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Discussion Starter #1
No power at key
Was idling it died
Last time I wasted money bought a new Battery. It ended up being a Main fuse fried.
Kept the new battery from 2 months ago.
Between this I learned to adjust the throttle
Cable so it idle ok
Was idling and quit
Changed all the fuses. Plus boosted it and that’s all good power
But still nothing
Where do I look next 😔
 

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Instead of adjusting the throttle cable to adjust the idle, why not just turn the idle speed screw on the carb?

Electrical - there are 3 red wires attached to the battery + side of the starter solenoid; one goes to a circuit breaker - from there to the fan relay - one goes directly to the rec/reg and one goes to the fuse block where it splits feeding a 20A and 5 amp fuse (the service manual does not identify what circuit the fuse protects) - after studying the wiring diagram, #1 fuse is ACCESSORYS - #2 is MAIN/IGNITION - #3 is LIGHTS - #4 is SPEEDO
136765

So red wire #88 splits to wire #94 and feeds the #2 and #4 fuse - from this point red wire #45 and yellow wire #27 are hot. The red wire #45 goes to pin 1 of the speedometer and the yellow wire #27 goes to the key switch.

Test for power on the yellow wire at the key switch - if the yel wire is hot, turn the switch on and check for power on the red/blk wire at the LH handlebar switch - if there is power on the red/blk wire, put the handlebar switch into the run position and check for power on the red/wht wire.

The red/wht wire splits into 10 wires (all the same color) - the wire from the handlebar switch goes to a junction (#1) where it splits 4 times - one (#1) goes to pin 2 of the speedometer, one (#2) goes to the AWD switch in the throttle housing, one (#3) goes to the key switch and one (#4) goes to junction #2 - at junction #2 it splits 4 more times - one (#1) goes to the fan relay (relay closes when the red/wht wire becomes hot), one (#2) goes to the #1 20A fuse in the fuse block (when power passes through the #1 fuse, it becomes an orange white wire - the org/wht wire goes to a junction where it splits into 3 wires - FYI the org/wht wires are accessory wires that dead end in various places for hand warmers etc.) - one red/wht goes to the CDI unit, one (#3) goes to #3 15 amp fuse where it passes through the fuse and becomes a red/yel wire (red/yel goes to a junction and splits into 3 more red/yel wires - one goes to the left tail light, one goes to the right tail light and one goes to the LH handlebar switch to feed the headlight hi/lo switch) - one (#4) goes to the CDI unit.

Now what makes you think there is no power at the key switch? Have you tested for 12v+ on the yellow wire at the key switch?
 
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