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Discussion Starter #1
I just noticed that my 1995 300 4x4 isn't putting any voltage to the battery while running.

I tested the a/c voltage from the stator (yellow/red) to the terminal block and have 14.x volts.

I then tried to test the red wire for d/c voltage coming out of the rectifier and it's reading 7.x volts.

Should I be testing it at the breaker further down the line to the battery as well or

can I assume from here that my stator is good and the rectifier needs to be replaced?
 

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There should be 13.5-14.5vdc coming out of the rectifier so I would say the rectifier needs to be replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the quick reply. I'm going to clean all the terminals and try again, but I'll likely be ordering a new rectifier.

I'm actually a little happy about this problem since it could have been a $$$ stator.
 

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I agree with bp405. My 500 wasn't charging but it was a broken wire connection on the wire back to the battery to charge it. So that wire should carry about 14v.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
when plugged directly to the stator wire I get 24 vac at idle and it climbs to 38-40 something when I up the rpm. I'm assuming the stator is working okay then?

I'm still only getting 5-7 volts dc at the regulator so I'm getting another one tonight to try it out.
 

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The stator is probably OK - there is no contacts to clean - it's a permanent magnet alternator.

The rectifier cuts the voltage approximately in half, but gets the negative side (below zero) of the sine wave going in the same direction as the positive going side (above zero) so you have double the number of rising voltage pulses making the average higher. It will not charge the battery at 12 volts, but it will run the lights. When the engine revs and the voltage goes above 30 volts AC, the rectifier cuts it to about 16 volts DC - the regulator portion of the rectifier limits the output going to the battery to about 14.6 to 14.8 volts. A fully charged 12 volt battery has about 13.2 volts. You have to exceed the battery voltage to get a charging condition.

Rectifiers can be tested with an ohm meter, but based on what you have presented here, I think you should just replace the rec/reg and your problem will be solved. If your battery has been discharged long enough, you might need a new battery also. Use a BATTERY TENDER or other automatic battery charger with a 1.25 amp max. output to charge your battery before you install the new rec/reg. The charging system of the ATV is not designed to "charge" - it's designed to maintain a charge. Too high of a draw on the alternator for a long enough period of time can damage the winding's and/or the rectifier.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the info! I ordered a new regulator and expect it here by Friday.

I bought the battery after I bought the atv so I know it's only had one charge through it and hasn't been discharged much (8 mile ride).

I have a tender on it as well so I'll assume it's still good. I guess I'll find out Friday when the part arrives.
 

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Yeah you certainly should be fine after you get that new rectifier in. So far that sounds like the issue.
 

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I have a 95 300 4x4 I bought off a guy that is in rough condition and need several parts for it. Only thing I got right so far is the electrical portion. Working on fuel, oil and vent lines now. They were all removed. No idea what goes where. Can you take pictures of these and send them? Thanks.
 
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