welcome back to the forum 🍺 😎
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it goes one way it says so in the name 
Tools needed. I don't have a manual for your's but the torque can be over 200 ft lbs between the two halves.
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Here are some pics
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OK, does it turn freely? Or have some resistance? How much play does the one-way have side to side?
With a bright light, look very closely at the base of the sheaves down by where the one-way bearing turns. Is there a groove cut into the base of the inside stationary sheave by the end of the one-way bearing? Or any hair-line cracks at the base of the other moveable sheave?
There are supposed to be two teflon washers (#s 18 and 2) on either end of the bearing. On those older style clutches, the washers sometimes get worn away and the bearing end will then rub directly against the sheave base causing the problems I asked about above. This results in resistance to turning and some creep when hot.
If the sheaves otherwise look good but the bearing has resistance rather than turning freely then your clutch should be good to rebuild. It may just have belt dust in the bearing or the bearing is getting dry. They originally have a light coating of high temp grease inside with seals and the washers on either end. When the washers wear and the bearing gets dry and dirty it causes resistance to it turning freely.
With the low mileage you describe and if the drive clutch appears to be in good shape from your inspection, then you may just have a slight alignment problem or possibly need to shim the secondary clutch for a little more belt deflection. Shim washers #s 15 and 16 below.
All this is assuming you're running the original or a new OEM belt? Changing belts or installing an aftermarket belt sometimes requires readjustments.
Good luck and let us know what you find.
![Mammal Font Drawing Motor vehicle Auto part]()
With a bright light, look very closely at the base of the sheaves down by where the one-way bearing turns. Is there a groove cut into the base of the inside stationary sheave by the end of the one-way bearing? Or any hair-line cracks at the base of the other moveable sheave?
There are supposed to be two teflon washers (#s 18 and 2) on either end of the bearing. On those older style clutches, the washers sometimes get worn away and the bearing end will then rub directly against the sheave base causing the problems I asked about above. This results in resistance to turning and some creep when hot.
If the sheaves otherwise look good but the bearing has resistance rather than turning freely then your clutch should be good to rebuild. It may just have belt dust in the bearing or the bearing is getting dry. They originally have a light coating of high temp grease inside with seals and the washers on either end. When the washers wear and the bearing gets dry and dirty it causes resistance to it turning freely.
With the low mileage you describe and if the drive clutch appears to be in good shape from your inspection, then you may just have a slight alignment problem or possibly need to shim the secondary clutch for a little more belt deflection. Shim washers #s 15 and 16 below.
| 15 |  | 7555898 | Washer (.020)(EB) |
| 15 | | 7556076 | Washer (.025)(EB) |
| 16 | | 7556804 | Washer (.030)(EB) |
All this is assuming you're running the original or a new OEM belt? Changing belts or installing an aftermarket belt sometimes requires readjustments.
Good luck and let us know what you find.
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
