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Anyone know much about the reusable stainless steel oil filters?

I have a 2007 Predator 500 and a 2006 LTZ440 and tired of going through oil filters every other week. I change the oil and filters every 20 hours of riding or so. Needless to say, buying new filters all the time is expensive.

I have also heard reports of the reusable filters do a better job of catching particles and has a better flow than paper.

Thoughts?
 

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I just saw this on the duramax forum. First let me say depending on your application, AMSOIL may offer a better filter than what you are using. We offer the EA oil filters that trap 98.7% of physical contaminants down to 15 microns. That is nearly absolute and that is almost 2X smaller than a human hair. They are good for EOM recommended drains which for the polaris is every 6 months or so.

The filter you are asking about I am not sure of the exact filter capability. It is supposed to wash up with soap n water but I don't think I want to take a chance of contaminating the engine with water to try n save a few bucks. Plus I personally am not convinced you can completely clean them to a state of being new again.

If I can get you some information about AMSOIL products, please PM me.

Take care,
 

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I have had the reusable SS filter on my Harley Sportster for over 100,000 miles and still running strong. I upgraded from a 1200cc to 1250cc bore 3 years ago and the cylinders were good. Nice and shiny inside with no scratch or grooves in them. I know this is an ATV forum but if it works on the bike it should work on the quad. It filters down to 5 microns on each pass wear stock filter will filter out 5 microns on every 4th pass so you need the oil to go through the system 4 times with a stock filter as to just once with the removeable one.
You don't use soap and water to clean them out. I guess you could but that's not the easy way to do it. You use carb cleaner or if you have a parts cleaner you use that to clean the oil off if it then you use compressed air to blow it clean from the inside outward which will blow out any particles and dry off the filter as well.
 

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My old 1950 flat head Ford V8 with cast iron pistons when over 100,000 and it had a by-pass filter - the oil was essentially unfiltered, but a portion of the oil was pumped through the filter housing where the heavier larger particles settled to the bottom and the smaller particles were collected by the filter. If you change your oil frequently a filter is not needed. As an experiment, I purchased a 1988 Ford Thunderbird with a 302 V8 - ran it 144,000 miles changing the oil every 2500 miles - I changed the oil filter one time after break-in (at 2000 miles) and didn't change the filter again for 142,000 miles - in 1998 I traded the car for a 97 T-Bird with the 4.6L V-8 - the guy who got the 88 began changint the oil and filter every 5000 miles - at about 210,000 miles the rusted hulk was hit by a drunk driver and towed to the scrap yard - the 97 4.6 got the oil and filter changed every 3000 miles and in 2012 with 114,000 miles the engine blew a head gasket and was scrapped - it was replaced in 2013 with a 2004 Mercury Grand Marquis with 30,000 miles - now after 7 years it has 49,000 miles, the oil and filter is replaced every 3000 miles and my be the last car I ever buy.

But......... While the washable micro-screen filters will definitely last longer, they do not filter as well - the finest micro-screen filter is 5 micron but, the absolute micron rating is 8 and the nominal micron rating is 2.

A micron is a unit of measure in the metric system equal to 1 millionth of a meter in length. For perspective – The average cross-section of a human hair is approximately 50 microns.

Nominal Micron Rating expresses the ability of the filter to capture particles of a specified size in microns at an efficiency of 50%. A nominal rating of 50% at 10 microns simply means that a filter captures 50% of contaminants 10 microns in size. The statement of this efficiency is important to understanding the performance capability of the filter.

Absolute Micron Rating describes filter performance that is capable of removing at least 98.7% of a specific size particle. This rating is determined through a standard test in which oil containing measurable particles is passed through the filter. Particles that pass through are measured and counted. This rating is more informative than the nominal micron rating. Again, the particle size and efficiency must be stated.

The typical automotive and motorcycle oil filter is rated at 25 to 30 micron - the micro-screen washable filter has a typical micron rating of about 50.

For that reason, I prefer the paper filter, but if flow is an important consideration (high viscosity oil at low temperatures creates a flow consideration) - 60w Harley oil at 40 degrees could cause a paper filter to collapse or the bypass valve to open, but 10w40 oil at zero degrees has less resistance to flow than 60w at 40 degrees.

Polaris specifies 5w50 oil which will not harm a 20 micron filter at -30 degrees F.

It's all personal choice - use whatever damn filter you prefer or is available or no filter at all - with good clean oil the engine will never know the difference.
 

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Yep ^^^ If you're gonna change the oil that often, I would only change the filter every second or third oil change.
 

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I used Scotts stainless filters in my dirt bikes and old Honda rancher. They are good filters but not cheap. I sold my 2007 yz250f two months ago and had the same Scotts filter since 2007.
 

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I run a reusable filter on my dragster...it catches the big chunks and a surprising amount of debris, but I change the oil often and it gets new bearings at a minimum every season......for what we do with an atv, I think a quality standard filter with synthetic media is the best choice...followed by a QUALITY (not fram!) paper filter...

I say that even though I'm a huge fan of reusable ones...
 
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