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Is there anyway to piggyback a tender to do all your battery's. Like buy one tender and connect all batterys in parallel? Thanks!
there is a SPECIAL battery tender for doing this... I believe it will do 4 at a time? im not positive, but no u cant take a regular one and hook up several batterys, remember the internal resisitance of every battery would be different so that would cause current regulation issues, it would get really complicated to even figure out in theory what might happen! I just buy the little bat tenders and plug em in where I need them...
 

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Since new I have used a 2 Amp Battery Charger/Float on my sportsman. I think it's the reason my stock battery is still working great after 3 years and some very cold winters plowing. I do have to say though I will be doing away with the Charger/Floater traditional maintainers and going to the smart battery maintainers. Reason being is for long term storage the newer design Maintainers are safer and more efficient on your battery.

I recently picked up a TecMate Optimate 3+ for my Honda Generator battery and will be getting the TecMate 5 for my Sportsman battery.
 

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I have had good luck with the Yuasa 1 amp trickle chargers. They come with pigtails you attach permanently to your battery so you can plug it in without removing the seat. Yuasa came out on top in a test of the major brands. That said, any of the well known trickle chargers is better than none. Tractor Supply has good prices on Schumacher chargers that will automatically adjust for 6 or 12 volt and charge at a trickle rate.
 

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I have a Sportsman 570 EFI 2015 and I was riding a little tough yesterday, some race starts and drifts and stuff and next thing ya know it dies and my battery is at .2 (yes that is 0.2 volts) basically flat lined. How do I know if I bunt a rectifier or if my alternator is bad? Also how would I be able to charge my battery back up? I have a trickle charger but that does not to work at this deep of a discharge. Thanks to anyone that can help! ~Jim
 

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if you have 0.2 Volt the battery is gone but you can try one thing,
take a car battery and hook it to your battery so the voltage go up and connect the charger but not a trickle charger, after 30 min or so try to unhook the car battery if you have luck you can awaken your battery this way
 

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This is a great thread. Ive got the battery tender juniors. Hook up the cables to your batteries and run them to the best spot you can get at to plug in. My Juniors are 900 MA. They are a must have for all your 6 and 12 volt batteries. Cabelas has them,Walmart FarmnFleet. Most auto parts stores. Heck even your local Polaris dealer sells them.
 

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I just bought a 2000 xplorer 400. Wore the battery down running the winch for plowing snow. The guy I bought it from pointed out the accessory 2 prong cable under the seat for running things like a sprayer. If you've read this thread you know what I used that for right? I've used this charger all winter for ice fishing 12V batteries w/ no problems at all. Bought with prime on-line for $33. The 5A gets you over the hump quickly then it drops down so won't take you 12 hrs to charge if battery is down but can still leave it plugged in as tender/maintainer.
-seach-
12Volt 5Amp Car Battery Charger For AGM GEL Sealed Lead acid VRLA RV Marine Golf Cart Motorcycle Batteries (Red)
 

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another member had suggested tech-write ups and the such, and so i thought i would start with the most common...how to properly maintain your battery. trust me, it needs much more care then your car battery. it is a long read, but it might save you a benjamin....and in these tough economical times, a 15 minute read might be worth $100 to you. i might make some spelling errors, bear with me.

if you are unaware, many powersport batteries are i $60 or more dollars, with a quite a few over $100. the first common question i always got behind the parts counter was "How can this small battery be more then my car battery?" The answer is quite simple, you ATV battery has to be much more effeicant at producing cold cranking amps per battery pound then your car battery. ATV's do not have the luxury to have large, oversized batteries like our cars do. we have dont have the space, and dont want the weight. so your ATV battery has to do a better job at putting out cranking amps. batteries are one of those items that you get what you pay for! you can find a $50-$100 spread in price for the same size battery from many different manufactures, but there is truely a difference in quality among the prices. my suggestion is get the higger end battery and then maintain it. it will pay for itself if you maintain it right. if you do nothing even the best battery will fail. a good quality battery should have a 6 month warranty on it. there is a percentage of batteries that will fail right away. my suggestion is do not buy a battery unless the manufacture offers a 6 month replacement warranty for a failed battery and keep your recipts!!!! my personal favorite brand of battery is Yuasa, but there are many other good brands.

so what causes a battey to fail? every single day, a battery naturally discharges about 1% of charge a day, every day it is not used. so in 1 month of not being used, your battery is at about 70% charged. in two months its about 40% charged, and after three months it is only about 10% charged. perminate, unreversiable damage starts to occur around 20-30 days of no use. i would personally not allow the battery to go more then two weeks without a recharge. as a batteries charge starts to drop, sulfate builds up on the plates, reducing the amount of contact area between the plates and acid. once this chemical reaction starts, it is almost impossible to stop. eventually the plates become so covered in sulfate that your battery can no longer put out the requried cranking amps to start. which is why, when in this stage and hooked to a battery charger, the battery charger can show the battery is fully charged as far as volts go. if your battery shows fully charged but wont start the machine, you will need a shop to preform a load test. the battery must have a full volt charge to do it. it only takes 15 seconds of time. it is a simple test that shows if the battery can recover from a large draw of amps (i.e. simulates starting).

so how do you prevent this all from happening? starting your machine briefly is the worst thing possible. not only is it losing charge daily, but you are taking away a large load of amps without giving it a chance to recharge, and its also a great way to foul spark plugs as well. starting you machine and letting it idle isnt much better. at idle RPM the stator is not producing a lot of extra amps to recharge the battery. it takes higher then idle RPMs to really get your battery back to fully charged, but reving the motor while its not moving is hard on the cooling system.

so you can either ride it 15-20 minutes every 1-2 weeks or.....you can buy a battery tender. battery tenders are great! you can buy them at just about any battery shop, atv shop, probably even car part stores. a decent one will run you about $40-50. less then the cost of a new battery! how you use a battery tender is you connect the postive and negative terminals to your battery, just like you would a booster or charger, and plug the tender into a normal 120V wall outlet. what it does it slowly charge your battery back to full and then floats your battery charge at full for however long it is plugged in. you can leave it plugged into you battery for months on end, it will never overcharge it and boil the acid inside! that is the actual intent and design of the tender, to stay connected to your battery for however long you need it to be. by keeping your battery fully charged, it resist the build up of sulfur on the plates inside. common life of todays powersports battery is 2-3 years, but with a battery tender, a lot of my customers where getting 4-6 years from one battery and i have heard of some people getting 8+ years from one battery.

my recommendations are: buy a battery tender for every powersports battery you own. these things are well worth the investment. plug it in when winter rolls around, forget about it until spring.

this is my speech that i give all of my customers that come to the parts counter confused because their battery failed. i had on guy buy an 2008 sportsman 400 for his daughter for christmas. then he calls us up in april ready to ride for spring, but his furious because his ATV he bought 4 months ago with only 6 miles and 0.3 hours will not start. i asked if he had charged the battery at all during those 4 months, he said no, but continued to tell me it cant be the battery, the batter is brand new. he wouldnt accept the info i just shared above. anyway, he brought his machine in, we replaced his battery. (it was a yuasa, still under the 6 month manufacture warrranty) and as soon as we got a new batter in and some fresh fuel it fired right back to life. protect you wallet, and go have fun!

feel free to add, change, or edit if you feel i mis-stated something.
oh oh--Looks like my motor cycle I leave in Florida for the winter will definitly need a new battery--it will be a few years before the border will be open to snowbirds again. power is shut off.
 

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another member had suggested tech-write ups and the such, and so i thought i would start with the most common...how to properly maintain your battery. trust me, it needs much more care then your car battery. it is a long read, but it might save you a benjamin....and in these tough economical times, a 15 minute read might be worth $100 to you. i might make some spelling errors, bear with me.

if you are unaware, many powersport batteries are i $60 or more dollars, with a quite a few over $100. the first common question i always got behind the parts counter was "How can this small battery be more then my car battery?" The answer is quite simple, you ATV battery has to be much more effeicant at producing cold cranking amps per battery pound then your car battery. ATV's do not have the luxury to have large, oversized batteries like our cars do. we have dont have the space, and dont want the weight. so your ATV battery has to do a better job at putting out cranking amps. batteries are one of those items that you get what you pay for! you can find a $50-$100 spread in price for the same size battery from many different manufactures, but there is truely a difference in quality among the prices. my suggestion is get the higger end battery and then maintain it. it will pay for itself if you maintain it right. if you do nothing even the best battery will fail. a good quality battery should have a 6 month warranty on it. there is a percentage of batteries that will fail right away. my suggestion is do not buy a battery unless the manufacture offers a 6 month replacement warranty for a failed battery and keep your recipts!!!! my personal favorite brand of battery is Yuasa, but there are many other good brands.

so what causes a battey to fail? every single day, a battery naturally discharges about 1% of charge a day, every day it is not used. so in 1 month of not being used, your battery is at about 70% charged. in two months its about 40% charged, and after three months it is only about 10% charged. perminate, unreversiable damage starts to occur around 20-30 days of no use. i would personally not allow the battery to go more then two weeks without a recharge. as a batteries charge starts to drop, sulfate builds up on the plates, reducing the amount of contact area between the plates and acid. once this chemical reaction starts, it is almost impossible to stop. eventually the plates become so covered in sulfate that your battery can no longer put out the requried cranking amps to start. which is why, when in this stage and hooked to a battery charger, the battery charger can show the battery is fully charged as far as volts go. if your battery shows fully charged but wont start the machine, you will need a shop to preform a load test. the battery must have a full volt charge to do it. it only takes 15 seconds of time. it is a simple test that shows if the battery can recover from a large draw of amps (i.e. simulates starting).

so how do you prevent this all from happening? starting your machine briefly is the worst thing possible. not only is it losing charge daily, but you are taking away a large load of amps without giving it a chance to recharge, and its also a great way to foul spark plugs as well. starting you machine and letting it idle isnt much better. at idle RPM the stator is not producing a lot of extra amps to recharge the battery. it takes higher then idle RPMs to really get your battery back to fully charged, but reving the motor while its not moving is hard on the cooling system.

so you can either ride it 15-20 minutes every 1-2 weeks or.....you can buy a battery tender. battery tenders are great! you can buy them at just about any battery shop, atv shop, probably even car part stores. a decent one will run you about $40-50. less then the cost of a new battery! how you use a battery tender is you connect the postive and negative terminals to your battery, just like you would a booster or charger, and plug the tender into a normal 120V wall outlet. what it does it slowly charge your battery back to full and then floats your battery charge at full for however long it is plugged in. you can leave it plugged into you battery for months on end, it will never overcharge it and boil the acid inside! that is the actual intent and design of the tender, to stay connected to your battery for however long you need it to be. by keeping your battery fully charged, it resist the build up of sulfur on the plates inside. common life of todays powersports battery is 2-3 years, but with a battery tender, a lot of my customers where getting 4-6 years from one battery and i have heard of some people getting 8+ years from one battery.

my recommendations are: buy a battery tender for every powersports battery you own. these things are well worth the investment. plug it in when winter rolls around, forget about it until spring.

this is my speech that i give all of my customers that come to the parts counter confused because their battery failed. i had on guy buy an 2008 sportsman 400 for his daughter for christmas. then he calls us up in april ready to ride for spring, but his furious because his ATV he bought 4 months ago with only 6 miles and 0.3 hours will not start. i asked if he had charged the battery at all during those 4 months, he said no, but continued to tell me it cant be the battery, the batter is brand new. he wouldnt accept the info i just shared above. anyway, he brought his machine in, we replaced his battery. (it was a yuasa, still under the 6 month manufacture warrranty) and as soon as we got a new batter in and some fresh fuel it fired right back to life. protect you wallet, and go have fun!

feel free to add, change, or edit if you feel i mis-stated something.
what about solar cell chargers--would they keep the battery up enough?
 

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04 Sportsman 700, 04 Scrambler 500, 04 trail touring 550 sled
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what about solar cell chargers--would they keep the battery up enough?
Blueline hasn’t been around for awhile but I’m sure It wouldn’t hurt. You did what we call resurrected an old-ish forum so now someone with some battery know how will hopefully answer you.
 

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I have a 2013 850 efi ho. Parked in basement. Have it on a CTEC charger all the time. Start it about once a month, no issues. Today went to move it and nothing. Jump started with Interstate charger, and the 850 started and ran for 5 seconds and quit.
Did this Eight more times, even with me holding thumb throttle at 1500 rpm, IT DIED.
Took battery out, and it shows a full charge on volt meter. Battery is 4 years old.
Do I need a new battery?
Could it be the gas, do I need to Drain out the non-ethonal + stabil gas, and add new gas?
Any help appreciated.


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