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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 04 Polaris scrambler 500 4x4 the issue im having is it has no power like lights/indicators/clicks from solenoid i have jumped the solenoid the fuseable links are good, ive replaced the LHCA and the keyswitch still nothing and ive tested the cdi im pretty sure its the ecm but im not sure how to test it i have a nice expensive multimeter to test it
154747
 

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If this is the original ecm it may be covered { no charge } under the recall , check with polaris to see if yours is included under the recall .
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If this is the original ecm it may be covered { no charge } under the recall , check with polaris to see if yours is included under the recall .
Sadly its not and I ended up just messing with it and finding out how to test it turns out some of the circuit breaker’s are blown from a battery being hooked up wrong
 

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You can't test the ECM per se, but you can test the output voltages to determine if it's the problem

This is the unit
154756


This is the internal circuitry
154755


This is the inputs to and outputs of the unit
154757


With this knowledge, you can temporarily bypass part of the unit to test other functions.

This is the plug on the ECM
154758


Temporarily jump between the red and orange wires with a 20A fused jumper or a single strand of copper wire from a lamp cord - this should allow you to power up the quad - if this works, replace the ECM - if it does not work, I'll guide you to the next step of the diagnosis.
 

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Sadly its not and I ended up just messing with it and finding out how to test it turns out some of the circuit breaker’s are blown from a battery being hooked up wrong
Hooking up a battery backwards will not damage it
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hooking up a battery backwards will not damage it
Yeah it blew a circuit breaker inside of it ive tested everything else and it’s definitely the ecm that’s causing no power or spark was told that someone hooked the battery up wrong and white smoke came from the front plastic cover
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You can't test the ECM per se, but you can test the output voltages to determine if it's the problem

This is the unit
View attachment 154756

This is the internal circuitry
View attachment 154755

This is the inputs to and outputs of the unit
View attachment 154757

With this knowledge, you can temporarily bypass part of the unit to test other functions.

This is the plug on the ECM
View attachment 154758

Temporarily jump between the red and orange wires with a 20A fused jumper or a single strand of copper wire from a lamp cord - this should allow you to power up the quad - if this works, replace the ECM - if it does not work, I'll guide you to the next step of the diagnosis.
Wich wires do i jump ? Theres a bunch of red and orange wires
 

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At the ECM plug - either red to either orange

The orange when hot (when the ECM is functional) goes to the key switch - when the switch is on it connects power to the red/blk wire - when the LH switch is in the RUN position it connects power to the red/wht and red/wht supplies power to the chassis.

To "hot wire" the machine go from the pos side of the battery to the red/wht at the key switch and it should start and run.
 

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The two orange wires , pins A & B , are the output for the bike , put a jumper { with a inline circuit breaker or fuse } from the battery positive to the both the orange wires .
 

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The two orange wires , pins A & B , are the output for the bike , put a jumper { with a inline circuit breaker or fuse } from the battery positive to the both the orange wires .
Both orange wires terminate at pin D of the key switch, so it makes no difference which orange wire is jumped to battery +
154786
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
At the ECM plug - either red to either orange

The orange when hot (when the ECM is functional) goes to the key switch - when the switch is on it connects power to the red/blk wire - when the LH switch is in the RUN position it connects power to the red/wht and red/wht supplies power to the chassis.

To "hot wire" the machine go from the pos side of the battery to the red/wht at the key switch and it should start and run.
I got it running ended up hooking all them up to a fuse block i rode it around the yard does the plug have to be in for the stator to charge the battery or is my stator just bad
 

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Actually not - cost more to run two wires than one - it is a redundant back up - if one wire breaks then the other one is gauge wire

The plug with the red and brown wire has to be connected or there is no connection to to the battery even if the stator is fine (and it probably is), but the unit is responsible for controlling the hot lamp, fan and accessories also.

Now you have proven the unit faulty - install a new one and ride on
 

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If they ran two wires for redundancy wouldn't they have run parallel wires for the the rest of the circuit ? Two # 16 wires are cheaper than one #10 wire ....
 

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They did - 2 org (connect to red/blk) - two red/blk (connect to red/wht) - two red/wht (red/wht supplies the entire chassis) and through the key switch connects to one wht/red control wire to close the solenoid when the key is turned to the start position.

Hell, I don't know what drove the engineers to parallel only the supply wires other than the fact that two 16ga wires in parallel are more flexible than one 10ga wire and will carry approx. the same current.
 
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