Polaris ATV Forum banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys looking for some help or advice. I own a sportsman 1000 and my last ride I got a overvolts 17+ so naturally I figured the voltage regulator is pooched , so I replaced it and got about half hour ride and overvolts came up again. I also noticed my coolant bottle was empty. Could it be coolant in my stator housing ?? I don’t want to put a new stator in to have it blow another one . Would Appreciate some help thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
I’m not savy at all with electrical but I did do a ohms test. When I disconnect my stator plug I put one end of the multimeter in one of the windings and the other on the frame I’m getting a reading of 1.1 ohms , this should not be happening correct ? My stator is grounding out ?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,527 Posts
Sounds like you have a problem....You should have a connection between any 2 of the 3 winding wires (yellow) and no continuity between any of them and ground. So the test you describe should have been an open circuit with no reading on your ohm meter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,857 Posts
Sounds like a shorted stator and under certain conditions a stator shorted to ground can back feed AC voltage to the battery displaying as over voltage - put the meter on AC and check across the battery with the engine running - my digital meter reads random voltages on AC when connected to DC - but if there is an AC voltage present, the reading is steady and will increase with engine RPM (unless the short to ground is momentary - sometimes only grounds when the engine is running sometimes only when the engine is stopped and sometimes only at a certain RPM)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys , never had a stator go bad on any xp’s that I’ve owned. Also I will try that test you said latebird. Is there a good chance the two voltage regulators I bought are still good ? I was going to order a stator and another VR from rm stator but debating if I should just buy the stator
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,857 Posts
Rectifiers are easy to check with a continuity tester - they conduct one way but not the other

Connect a continuity tester (diode or ohms scale) connect one meter lead to the battery positive wire and touch each of the three wires of the same color switch the meter leads and check again - you should get continuity one way and the resistances should be relatively close - now connect one meter lead to the ground wire and check to each of the three stator wires - the result should be the same only opposite of the first check - in other words, if you got continuity with the red lead connected to the battery lead, you should get continuity with the black lead connected to ground (I have to put it this way because current flows negative to positive and meter leads are not necessarily red + and black -. Some meters are red - and black +, you have to know your meter. The final test is to connect one meter lead to the battery wire and the other to the ground wire, then switch them - again you should measure continuity in one direction only, but the resistance reading will be appx. double of checking a single lead to each stator wire. If it passes this test, the next test is to check the regulator - that has to be done with a fully charged battery and the charging system connected - with the engine running at about 2500 to 3000 RPM, lights and all accessories turned off, you should see battery voltage climb to 14.8 volts then drop to about 13.2 and climb again to 14.8 then drop to 13.2 - this is the VR cutting in and out to keep the battery fully charged.

Keep in mind, the charging system is not designed to 'charge', but to maintain a charge - the output of the alternator has to be sufficient to supply all the electrical equipment and have enough left over to charge the battery. It's not the output voltage that's important, but the current (amps). Current rises as voltage drops. Current creates heat as it passes through a resistive load. That is what makes light bulbs hot, but increased resistance means you need more voltage to maintain the current flow. As a battery degrades, it's internal resistance goes up. The charging system produces the same energy and if the battery is resisting charging, the current has to be absorbed by other devices. That's one reason if you have a dead battery and try to charge it with the on board charging system, you can burn out lights and other things.

Most old Polaris's could be run without a battery, but if you tried to use the lights, winch or other accessories, they would burn out or be permanently damaged or simply not work at an acceptable level.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Hey thanks latebird , I did your tests and it failed everyone of them. The stator is grounding out and I’m assuming that is why it keeps blowing VR’s ?? I’m going to buy a new stator and VR and want to know if there’s any other reason the stator would ground out before I put everything back together just to have it happen again. I noticed no coolant in the bottle , could coolant be getting in the stator housing or anything else I should look into ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Hey just a update for anyone who has the same problem. Just as I thought ! Turns out when I took my stator cover off, coolant poured out. Lots of coolant in there which fried my stator which fried 3 voltage regulators thinking the VR was the problem. Do yourself a favour and If you get a overvolts code, check that the stator is not grounded ! I now have to replace the stator , gaskets water pump seals/bearings and of coarse another regulator. Between all the big money problems with my wife’s 850’s and my 1k over the years Polaris ......I’m done. Last chunk of change you get from me
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,094 Posts
Hey just a update for anyone who has the same problem. Just as I thought ! Turns out when I took my stator cover off, coolant poured out. Lots of coolant in there which fried my stator which fried 3 voltage regulators thinking the VR was the problem. Do yourself a favour and If you get a overvolts code, check that the stator is not grounded ! I now have to replace the stator , gaskets water pump seals/bearings and of coarse another regulator. Between all the big money problems with my wife’s 850’s and my 1k over the years Polaris ......I’m done. Last chunk of change you get from me
unfortunately Polaris don't make them like they used too . !! It Is very frustrating at times.
I hear bad things from Cam Am too tho.
What issues did u have with the 850 ??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Between the 3 850xp’s and scrambler1k and sportsman 1k I have had oil in the air box , been through 3-4 power steering boxes recently I tried super atv EZ steer over oem . Blew a front diff because of the weak pinion cover, which I now replace all of them before I ride, have to constantly align clutches on the 1k. Had a 850 motor blow because the famous glued on timing gear that spun, leaking cvt backing plates , exhaust almost started a fire on the 1k melted everything which is also a known problem. Fuel pump went and about 4-5 starters on the 850’s in total. Both 850’s and 1k had a problem with not starting when you turn the key ( had to jump the starter), 1 Voltage reg on the 850 and now the VR /stator and water pump seal on the 1k . Bushings and bearings are garbage on these quads . Trust me I’m missing more just can’t think of it at the moment .most have been electrical issues that can be hard to trace. Some problems are minor I know , but it all added up to never buying one again . Your right they don’t make them like they used to
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,094 Posts
Between the 3 850xp’s and scrambler1k and sportsman 1k I have had oil in the air box , been through 3-4 power steering boxes recently I tried super atv EZ steer over oem . Blew a front diff because of the weak pinion cover, which I now replace all of them before I ride, have to constantly align clutches on the 1k. Had a 850 motor blow because the famous glued on timing gear that spun, leaking cvt backing plates , exhaust almost started a fire on the 1k melted everything which is also a known problem. Fuel pump went and about 4-5 starters on the 850’s in total. Both 850’s and 1k had a problem with not starting when you turn the key ( had to jump the starter), 1 Voltage reg on the 850 and now the VR /stator and water pump seal on the 1k . Bushings and bearings are garbage on these quads . Trust me I’m missing more just can’t think of it at the moment .most have been electrical issues that can be hard to trace. Some problems are minor I know , but it all added up to never buying one again . Your right they don’t make them like they used to
I don't blame you for hating Popo than , lol
what are u gonna buy next , Yammies, ??
since new i've had play in my rear wheels, changed bearings, bought JC Capri bushings, put it back together,,still a little play !! i guess they don't use micrometers and vernier calipers anymore when they build parts,
hubs are inexpensive but i'm not sure that's where the rear wheel play is from, was your scrambler the same ??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Yes they’re all the same , almost seems like the big bushing holes on the rear hub get bored out , they have plain in them even with new bushings
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top