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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Guys,
So I ordered a Warn Provantage 60" mid mount plow. It should arrive tomorrow.

I will be plowing paved driveways and I was wondering how to properly setup the skids and wear bar height. Does the wear bar have to be slightly higher than the pavement or can I have the bar scraping the ground so that it completely clears all the snow?

Thanks
 

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First if the majority of the plowing is of paved surfaces, get rid of the skid shoes. Replace the steel ware bar with a synthetic as soon as possible. I use the Falline ware bar costs about 70 bucks does a great job. I will get two seasons out of each edge. Then just flip it over. It also eliminates the noise of a steel bar which can be extremely loud. Yes you put the plow on the ground.





FallLine Corporation | Specialists in Urethane Technology and Manufacturer and Distributor of Custom Molded Products and Ski, Construction, Snow Removal, and Sports Recreation Industry Products
 

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Why get rid of the skids and wear bar? I have my skids set up so the plow sits about 1/8'' above the ground and the weight of the snow will push the blade down to scrape the driveway..
 

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Why get rid of the skids and wear bar? I have my skids set up so the plow sits about 1/8'' above the ground and the weight of the snow will push the blade down to scrape the driveway..
I agree totally...Keep the skids! They are the cheapest part to replace. The blade should not ever touch the ground.


Thanks,

Will
2012 Sportsman 400HO.
 

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Why get rid of the skids and wear bar? I have my skids set up so the plow sits about 1/8'' above the ground and the weight of the snow will push the blade down to scrape the driveway..
I agree totally...Keep the skids! They are the cheapest part to replace. The blade should not ever touch the ground.


Thanks,

Will
2012 Sportsman 400HO.
I'll endorse these two statements..... 1/8" and Pads are the cheapest parts in the equation to replace!!

Use a paint stir stick (1/8"+ thick) to set pad height. Set it under the blade and than adjust pads down to the ground.

On gravel/crushed asphalt I set mine at 1/4" after initial snow pack/freeze.
 

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The purpose of the synthetic bar is to eliminate any steel from ever touching the surface. If you do not mind replacing the steel bar, the skid shoes, scratching up your drive way and sidewalks, you and your neighbors listening to all that noise. The by all means, keep your skid shoes and steel ware bar.

Or, just eliminate all that crap and use a synthetic bar, drop it right on the surface and clean it the right way. I will get about four seasons out of one FallLine synthetic bars, cost 70 dollars. That's about 18 bucks a year. The best part is no noise, no rusty shoes scratching up the drive and leaving rust stains and no need to adjust anything. Did I mention there is no noise.

Here is what you do iroc. When you get your new plow. Wet down your drive and push the new plow around for a while. If you can live with the noise, vibration and the marks left by the plow then keep the steel parts.
 

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They are not that noisy, unless they are work beyond return, in which case, they should be replaced.
Do you use an electric atv to push the plow?


Have not seen a snow plow or blower yet that has deleted skids, they are put on for a purpose.


My driveway is 400+ feet of gravel, no way it will ever get scraped/blown without skids.


Thanks,

Will
2012 Sportsman 400HO.
 

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Do you use an electric atv to push the plow?

Will
2012 Sportsman 400HO.
:lmao: Sorry, that right there is funny and a good point..... the sound of a plow isn't much worse than the purr of a quad at "dark-thiry o'clock"!!! All depends on what noises and pitches you don't like or can't listen too. Like nails on a chaulk board may bother you, but not (me) or the next guy!!
 

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They are not that noisy, unless they are work beyond return, in which case, they should be replaced.
Do you use an electric atv to push the plow?


Have not seen a snow plow or blower yet that has deleted skids, they are put on for a purpose.


My driveway is 400+ feet of gravel, no way it will ever get scraped/blown without skids.


Thanks,

Will
2012 Sportsman 400HO.
Well gravel is a different story now isn't it. The OP is talking about paved surfaces as was I. Skids on a blower is also a different story, there to prevent you from grinding the auger box. Ever look at the big commercial plows or ever used one??? I have, stopped using steel about 10 years ago. My point is that the technology has evolved past the steel ware bars and skids. If you need to plow gravel then use your skids, however I still recommend dumping the steel ware bar.
 

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They are not that noisy, unless they are work beyond return, in which case, they should be replaced.
Do you use an electric atv to push the plow?


Have not seen a snow plow or blower yet that has deleted skids, they are put on for a purpose.


My driveway is 400+ feet of gravel, no way it will ever get scraped/blown without skids.


Thanks,

Will
2012 Sportsman 400HO.
Well gravel is a different story now isn't it. The OP is talking about paved surfaces as was I. Skids on a blower is also a different story, there to prevent you from grinding the auger box. Ever look at the big commercial plows or ever used one??? I have, stopped using steel about 10 years ago. My point is that the technology has evolved past the steel ware bars and skids. If you need to plow gravel then use your skids, however I still recommend dumping the steel ware bar.
Have not seen any plow or blower on any surface that has the skids deleted. Leaving a small cushion of snow will not hurt, especially on uneven surfaces.

Our roads get salted , brine pre spray before major storms. Western provinces do not use salt.

No point in scraping the asphalt bare, leave a cushion to aid traction.


Thanks,

Will
2012 Sportsman 400HO.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for all the replies.
I'll be plowing paved asphalt driveways in my neighborhood. Mainly family that lives down the street and a couple of elderly neighbors. The driveways can hold 6 to 8 cars so not huge but it beats spending all night cleaning it with a snow blower.

Star: Thanks for the info on the synthetic wear bar. I'll look into it but I think for this year I will try out the metal bar and see how that goes. One question I have though is does the scraping of the metal bar sound louder than the noise of the engine? A lot of people around here use snow blowers so in the evenings when everyone is blowing their driveway, it's pretty loud in the neighborhood.

I guess i'm still a little confused though as to why I would need to leave a small gap between the plow and the paved surface? Would it not be better to scrape everything clean? Then I could throw a little salt. What's the downside to having the bar and skids set to the same height so that the bar is scraping everything clean?
 

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Plow season is just around the corner! Here is a video to get everyone into the winter plowing spirit! :chairfall:

 

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I plow commercially with pickups using Fisher V plows. I don't use shoes, steel cutting edges which I can usually get a season out of. Scrape the snow down to bear pavement or if you leave some it turns to ice!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The plow arrived today and I just opened the boxes to have a look at it. The Blade has about 5 spot welds on the bottom lip that connects the face of the blade to the back boxed edge. The spot welds form a gap between the two edges. All except one of the spot welds are broken or not holding. I thought maybe the wear bar goes in between the gap but it is not wide enough. I will have to call the dealer back on Monday but does anyone know why these two edges have a gap?
 

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Thanks for all the replies.
I'll be plowing paved asphalt driveways in my neighborhood. Mainly family that lives down the street and a couple of elderly neighbors. The driveways can hold 6 to 8 cars so not huge but it beats spending all night cleaning it with a snow blower.

Star: Thanks for the info on the synthetic wear bar. I'll look into it but I think for this year I will try out the metal bar and see how that goes. One question I have though is does the scraping of the metal bar sound louder than the noise of the engine? A lot of people around here use snow blowers so in the evenings when everyone is blowing their driveway, it's pretty loud in the neighborhood.

I guess i'm still a little confused though as to why I would need to leave a small gap between the plow and the paved surface? Would it not be better to scrape everything clean? Then I could throw a little salt. What's the downside to having the bar and skids set to the same height so that the bar is scraping everything clean?

Yes the sound can be much louder than the engine. Like I said once you get it set up, wet down your drive and try it. I think it is much better to get the surface as clean as possible. Here if you leave 1/4 inch of snow on the pavement it turns to ice. The down side to keeping the bar on the pavement is the bar will ware along with the skids now you have to replace both. If your neighbor has a nice smooth concrete drive he will be bitching about all the scratch marks once the snow melts. On the other hand if his drive is not so smooth that steel ware bar will catch in every crack. This is transferred to the plow and your frame. The synthetic edge is a semi pliable material 3/4 of an inch thick which absorbs the shocks and transfers almost nothing to the plow.

You asked for advise, I am just trying to pass along what I have experienced over the years. As you can see some are happy using the steel bar and skids that have been used for many years, and that is just fine. However just like cell phones and even Polaris AVTS, snowplow technology has evolved in recent years. For someone to say stay with the steel bar, that has never tried anything thing else is just bad advise.

Sorry to hear about the bad welds. Please let us know how it all works out for you.
 

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I've got the warn plow myself and I don't use my skid shoes as I prefer to have complete contact with the ashphalt with the wear bar. I've never noticed scrapes on my driveway, maybe because haven't had the driveway sealed since we moved in lol. I'm on year three with the original wear bar, will probably replace it at the end of this season.

I personally would only use my skid shoes if I ever had to plow a gravel drive.

If you look at municipal plow trucks, you'll notice they don't have skid shoes as they are looking to get every bit of snow off the road as they can.

If you are concerned about catching expansion joints with your plow on concrete driveways or sidewalks, I would suggest angling your plow. I have heard of guys leaving a packed base of snow on concrete drives to save on corrosion from salt and calcium that drips off their vehicles. This would be a good application to use skid shoes.

In closing lol, I just leave my shoes on the plow at the highest setting just in case I ever wanted to use them so I don't have to go digging in the garage trying to remember where I left them.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Attached are a few pictures I took of the plow today to show the lower lip where the wear bar bolts on. You can see where the back of the plow is boxed that it's bare metal inside and it's started to rust already. Also the face of the plow is poorly painted, it has some bad orange peel effect to it. It's not smooth at all. I can see snow really sticking to it.

Can anyone with a Warn provantage plow tell me if they also have a gap at the bottom of their plow?

Thanks,
 

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