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Discussion Starter #1
On past machines they dried out quick, then good to go. It's been 2 days and it barely moves. And prior to going in the mud hole I see what I think is a maintenance icon flash when I first start it? Any help appreciated. I should be able to go through mud/water to bottom of seat without this happening right?
 

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Its not going to dry out just sitting there unless you remove the drain plug in the clutch cover to get the water out and then run it in N till it gets hot to dry it. According to how deep you got you may need to seal the cover... and NO it won't go to the bottom of the seat unless you set it up to do that sorta thing. The clutch ducts are lower than that.
 

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yup your clutches are swimming.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Drained it, ran in park to heat it up. Let sit for a day. Repeated for 3 days and still same thing. Yesterday it wouldnt move at all, until I hit over 3000 rpms to brake it free then barely moved. So I ordered a rvs clutch kit and a new belt , figured if I'm going to take it apart mine as well upgrade it and a tuner as well from rvs. And some fender flares and a warn winch and mount. Should be a fun project.
 

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also look into sealing that clutch case up. there are some seals that the mud guys are running that are supposed to be better then OEM.
 

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Drained it, ran in park to heat it up. Let sit for a day. Repeated for 3 days and still same thing. Yesterday it wouldnt move at all, until I hit over 3000 rpms to brake it free then barely moved. So I ordered a rvs clutch kit and a new belt , figured if I'm going to take it apart mine as well upgrade it and a tuner as well from rvs. And some fender flares and a warn winch and mount. Should be a fun project.
Hmm, you got more going on than just a wet belt then. Keep us posted what you find when you get it opened up.
 

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If you like to go in the water that deep you're going to need to remove the primary and secondary clutches, then the inner clutch cover and seal it with some silicone before installing it back to the transmission. Get you a good set of snorkels as well as some airbox and clutch cover gaskets from OMC.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok we have it open as I just got my rvs clutch kit and tuner. When I went to move it i went to 3000 rpms to get it to just move and heard a clunk. Once it was moving it only took 2400 or so rpms to move again. Forgive my lack of mechanical know how but when he was working on the primary as watching rvs video to do this he had to slide the clutch in like on the video keeping the part with the weights outward. Ryan's slid in real wasy, mine took some umph. not sure if this info helps you guys. Hoping when back together it works as it should. And was some water still in their even after pulling the drain plug days ago. Thanks for any help
 

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Discussion Starter #10
My mechanic has it all back together. cleaned up everything in there, got it back together. Took it for a quick ride....its amazing. Engages at 1600, first ride with the tuner and tune and now clutch kit and holy crap what a improvement. Bottom end is ridiculous and pulls so hard. Cant wait to play with it. Thanks for all your help and input guys!
 

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Yep, water + a bare steel shaft + sitting a couple weeks wet rather than being properly dried out immediately = a rusted shaft = a sticky moveable clutch sheave = high initial rpm required to break it loose = "clunk" when it does finally break loose and then it works fairly smooth thereafter.
You can now expect the Teflon coated bearings to wear faster than they ordinarily would because of the now less-than-perfectly smooth shaft so be ready to service and perhaps rebuild the clutch in about 1500 to 2000 miles.... Simple!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yeah was starting to rust. He used brake cleaner and scrubbed it clean. Added a touch of oil on shaft and scrubbed it again. Works great as of now. Will get some trail time soon.
 
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