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Saturday I chased the truck down the road on foot frantically waving my arms until he stopped.
Great visual :burnout:

Not to distract from your tremendous rebuild, but I noticed in antoniodef's pic that the fuel pump on the 2011 is different from the 2010. I know I got a bad one, wonder if they made changes because others had problems too :thinking: I think they had used the previous style for many years too.
 

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Discussion Starter #43 (Edited)
In the first picture you can see how I routed the wiring harness under the frame rail. Years of off road racing has taught me that you can never have enough zip ties. The next shows my new ebay carburetor. I came with a choke, and throttle cable an $90 value. Next we have the handlebar support wiring. As you can see to the right of the fuse block, I added spare fuses tied to the frame. This ensures that I will never blow a fuse. The last picture shows how the harness routes around the frame rail. I was unsure how to run it. It would seem better to run it under, or through one of the multiple holes on the handlebar support. Instead I routed it according to the previous posters pictures. Next to arrive is the coolant tank, oil tank, and coil. After that I have inner belt guard, air box, handle bar switches, and a gas tank coming in. There is nothing more I can do except wait for Fed Ex. I'm at their mercy. Ski season starts soon, which means long nights making snow and wrenching on ski lifts will slow progress dramatically.

Amazingly the battery survived the entire ordeal unscathed. I hooked my trickle charger to it and it wouldn't take a charge. Next what the quick charger/starter. No charge. I figured the battery was junk. A friend of mine suggested to hook it to a good battery for a day or two, then hook it to the charger. I hooked it up yesterday, today I took it off the charger and it started my tractor. Another win for me.

Cheers.
 

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I stared at your pictures, and it is ran like mine. Whether that is the best way, who knows. The split loom holding the wire just ends about an inch into the bottom of the pod.

Not sure how the rest of your wiring is, but there is 2 power wires that Polaris has under the pod below the fuse access panel. They are very useful when connecting winches or heated grips. They only have power with the ignition on.

Speaking of grips, not sure if you have some. You mentioned you had new handlebars ordered, you could just put heated grips on since you going to need grips anyway.
 

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I admire your ambition. Your project is coming together at breakneck speed! I'm excited to see the finished product.

Peace
 

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Looks good. I did not notice anything earlier, but I hope you are not getting your parts through polaris. I love the machines polaris makes, but for getting parts through them, their company is a joke. Unbelievable what they charge for parts you can find for a fraction of their cost. Shop around for parts on the internet... you will save HUNDREDS of dollars.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
I have been getting most of my parts off of Ebay. I've been dealing with an Ebay store called Xtreme-Motors-08. This guy is good. Everything I ordered shipped quickly, and in excellent condition. His prices are hard to beat. Without this guy I would be dead in the water. I'm getting ready to place an order on BikeBandit.com for the little odds and ends I can't get anywhere else. Polaris prices are high, but that is to be expected. What has me mad is that I am unable to purchase individual pieces for my front master cylinder. Polaris plastic is expensive and hard to find. No aftermarket available. One thing at a time.
 

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I have found that partshark.com is cheaper than bike bandit and cheap cycle parts. Had to do a bunch of platics after I rolled mine. Excellent write up very interesting.
 

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Discussion Starter #50 (Edited)
Fed Ex says parts are delivered. I rush home. No parts. WTF Fed Ex? Fed Ex can go and suck a bag of dicks. This has been going on for years. They know where I live. I've called and gave them directions multiple times. There's like 20 houses in this town. All the driver had to do was drive down the road and kick the box out the fucking door. There is a 87.99% chance it would have landed on my porch. The house has only been here 150 years. You would think they would get it right by now. Anyway rant over. I checked out the website you guys mentioned. Parts Shark by far has the lowest prices. Rear fenders on BikeBandit $219, Cycle Parts Warehouse, $160, Parts Shark $156. It's a good thing, I was ready to place an order with BikeBandit. I know where I'm getting my parts from. :yuck:
 

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Maybe they delivered it to a neighbor on accident?

Forget to mention, I have a set of stock rate springs for your bike if you need them. I upgraded to HD spings with less than 5 hours because I mounted a plow. PM me if you are interested.
 

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Discussion Starter #52 (Edited)
Update. The Fire Duck now has an air box, and a gas tank. It now finally looks like an ATV instead of a burned out frame. While waiting for my parts from the Fed Ex debacle, I cleaned up the front master cylinder, and JB welded a new sight glass in the cover. Hopefully the brake fluid will not dissolve Lexan. While wire wheeling the burnt paint and plastic off of the cover, I accidentally wire wheeled the lettering off. It reminded me of the Seinfeld episode about Kruger Industrial Smoothing where they over-smoothed the head off of a statue. I tested the winch, which works perfectly. Win. Starter. Win. Oil pump. Win. I flushed the engine with ATF, then again with oil. There was some water that came out of the oil pump return. A little milky oil came out too. Tomorrow I will get some hose, pick up my oil tank, and flush the engine once more. I bought two oil filters for the flushing. Right now I'm waiting on a shipment of parts. Once I get my intake boot, I will be able to start up the Fire Duck.
 

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Looking good! you Should make a youtube video on your fist start up and Test drive!
 

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lookin good
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Well, the cooling system is done. Flushed and filled with coolant. The oil tank is installed and plumbed up. I removed the sump plug, and pumped a quart of oil through the engine. Halfway through the quart, the oil was running clear. After that, I reinstalled the sump plug and pumped oil into the engine until it came out the oil tank return hose. Once again the oil returned clean. I reconnected all the hoses, and filled the oil tank. Also, I installed all the handlebar controls. After consulting with a the machinist/fabricator/knowledgeable metal guy at work I decided to reuse the bars. After grinding the paint down I did not notice any discoloration of the metal. I think they will be fine. Right now I'm waiting on my intake boot and a motor mount. After that I think I will be able to finally start the fire duck. Does anybody know if you need the gauge assembly to start the machine? I now have all the headlights, brake lights, and side panels. It seems that the green front and rear fenders are more than the red ones. I'm going to go with the green.

Cheers.
 

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I've been thinking about what color to go with. Green or Red. Let me know you opinions.
Wow, I was just looking at the parts and the green plastics are almost double :shocked: I'd go red as a reminder of the fire that it saw and save yourself some green while you're at it (IMHO).
 

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Discussion Starter #58
WTF Partshark?????????????????

I'm a little peeved at partshark.com. I placed my order November 23. It's now December 5th. The haven't even shipped my parts yet. I'm waiting on a carb boot. I'm at a standstill. Can't start the machine with a 4 inch gap between the carb and cylinder. I've purchased parts for the Duck off of ebay, that arrived 3 days later. I think that 2 weeks is a bit excessive. F'em. I bet their going to ship Fed-Ex too so I get double screwed. It's fair to say that I will never order parts from slowshark.com again. Hopefully I will have my CV boot kits today. I purchased 2 Fast Boot kits (which I received on like 3 days)for the front joints, I will still however need 2 more as all 4 were melted.

Cheers.
 

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Yeah one thing I know is partshark has to wait for parts from Polaris then once they get there then they ship to you so sometimes it takes a bit. But they were really nice to work with and Jason took care of all the issues that arose when I dealt with them, I had a box that was damaged in shipment and they replaced it no problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
I purchased 2 fast boot kits from Ebay. They arrived in a timely matter unlike my stuff from Partshark.com. It's more like Partsnail.com. Anyway.......Thank god for a parts washer. Changing CV joints is a messy project. In the pictures below you can see the kit, and the dirty joint. Next is everything cleaned up and reassembled. The fourth picture is of importance because is shows a groove machined around the cage. This groove must face toward the axle shaft. Everything was in good shape with no scoring on the bearings or cages. The next picture shows the completed shaft. It was much easier than I anticipated to attach the bands.
 

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