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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

Can someone confirm what exact parts do I need to buy if I want to change so-called clutch weight rollers?

At the moment I believe I need 6 pieces of 0450229 or 0455003.
https://www.partzilla.com/product/polaris/0455003

is there 6 pieces in one package or is 1 roller 6,29$?

I also found topics where people says "replace spring too". Is it part number 4 from this picture:
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/polaris/atv/2003/predator-90-a03ka09ca-cb/drive-pulley

..or are we talking about something else.
 

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The rollers are each - part 0450229 is superseded to 0455003 - the spring in the secondary clutch is what makes the whole thing work - the primary clutch works entirely off centrifugal force.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks. Is there something else that should be changed at same time with rollers and spring?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi,

Can someone help me. I'm trying to change rollers and spring. I'm stuck when I'm trying to remove primary clutch nut and secondary clutch nut. I can't get them off. I sprayed some crc but that did not help. Basically the problem is that clutch rolls when I'm trying to loosen clutch nut. I didn't found way to prevent clutch from rolling. Took pliers and tried to keep primary fixed sheave in place so it wouldn't roll but managed to break one of the wing from sheave.

Here's picture.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/CnK1PhbbbA8pgBTx5
 

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Just use a 1/2' air or electric impact driver at a relatively low torque setting and 'zip' it loose no major holding necessary - both are RH thread so lefty loosey
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks that helped. I was able To change rollers but now Im trying to understand how to open secondary to get that spring out and new in. There seems to be nut according what I see and read from service manual. Should I just yank it open or and is there podsibility to shoot spring to forehead?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Its 38mm (huge) and should be opened with impact drive too. Just bought that 38mm and tomorrow everything should be done. I hope so.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Was a bit exciting but I was able to get it done. Managed to replace rollers. Original was black (guess they are 7mm) and now I have blue rollers (6mm). Also changed big spring. Original wasn't color coded but length was 0,5cm shorter that new red spring. Also changed 3 little springs (secondary clutch) from original not color coded to blue springs.
Only thing that I broke whole time was tiny bit of that one wing from the sheave. So I was really lucky :)

My original problem was that Predator sometimes bogged when trying to accelerate. Even small hills caused it to bog for few seconds until it got enough speed to accelerate normally. Now what I'm experiencing is something new. It really accelerates even with my 90kg weight with no problems. Hills or obstacles don't cause it to bog it runs smoothly and feels powerful.
For some reason it feels like it is louder than before. Engine seems to achieve high rpm quite fast (faster than before) and then it slightly increases when speeding but otherwise it keeps louder noise right from the beginning of acceleration. I'm not sure do you understand what I mean but...

I guess that might be normal. Should read more about rollers and their effect when roller weight is changing. Not sure how rpm feels and sounds different but..
 

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I changed them in my kids 90 over a year ago, different weights so the stall speed was higher. They do make a huge difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Yep and that louder sound is normal. Changing to lighter rollers raises rpm and more rpm means it is louder. I wasnt sure what causes bogging so I ordered new cylinder piston kit, new carburator, new reed valve and spring and rollers. Im happy that I dont have to do anything else. Great to see that bogging was because of those parts. Now I have some spare parts I suppose. Should I find another polaris 90.. ?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yesterday I tested it again by driving short trip. Everything went well except after 500m (10minutes outside -5c) my throttle suddenly got stuck. I was lucky because I was driving in field so there was no panic about crashing something. Nothing helped so had to play with on/off button to get home. At garage it suddenly started to work normally but I was like this is not going to be safe thing for the kids. I removed carburetor snorkel because I thought that it's causing throttle cable to get stuck.

Well today I said to my kids. Let's go and test how it feels after roller replacement. I said to my older kid (8y) that if throttle for some reason gets stuck then press immediately red on/off button, and do not panic! Great timing.. after 5minutes in outside (-7c) throttle got stuck and my kid knew exactly what to do. We were driving at field again so there was no real drama in it but if my younger kid (6y) would have driven that thing it would have been a bigger issue.

It's kind of weird thing that after changing some other parts something like this happens. Well anyway today I opened throttle housing while problem was still on. For some reason throttle wasn't able to close. Here's picture what I mean.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/anj5ghWdrpP8Wnzg8

I'm not sure if it's carburetor problem, cable problem or something else. Do you guys know what might be the issue. Could it be just an lubrication issue what causes cable to freeze or is there any known problem inside throttle housing?
 

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You have exposed another problem - if the throttle cable sticks, the switch in the throttle housing is supposed to kill the engine when you let off the throttle

It's possible the cable is freezing due to water, but that can be fixed by lubing the cable - it's also possible there is ice forming in the venturi of the carb preventing the slide from moving - only heat from the air or engine warming the carb will alleviate the problem, but in either instance the throttle switch should kill the engine
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Thanks Latebird. I was actually thinking earlier that what is the purpose of kill switch if it doesn't help in this kind of situations. So it should kill engine if it throttle sticks like that!!
Tomorrow I'm going to install new carburetor and lube throttle cable. If it works and throttle doesn't stick anymore then I'm happy. After that I have to see what's wrong with the kill switch.

And thanks one more time for the comments and all the help. I really appreciate it!!

Edit: Had a time to see what ETC micro switch is doing.. and it's doing absolutely nothing. That little metal piece that should press micro switch down when throttle is closed can't touch micro switch. It seems like micro switch (nipple) is worn out. I can switch it on when pressing with finger but metal piece cannot reach switch in any way. It might be something that I have to buy. Maybe buy new throttle cable too..
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Kill switch fixed! Drilled hole to that tiny metal piece and added small screw to it. Now it can reach micro switch when throttle is closed. Also took carburetor off and tried to lube cable. There's no way of doing that. Tried spraying and tried injection needle as well but oil won't go through. I'm actually thinking that it is not even possible so I just sprayed start and end of the cable.
After couple of hours I'm going to install new carburetor and after that I'm able to test if throttle still sticks.
 

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The best way to lube a cable is with a pressure luber such as Motion Pro catalog number 08-0609 - the cable must be removed from the device on at least one end and a special high pressure aerosol lubricant (Motion Pro 15-0002) is used

An alternate 'redneck' method is to remove the cable and hang it vertical (by taping it to the handlebars is a convenient way) - place a small funnel over end of the cable and tape the funnel to the cable (or fashion a funnel out of rolled paper if you are a real mountaineer) - fill the funnel with a low viscosity oil (3 in 1 oil or automatic transmission fluid works well) and let it hang there till gravity pulls the oil through the length of the cable. Be sure to place a container under the lower end of the cable to collect excess oil. This method will take an hour to 24 hours depending on the condition, length and weight of oil used - just have to have patience. If the cable is too bad, oil will never make it's way through the full length and the cable will need replaced. It's a good idea to lube a new cable before installation.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for the tip. Going to test lubing like that as soon as I'm able..

I just spent 3 hours changing carburetor. Result was.. I put old carburetor back and drank couple of beers.
What a freaking job. It sounds like easy task but there was so many little things that were just so shitty or bad. Let me be honest.. it cost 20euros so I guess I did this to myself.

- Top part of carburetor where cable is attached was pointing wrong direction. There was no way to change its position.
- choke "system" was different so original cable wasn't long enough and choke part could not be used.

After I mixed these two carburetors (choke and top part from old and all other from new) result was that I couldn't get it running.

That was the point where I sat down and opened beer. Then I decided that I change back to original carburetor. Well that helped and got Predator back alive. Did 50m and suddenly clutch started to make weird sound. It sounds like "jingle bells" inside of clutch cover. So today I fixed micro swithc, spent 3 hours of doing stupid carburetor things and found out that I have an issue with clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Welcome to the world of the repair technician - it gets easier with experience
:D Just opened clutch housing and it did take just few minutes. Couple days ago it took 15 minutes. Experience :)
Everything looked normal. No nut was loose and no parts were dropping. Slowly rolling the clutch I could hear similar sound from primary clutch somewhere behind wheel slot.
Started engine without clutch cover, no weird sound.

Put clutch cover on then started motor and got that sound. Did not understand what is causing it. Well tomorrow another test drive.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Today we tested Predator and there's still that noise but it doesn't seem to affect driving. Took a video of it:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/iXuvjjUzuWaAN9Lb8

Any ideas what to do with it?

EDIT: took it apart once again and just for fun.. eh..

Everything seems to be ok. Now removed idle gear too and cleaned that up. Made sure that rollers are in right place. Put everything back on and it keeps noise anyway. But this time I noticed that when I push kickstart towards housing it changes that sound. It could be that noise is coming from housing/clutch cover where's stuff that are attached to kickstart mechanism.

Have to take it apart again and see if oiling etc helps.
 
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