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Discussion Starter #1
This is the thread for the rebuild of my quad. Ive got some questions regarding parts and things i may want to change during this process.
list of things to address
1. Bent rear rim, Could i straighten it or just replace? I have been leaning towards getting some 12s for the rear for better tire choice.

2.Bent handle bars and steering shaft. Are the Polaris bars a universal fit or specific to each machine? And the steering shaft is there any chance of straightening it or just replace, If replace the same question as above. can i use the shaft out of similar years sportsmans or?

3. Chain needs replaced.

4.Headlight pod got destroyed. Now thing is i dont need a speedo, didnt work anyway. Although i know the AWD needs a signal from the speedo module, a ground i think? But I Noticed the Xplorer 300 4x4 doesn't have the Pod headlight or speedo, Could i convert to that setup? alot cheaper than replacing that Pod and gauge.

5. Busted CVT cover. Are they engine specific or do they interchange? pretty sure i just need the outside cover.

6. Plan on adding a winch and LED pods in place of the factory.

7. Both racks got messed up, What years and models do the racks interchange?
 

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Discussion Starter #2


So this is the setup on the 300s. one thing i notice is the lack of a coolant warning light. How does the 4x4 work on these without a speedo to get a signal from?

I did find one with a coolant light
 

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What model year is the Xplorer you're working on? I have a 97 that i've rebuilt from the frame up more than once.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
1999? says it was made at the end of 1999 not sure if a last year 1999 is considered 99 or 2000.

Went ahead and bought the Bars and dash/indicators for it. going for just the basic dash and doing away with the light pod and speedo. Gonna bypass the speedo.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Seems like the itp delta rims come in a 12x7 2+5 offset. now what i wonder is isnt the 7wide a bit narrow for a rear? my concern being putting a 10wide tire on wouldn't the narrow rim cause the tire to stand taller than it should throwing off the ratio between front and rear?
 

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I wouldn't worry about it. Any difference would be insignificant. Just make sure you have the correct bolt pattern as the old solid axle was different from the rest of the polaris line up.
 

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If you want to know what year model it is, simply provide the VIN or Polaris model number off the frame and someone on here can resolve the issue
 

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Discussion Starter #9
What tires do yall recommend? And realistically what tire size can I expect this machine to pull? 25s on it now. Would like something more for mud.
 

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Discussion Starter #11

These are what i picked out. Got two of the ITP rims and these tires. Not to hard on the wallet and reviews place this as a decent all around tire.
 

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The one thing that i noticed on my '97 with the larger tires is that on one side at the front, the tire would rub the tie rod end (stock rims). I ended up making a bracket for the strut to move the tie rod end in half an inch. Not sure why it was only on the one side. I run Interco Swamp Lite ties on my Xplorer, they have performed extremely well for me (I also run them on my 700).
 

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They were 25 inch but for some reason they hit the tie rod (25x8-12 and 25x11-10). I'll have to check tomorrow to see if it's still the case or if it was my previous set that hit due to the larger side lugs. I know I initially added spacers to the hubs to push out the rims but switched to the mod on the strut to stop the rubbing. It's been quite a while since I've had to work on it so the memory is a little "unclear"... lol
 

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Discussion Starter #16
More things to add to the agenda. New chain. needs the racks (man are those made of gold apparently) Oring or non oring? maybe sprockets? Pads. Fresh battery. Replace oil tank to pump line and line from pump to intake.(just for peace of mind)

Checking fluids. The counter shaft oil is a nice milky white. Ive read the water pump can leak back in? and im not sure where the drain is for it. Really should get one of those manual things people keep talking about.

Noticed when i had the air box out alittle fuel setting in the boot/carb so maybe give that a cleaning. Thing starts well honestly better than most fuel injected atvs just tap the start and its purring away.

Checked the radiator and its nice and full of green coolant so all good there. fired it up and no bubbles. bubbles=Bad yes?

Pretty sure something isnt right with the rad fan. its has never cycled in the whole time ive ridden the atv. although ive not really ridden it too hard for too long so maybe it just wasnt getting hot? Is there any tests for the fan and switch? Not sure if that warning light works or not although whenever i have been on it for any longer period of time ive checked by feeling the rad hoses and nothing ever felt like it was too hot. A mod i may do is a digital temp gauge.

Trans fluid. So my understanding there isnt a dipstick for it, just a fill hole?

I figured while its down theres no reason not to go through it and service what needs it and return it to the trails refreshed. tempted to put a pipe on it and tune it for just a hair more power.
 

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I don’t know that engine because mine are all 500’s but of the same era. But a quick look at a parts diagram tells me the cooling system sensors are similar, so this applies to your situation. There are two temp sensors. One in the radiator that controls the fan, and one in the engine that controls the light. There are testing procedures (in the manual), but I’ve found that the fan switch/sensor was bad in every one of my machines of that age when I first got it (even one that tested good, just wouldn’t let through enough juice to kick on the fan). So I recommend just replacing the sensor in the radiator that controls the fan, they’re cheap on Amazon or eBay. To test your fan, cross the two terminal on the sensor in the radiator with the key on. Your fan should kick on. Make sure you burp the cooling system to get the air out after you change the sensor in the radiator.
 

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underneath the engine there are two bolts. One is a drain for the crankcase if needed and the other drains the counter balancer. Having coolant in the oil is not good of course. When I went to fix mine, the shaft was grooved being so old and pitted from the coolant making it impossible to seal. I sent it off to a company that I can't remember, and they put a stainless steel sleeve over the shaft to allow the new seal to work.
As stated, testing the fan is a simple as shorting the leads on the temp sensor on the rad. The light on the dash is controlled by a sensor behind the cylinder and above the carb boot.
If you want to get ANY life out of your chain, get an o-ring #520 chain. I bought a super extra long motorcycle chain for a high end motor bike, split it into lengths and redid all 3 of my chains. I'm pretty sure yours only has the rear chain with shaft drive to the front.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yeah only the rear chain on mine. And I'm not sure if it's coolant. But definitely something. I'll drain it this weekend and replace the oil and see how long it goes until it turns back.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
But I would assume that's pretty much the only way water gets in there other than a bad case seal right
 
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