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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
RickCecco's Polaris XP frame brace installation

Ok, so here's the deal. I bought a set of the frame braces that RickCecco is offering here. Well made, darn nice brace. Thanks Rick,.....I appreciate you bringing this to the market for us.
There are little to no instructions on the net for the install. These are a relatively easy bolt on deal that nearly anyone can do. Patience is key! Just to make sure you heard that,.....PATIENCE is key to getting these installed.
The machine i am putting them on is a 2012 XP550 LE, hours on this are 11.8, miles read 71. I did recently buy this with .4 on the odometer. Rumor has it that machines with more miles tend to offer an easier install.

I am no professional at this. Will have text in the next post with steps. Those steps will correspond with pictures in the link to follow in the next post.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
-Step 1, remove the rear skid guard. I have the factory one, rather easy, seven Torx screws
-Step 2, remove the Richochet A-Arm guards, eight fasteners
-Step 3, pics 3, 4, 5, & 6 show how I positioned the rear brace to slip it in place
-Step 4, pic 7, remove the lower a-arm nuts and bolts,( wheels on and weight on wheels)
-Step 5, pic 8, reposition rear brace plate in frame
-Step 6, pic 9 shows the plate with the left side bolt in place and the amount of "adjustment" that is needed.
-Step 7, pics 10, 10.5 & 10.75, show how I positioned, and held the plate in place. I used a pair of 9" needle nose vice grips from the lower right hole to the edge of the a-arm mount. this pulled the brace oVer about half the distance I needed. I then used a pointed bar, positioned in the upper hole, to move the brace another 1/8". I then clamped the brace to the mount with a set of 6" vice grips. Bolt was then inserted.
-Step 8, pic 11 shows the forward brace being installed
-Step 9, pic 12 shows the blue, medium strength thread locker that was used. Keep in mind, the Nylock insert in the nut was compromised when removed. A few drops is cheap insurance.
-Step 10, pic 13 shows the torque wrench, 6" extension, swivel and 15mm socket used to torque the bolts. Since torquing from the BOLT HEAD and not the nut, add 10-15% to the torque value, I upped the torque to 50 ft lbs, as opposed to 45 ft lbs if torquing the nut.
-Step 11, pics 14 through 19 show reinstall of removed components, routing of brake line with hose for chafe protection, repositioned hose clamp and RickCerro's Polaris XP frame brace installed.


Hopefully this is rather easy to follow, most will be VERY self explanatory.
No mods.
No drilling.
No removal of suspension components.
Wheels on ground, no jacking needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hope this helps.

If anyone else happens to have some thoughts.......please feel free to speak up.
 

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Hope this helps.

If anyone else happens to have some thoughts.......please feel free to speak up.
Sweet, thanks for the excellent write-up and pics!
 

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I installed these today and followed your procedure mostly. The pointed bar I used was a little small, once I used a larger bar it worked well. I used the pointed bar on both front and rear plates with vice grips to hold it in place as I slid the last bolt through. Once it was bolted together I ended up taking the rear wheels off so I had more room for the torque wrench to fit in. The right tools and some patience makes this much easier! Unfortunately when I put the wheels back on, I broke 2 wheel studs (using a torque wrench to 75 ft/lbs). Got 4 new studs from dealer installed 2 and broke 2 more (torqued to spec). Installed 2 more, retorqued this time it didn't break. Looks like some low quality Wheel studs!
 

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I installed these today and followed your procedure mostly. The pointed bar I used was a little small, once I used a larger bar it worked well. I used the pointed bar on both front and rear plates with vice grips to hold it in place as I slid the last bolt through. Once it was bolted together I ended up taking the rear wheels off so I had more room for the torque wrench to fit in. The right tools and some patience makes this much easier! Unfortunately when I put the wheels back on, I broke 2 wheel studs (using a torque wrench to 75 ft/lbs). Got 4 new studs from dealer installed 2 and broke 2 more (torqued to spec). Installed 2 more, retorqued this time it didn't break. Looks like some low quality Wheel studs!
Thanks for the feedback and glad the install went well.

I to have broken sever wheel studs trying to get 75 ft/lb out of them. Luckily they are easy to change.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
 

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Looks like something that would be easier to install before I put my Ricochet kit on.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yes........
 

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Thanks for pics!! This will be helpful with my install.
 

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when I put the wheels back on, I broke 2 wheel studs (using a torque wrench to 75 ft/lbs). Got 4 new studs from dealer installed 2 and broke 2 more (torqued to spec). Installed 2 more, retorqued this time it didn't break. Looks like some low quality Wheel studs!
If you use never-seeze or grease you need to derate the torque #s.
It's not a single ratio. It depends on bolt class, bolt size, thread pitch, and clamping load desired.
http://www.repairengineering.com/bolt-torque-chart.html





Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I installed these today and followed your procedure mostly. The pointed bar I used was a little small, once I used a larger bar it worked well. I used the pointed bar on both front and rear plates with vice grips to hold it in place as I slid the last bolt through. Once it was bolted together I ended up taking the rear wheels off so I had more room for the torque wrench to fit in. The right tools and some patience makes this much easier! Unfortunately when I put the wheels back on, I broke 2 wheel studs (using a torque wrench to 75 ft/lbs). Got 4 new studs from dealer installed 2 and broke 2 more (torqued to spec). Installed 2 more, retorqued this time it didn't break. Looks like some low quality Wheel studs!
I broke a few studs. I use anti-seize on mine. Lower the torque value due to wet torque by 40%
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yep,......but that spec is a DRY torque.
If you apply anti-seize or grease to the threads, that makes it a WET torque.
Reduce the torque value by 40%, which calculates to 45 lbft of torque.
 

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Good info here! Going to be buying mine from Rick this Friday the latest. I already ordered the cvt brace, holding the shipping off till I by the a arm brace too. Looks lie I will hold off on my arm guard install on the rear till this brace is on!

Thanks for taking the time to post this info!
 
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