this email shortly after the Expo:


********@yuasainc.com>

Thu 2/20/2003 4:23 AM

Dear Steve,

Thank you for stopping by the Yuasa booth at the 2003 Dealer Expo.

It is my understanding that you were looking for information on keeping your "battery off the floor". I have copied some information regarding your question that is on our website. I hope this clarifies any misunderstanding that you may have had regarding keeping batteries on the ground or concrete. If we can be of further assistance please feel free to contact us.

Your question: I was told by some old timers that if you leave a battery on the ground or a concrete floor it will ruin the battery. Is this true?

Our answer: That is something a lot of "old timers" say. The reason they say that is in the "olden days" vehicle starting batteries used to be made with a hard rubber container. This hard rubber would eventually get mini cracks and become porous. So, when placing a battery on the ground or concrete, the battery would discharge through the ground or wet concrete. Nowadays, containers are made from a solid plastic that does not allow any current to flow through it, so the batteries do not discharge, even if they sit in a few inches of water. That is why you will not find your battery having trouble from sitting on the ground or concrete.

Kathleen
Yuasa Battery, Inc.

Now you know that storing a battery on concrete will not harm it.

Second - this information is gleaned from various battery manufacturer's literature:

Although time is eventually the enemy of most batteries, there are a couple tricks you can use to extend the shelf life of your batteries. The first (and simplest) method you can try is to store your batteries at a cool temperature. By storing your batteries at 50 degrees Fahrenheit or less, you can slow the aging process. Batteries discharge at a slower rate when cold (hence harder starting in cold weather). Storing a battery in a refrigerator (most are set at about 45 degrees F) will extend it's life, but it still needs to be charged about every 30 days. Two big enemies of batteries is extreme cold and high heat. Batteries perform best and last longest when their temperature is stable. Sometimes it's just not practical or possible to maintain a stable environment for the battery.

Another way to extend battery shelf life is to use a battery maintainer to keep the power level as consistent as possible.

If properly stored and maintained, most sealed lead acid batteries can sit on a shelf for about three years and should be expected to perform adequately for about another three years after they鈥檙e put into use.

A battery only requires a little monthly maintenance to perform perfectly. Keep the battery charged to 100%, the battery hasn鈥檛 been used in more than two weeks.

Follow this simple battery storage check list once a month:

Conventional Batteries left in vehicle:
Check a minimum of once per month
Check electrolyte level (refill ONLY with distilled water)
Keep top of battery clean
Check cables, clamps, and case for obvious damage or loose connections
Clean terminals and connectors as necessary
Make sure the exhaust tube is free of kinks and clogs
Replace caps firmly (finger-tight only)
Recharge battery if voltage is below 12.48V or if the starter turns slower than usual when starting the engine
It is normal for the fluid levels to drop periodically during normal use, so it is CRITICAL that electrolyte level is checked regularly and topped off to the upper level line with distilled water.
Low electrolyte levels can result in permanent damage to the battery

AGM Batteries left in vehicle:
Check voltage every 3 months (or more frequently if stored at higher temperatures as high temperatures cause higher self-discharge rates)
Keep top of battery clean
Check cables, clamps, and case for obvious damage or loose connections
Clean terminals and connectors as necessary
Recharge battery if voltage is below 12.4V.
Once activated, the battery is permanently sealed and must never be opened. There is no need to add water to AGM batteries. Adding water to AGM batteries will result in irreparable damage to the battery or the vehicle.

What is the normal charge rate for a motorcycle or ATV battery?
Naturally, batteries of different capacities require different charge rates. Generally, a battery should be charged at a slow charge rate of 1/10 its given 10 hr. capacity (not to be confused with CCA). Generally a charge rate of 1.25 amps or less is preferred. For certain batteries a maximum 750 milliamp (3/4 amp) charge is required. Charging at a lower rate will never harm the battery, it just takes longer.

While the maintainer manufacturers claim you can leave their product connected indefinitely, it is not recommended. A true maintainer has an initial charge rate of no more than 1.25 amps - when the battery reaches 80% the charge rate is reduced to about 1/4 amp - when the battery is fully charged, the maintainer will shut down to 1/10 amp - if battery voltage falls, the true maintainer will turn back on and repeat the charge cycle. Now a continuous 1/10 amp charge can, over a long period, damage a motorcycle or ATV battery. I circumvent this problem by plugging the maintainer into a timer. The timer turns the maintainer on for 4 hours each day. I periodically check the battery to assure it is reaching a full charge before the timer turns off.

Some people incorrectly refer to a 'TRICKLE CHARGER" as a 'TENDER'. A trickle charger may charge at 3/4 to 2 amps continuously. Trickle chargers will damage the battery if left unattended and connected. Again, an outlet timer will aid in keeping the battery charged without damage.

Third - can a battery continue to charge after the charger is disconnected?

Short answer is yes - long answer is the battery can continue to charge, increase it's charge rate and possibly result in the battery burning up or exploding.

Thermal runaway is the rapid uncontrolled increase in temperature, when the rate of internal heat generation exceeds the rate at which the heat can be expelled. The cells in a battery pack are generally close to one another, and if thermal runaway is not detected, damage to the battery as well as nearby objects may occur. Thermal runaway in one cell can start a chain reaction that spreads to surrounding cells increasing damage.

Thermal runaway occurs most frequently in valve regulated lead acid batteries, but it can also happen in VLA batteries. Thermal runaway is not a 鈥渟udden occurrence鈥 as it may seem. There are a few warning signs which include an increase in cell temperature and an increase in charge current.

Over-temperature in a storage battery is a potentially serious condition. Operating the battery in higher temperatures than specified can seriously shorten its life. Every 10掳C above 25掳C reduces the service life of the battery by 50%. To compensate and minimize the risk, the charging voltage and current must be properly limited.

Thermal runaway can also be caused by either a fault condition within the battery such as a ground fault or localized heating, such as sunlight, on a portion of the battery, of which can lead to higher current draw.

Fourth - safety

Any device that stores energy can be dangerous. There is a lot of explosive power in a gallon of gasoline, but when handled with some knowledge its use can be made relatively safe. Batteries are no different in that with the proper precautions and safety practices, they can be handled in a safe manner. Working with batteries poses two hazards: potentially explosive gases that are given off during discharging and charging, and sulfuric acid, which is highly corrosive. The following safety recommendations should be followed:

No smoking, sparks (from static electricity or other sources) or open flames around or near batteries
Batteries can produce hydrogen gas that is highly flammable when combined with oxygen; if these gases ignite the battery case can rupture or explode. If a battery feels hot to the touch during charging, stop charging and allow it to cool before resuming. Excessive heat damages the plates, and a battery case that鈥檚 too hot during charging can rupture

I presume the battery you were charging was a conventional vented battery? A sealed AGM battery would not have set off the detector.

Finally - can a motorcycle or ATV battery be charged with a car battery and is there any danger?

Yes - a larger battery can be used to charge a smaller battery.

When a large capacity battery of the same voltage is connected in parallel (pos to pos / neg to neg) to a smaller battery, the two batteries will try to stabilize each other at the same voltage. If the ATV battery is discharged to let's say 9 volts and is connected to a fully charged car battery, the car battery will try to increase the ATV battery voltage to the same voltage as the car battery and the ATV battery will try to discharge the car battery to it's voltage. The larger battery will discharge less than the ATV battery will charge, however there is no regulation of the current and thermal runaway may occur if not monitored or limited in the time of connection. It's kinda like comparing a 5 gallon bucket to a drinking glass. If the bucket is full, you can fill the glass from the bucket and the bucket can still be considered full. You can fill the bucket with the glass, but the glass has to be refilled (recharged) many times from a larger supply. If the glass is being filled by tipping the bucket to fill the glass, the glass will overflow until the bucket is empty or at the least has the same amount of water as the glass has in it.

When I studied electricity, the instructors would compare electricity to water. Voltage is pressure and amperage is flow.

Lately I have a preference for lithium batteries. They are lighter, won't leak, can be used in any position, have higher output, are less affected by cold and heat and generally last longer than lead acid batteries, but require a maintainer charger designed for use with lithium batteries.

Sorry for the extended reply. I don't know it all - the people who design, manufacture and dissect batteries know volumes more than me. I'm just sharing what knowledge my little brain can retain. If this does not answer all your questions, just ask me - I will be glad to share that which I have been taught and or experienced.
 
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