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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

This seems to be quite common fail code and many of us have found solution but..could you please help me with this..

My Polaris X5P550 2009 (without ESP) is not starting anymore. Not sure if it has anything to do with this but only problems that I have been earlier suffering has been some backfiring when plowing. Then engine turns off and it takes few tries to get it back on. At summer there has been no issues until now.

Battery is fully charged 12,72V. When I turn ignition key it clicks and then engine failure light turns on. It gives 520193 7 code which seems to be "throttle stuck".
140992


Next I checked throttle cable freeplay and I do not understand if there is a problem or not. This is the default position and those two metal parts are connected. If I understand this right..they shouldn't be touching when in default position.
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That's why I started to make adjustments to cable but no matter what I do I can't separate those two parts unless I push thumb throttle like this. Now they are separated.
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Even though I'm separating those two by pressing thumb throttle or adding piece of plastic between those parts I can't get engine to turn on. It just clicks and that's all.

Do I have a problem with cable adjustments now or something else. I do not quite understand if there is problem with cable because XP has been working earlier and nothing has been changed.

I would really appreciate if someone could help me..
 

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Contacts should be closed at idle - here the adjustment procedure
140997

Now your starting problem; code 520193 7 - the IAC is out of range

140998

140999
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Now your starting problem; code 520193 7 - the IAC is out of range


View attachment 140999
Okay, so I have wrong information about that code. Well that is ...awful if it's that sensor that is causing this. I have to check this out tomorrow.

If it is sensor problem and it should be replaced... is this right part number:
3131629..

Couple hundred euros... :rolleyes::cry:
 

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Yep that's the number - $250 USD - $200 dealer cost
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Are those 30$ china parts complete waste of time?
It seems that used parts are really expensive too..

EDIT: I love US. ;) Found used original part with reasonable price. Now I have to wait weeks to get it to here Europe. Today I adjusted throttle cable and because of pure curiosity took carb out and sensor too. Also checked all connectors but couldn't find anything special. Like it says in IAC test procedure there is no way to fix bad sensor so I'm guessing if it's broken then there is no visual evidence if so.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Ok so here's the thing.
I received me "new" IAC and installed it. Turned key and display was flashing blaablaa. Battery was empty so tried to recharge it but found out that battery wasn't charging anymore. It still worked 2 weeks ago when I did my last tests with old IAC.

So got a new battery and installed it. Turned key and start motor just tries and tries but can't get engine on. Checked thumb throttle because I adjusted it. It is ok and contacts are closed when idle.
Decided to change my new IAC to old because started to wonder if this whole shit is because of battery..
Old part installed and I turn key. No error codes but engine doesn't turn on. So new IAC and old IAC are acting same.

Is there something I haven't noticed when changing IAC or battery. Is there procedure that I need to do if I change IAC or battery? need help... badly.. :(

Edit: calling mr @latebird
Any ideas what could be my problem?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Took spark plug out and noticed that I get no spark. What is going on..
Checked fuses from the fuse box. Everything ok. Changed spark plug ..no help.
Aaaargghhtt....
 

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Polaris is not much help here - apparently the ignitions system never fails - here's the trouble shooting aid per the service manual.

141365

According to the service manual your problem is a fouled spark plug!

Of course we know there are many more possibilities than just a spark plug :unsure:, but 90% of all electrical problems are connection problems and 90% of the connection problems are ground connections.

OK - do you have power on the white wire at the ignition coil - if no, do you have power on the red/blue wire at the fuel pump?

I suspect either a bad relay, connection or ECM at this point, but before that can be narrowed as a possibility, there needs to be 12v to some other things.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Polaris is not much help here - apparently the ignitions system never fails - here's the trouble shooting aid per the service manual.

View attachment 141365
According to the service manual your problem is a fouled spark plug!

Of course we know there are many more possibilities than just a spark plug :unsure:, but 90% of all electrical problems are connection problems and 90% of the connection problems are ground connections.

OK - do you have power on the white wire at the ignition coil - if no, do you have power on the red/blue wire at the fuel pump?

I suspect either a bad relay, connection or ECM at this point, but before that can be narrowed as a possibility, there needs to be 12v to some other things.
I'm so stupid that I need to do this step by step. So you mean this connector right?
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And measuring it would happen with fluke by setting it to 20V and red to white connector and black to black connector?
I get nothing. If I'm doing something wrong..well..90% possibility of that..
141376
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
And for the pump..it should be this connector right?
141377

Red/blue wire connected to fluke's red and fluke's black to battery's negative. I get nothing.
 

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First pic - yes that's the plug, but you need to check white to battery neg with key on

Second pic - yes - on the pump, connect 12v + to red/blu terminal and bat neg to brown terminal - insulate the vio/wht terminal - you could also check for 12v red/blu to brn on the plug with the key on
 

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Discussion Starter #13
First pic - yes that's the plug, but you need to check white to battery neg with key on

Second pic - yes - on the pump, connect 12v + to red/blu terminal and bat neg to brown terminal - insulate the vio/wht terminal - you could also check for 12v red/blu to brn on the plug with the key on
I actually did check that ignition coil plug by connecting fluke's red to white and flukes black to battery's neg and key was on. There was nothing.

And that pump thing. Connected fluke's red to red/blue and flukes black to brown and got nothing there
..or am I misunderstanding your message. It might be that I'm translating and understanding your message slightly wrong.

For me it seems like there is no power at all in those connectors. Other electronics are working though..
 

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You got it right - you have no voltage to the ignition and fuel pump - find out where the voltage is lost

141391

Is there 12v on both sides of the EFI fuse? Does the EFI relay turn on?

Battery voltage goes through the fuse to the EFI relay contacts - when the relay closes 12v is on the red/blu (LA4A) wire - LA4A goes to a splice where is splits to 3 other red/blu wires - LA4B, LA4D and LA4G.

LA4B goes to the fuel pump - LA4D goes to the fuel injector and LA4G goes to a splice where it becomes white wire LA4F - LA4 F goes to the ignition coil
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If the EFI relay is active, I surmise you have a bad fuse, bad connection on the fuse, bad relay, relay connection, broken wire or faulty splice - since there is no voltage on either the white or red/blu wires, I suspect a fuse, relay or their connections.

If the EFI relay is not active (turning on and off) then the problem is in the control circuit (faulty ECM)

Let me know what you determine
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Is there 12v on both sides of the EFI fuse? Does the EFI relay turn on?

Let me know what you determine
Hi, did some tests.
Took EFI fuse away and there is 12V.
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Then put fuse back and tested 12v from the EFI relay socket. There is 12V. So, fuse seems to be okay.
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Relay part is difficult. Should EFI relay always click when key is turned (not yet starting engine)? Lights are working so I decided to change "Bumber lights relay" with "EFI relay". Then I measured those wires which goes to fuel pump and ignition coil. There is still nothing.
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I asked that relay click because I hear only 3 clicks when I turn the key. Anyway I changed relay places and it made no difference, I guess relay part is okay.
 

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All the relays except the chassis relay are turned on by the ECU and the ECU controls grounding - if the relays are not turning on and have power, then the ECM is not switching on the ground for the relays and you probably need an ECU.

Take it to a dealer and have the diagnostics run on it and be prepared to install a new unit - $515 USD and it has to be programmed - if you are lucky, the ECU itself is suffering from a faulty ground connection or possible simply needs to be reprogrammed.
 

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The chassis relay should click when the key is turned on - the ECU will close the other relays depending on the inputs it gets from other sensors. Fuel pump relay typically turns on immediately with chassis relay to pressurize the fuel rail, then turns off until the engine starts - when the engine starts, then the relay turns on and stays on until the engine is stopped. If the fuel mpump is failing, sometimes you have to cycle the key on and foo repeatedly to get the pump to create sufficient pressure to get the engine to start. Doe the fuel pump run at all?
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
The chassis relay should click when the key is turned on - the ECU will close the other relays depending on the inputs it gets from other sensors. Fuel pump relay typically turns on immediately with chassis relay to pressurize the fuel rail, then turns off until the engine starts - when the engine starts, then the relay turns on and stays on until the engine is stopped. If the fuel mpump is failing, sometimes you have to cycle the key on and foo repeatedly to get the pump to create sufficient pressure to get the engine to start. Doe the fuel pump run at all?
And to test that pump would need 12v straight from battery right?

Checked relays once more and they all seem to work I suppose.

I took all relays off and added them one by one.
  • chassis relay clicks (immediately when key turns..actually before key is fully turned)
  • ecu relay clicks when key is turned off
  • fan relay doesn't click..
  • efi relay clicks when turning key
  • bumber light relay doesn't click
So it seems that relays are okay and that is why I'm thinking that ECU is okay too.
Next seems to be splice you were talking about...
 

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There should be 12v on the red/blu wire at the fuel pump when the EFI relay is on - have you tried swapping the relays from one socket to another?
 
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