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Polaris sportsman 500

2446 Views 30 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Canoeman
I have a 2002 sportsman that I am having the creep problem. After clutches and or belt warms up. I have looked at clutch offset as maybe the problem don't have the special tool but have tried to get belt centered in between sheaves when at idle. Still will creep when warmed up have measured free length of spring in drive clutch and is in spec. Also no flat spots on clutch weights or rollers. There is some play in clutch weights on shoulder bolts could this be the issue. Don't want to just throw parts in that are not necessary. The machine has very low miles at 1200 mi. Clutches appear to be new appreciate any suggestions
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One way bearing?
Tell me more about this one way bearing
So the Polaris that I have is EBS model engine braking. Maybe that's what you mean by one way bearing
I鈥檝e heard that one of the main causes of 鈥渃reep鈥 may be that the one way bearing has seized up

but my knowledge doesn鈥檛 go that deep I鈥檓 afraid as I have not done the repair myself yet .
Is that in the primary clutch or the secondary clutch
Number one in the top diagram. Here's a pic too. With the belt off the one-way bearing should turn freely one way and lock to the shaft when you try to turn it the other way.
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Seems like there's a couple of special tools I would need to dismantle that would I be better off buying a aftermarket clutch assembly
When you say that one way bearing should turn one way freely and lock on the shaft and the other direction is that when you're trying to turn the whole clutch assembly when it is on the bench
I have removed the primary clutch assembly and had it on the bench and I can't turn that assembly in either direction is that bad
Tools needed. I don't have a manual for your's but the torque can be over 200 ft lbs between the two halves.


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When you say that one way bearing should turn one way freely and lock on the shaft and the other direction is that when you're trying to turn the whole clutch assembly when it is on the bench
You don't have to take it off the machine. You just get the belt off and reach down in the center of the clutch and turn the one-way with your fingers. Does your clutch have the ridged/grooved section in the center or is it smooth?
If it has the grooved part in the center and it won't turn then the bearing is seized up.
Depending on the overall condition of the clutch, it may or may not be repairable. Post some pictures.
Yes it has grooves in the middle section
Okay so now I have figured out how to turn the one-way clutch. I have found that I can turn that one way bearing the groove section in the middle in clockwise direction easily but counterclockwise can't turn it at all
OK, does it turn freely? Or have some resistance? How much play does the one-way have side to side?
With a bright light, look very closely at the base of the sheaves down by where the one-way bearing turns. Is there a groove cut into the base of the inside stationary sheave by the end of the one-way bearing? Or any hair-line cracks at the base of the other moveable sheave?
There are supposed to be two teflon washers (#s 18 and 2) on either end of the bearing. On those older style clutches, the washers sometimes get worn away and the bearing end will then rub directly against the sheave base causing the problems I asked about above. This results in resistance to turning and some creep when hot.
If the sheaves otherwise look good but the bearing has resistance rather than turning freely then your clutch should be good to rebuild. It may just have belt dust in the bearing or the bearing is getting dry. They originally have a light coating of high temp grease inside with seals and the washers on either end. When the washers wear and the bearing gets dry and dirty it causes resistance to it turning freely.

With the low mileage you describe and if the drive clutch appears to be in good shape from your inspection, then you may just have a slight alignment problem or possibly need to shim the secondary clutch for a little more belt deflection. Shim washers #s 15 and 16 below.
157555898Washer (.020)(EB)
157556076Washer (.025)(EB)
167556804Washer (.030)(EB)

All this is assuming you're running the original or a new OEM belt? Changing belts or installing an aftermarket belt sometimes requires readjustments.
Good luck and let us know what you find.
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Those shim washer part numbers is that dealer supported from Polaris and thank you for all your help I am very grateful
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