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My Speedo and 4x4 stopped working a few years ago, I finally had a shop take a look at it he said the Hilliard clutches were bad in it. So we ordered a rebuild kit, finally got around to working on it myself. Started looking at different forum threads. Read about the by passes that so many people used and said it worked. I did what Old Polaris Tech said to do, cut the two brown wires at the small white connectors, twist in a wire to the common ground. I then checked the coil resistance 25 ohms each. Took apart the AWD switch cleaned reassembled, plugged the front coil back in. Used the new armature plates turned on key and slide run switch, the AWD light comes on, I checked the magnetism and armature plates are holding.
Just clarifying all my steps which are many, (might help someone else) I had read to measure across the coil housing, some said .0015 others .002 - .004 my right one was flush, left one -.005 -.006 so I adjusted it to .0025! Then I read last night that they can be flush.... grr...
I put in my new clutches then new bearing so the plate does not fall out, then hub, final bearing, washer and nut. Torque to 110 inch pounds, add the cotter pin, cap with silicone around the edge so water can not get in to the O ring even. Put in the ATF then start, in gear the back wheels turn, the front axles turn. Front wheels turn VERY SLOW ONLY SLOW CREEPING ROTATION. Tried reverse no light, held in the reverse override button, now I get a light but still no front wheel drive. Back to forward still not turning, however I did notice the left hub seems to wobble slightly but can not feel any problem!

Totally lost as to what to do now! HELP please if you have any knowledge in this.
The Polaris is a 2000 Sportsman 500 Remington Edition.
Thanks
 

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I have an '01 Sportsman that the right front hub was dry when I bought it last year. I've been fighting to get it working since. My issue seems to stem from the armature plate mating surfaces on the coil. I have a visible gap when laying a straight edge across the coil's inner and outer ring which doesn't allow the armature plate to have enough contact surface to drag on and engage the clutch. There could be too much gap between the plate and coil once the bearings are tightened also, or not enough magnetic strength to engage properly. It will lock up when I rev the engine in gear, but it would be nice to see it properly engage like the left side at low speed. My speedometer doesn't work either, but I haven't had to do any mods electrically to get the coils to have power.

There is a good write up on here how to rebuild everything in these 4wd clutch units. Mine has all new parts including the hub other than the strut housing, coil and outer ring. When I get the time I'll try again to get it working properly.

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