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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2012 500 ho, instead of expensive ps4 could I use regular 5w30 or does it have to be 4 stroke 5w30. Or I saw some people say mobile 0w40, is that 4 stroke oil or is that regular car oil? And is there another sparkplug thats better than the stock one that comes in it?

Thanks
 

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I would not go down to a 30 weight oil and yes Mobile 1 0W40 is a car oil and it works great. Stick with the NGK plugs. They are hard to beat.

Ronnie
 

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All cars have 4 stroke engines so it would be OK to use mobil 1 0w40.i dont think 5w30 would be to good for the engine becuase it calls for 0w40.:cowboy:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
All right thanks, yeah I didn't feel like driving a half hour away to polaris every time I needed oil, never mind the price of there oil too and I just picked up the NGK BKR6E plug
 

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All cars have 4 stroke engines so it would be OK to use mobil 1 0w40.i dont think 5w30 would be to good for the engine becuase it calls for 0w40.:cowboy:
You can run a 5W30 motor oil, as long as it's synthetic.
 

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I have mobile 1 0w40 I bought for the next oil change and I have made the switch to Iridium Plugs. I believe they were the NGK but not 100% sure without looking. I will get the numbers the next time i go out to the shed and post them!
 

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The ngk iridium # is BKR7EIX-2667. That is for a 2013 800 sportsman, The stock # was a champion rc7yc but I am not sure if the 500 uses the same plug as the 800.
 

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Oh my god people,DO NOT PUT CAR OIL IN ANY ATV. Car oil is designed for cars most of which hardly even break 4500 rpm, your atv reaches that in no time (unless your puttin along under 50km/hr). Car oil will break down a lot faster then a proper atv/motorcycle oil. Its a polaris so always use synthetic oil-ps4 or amsoil 0w40. We are talking about the life of your engine and they only take 1.9L of oil doesn't cost much. And as for spark plugs run an iridium plug and if you want better fuel economy index the spark plug so its pointing at the intake valves.
 

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Mobile 1 0-W40 is a full synthetic oil so it is fine for the ATV. Break down isn't a problem.
I recently picked up 5 quarts of it and a filter at AutoZone for $35. My auto zone just started stocking motorcycle filters too so I was able to get the right filter.
 

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Car oil is fine. Synthetic is synthetic. My car's redline is roughly that of a sportsman.

The only reason motorcycle oil exists is because try have a wet clutch. Automotive oil can cause issues with the clutch plates slipping or deteriorate the clutch material. Sportsmans do not have a wet clutch.


Sent from iPhone via Tapatalk
 

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I have to agree with the whole sythetic is synthetic, I could see if you were running a machine with the engine and transmission sharing the same oil but not these polaris's. On a side note, hows the new engine working out for ya Kicker? I dought ps4 oil would have saved your motor!
 

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Thanks for asking. Actually when I drowned the old one, it had PS4 in it. When I was cycling oil to try and save it, I grabbed Mobil 1 as that is what was available. So I am just sticking with it.
New motor is working our great, as are the new ball joints, and new bearings, and the new winch on the wife's to pull me out of whatever I get myself into. :)
 

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Oh my god people,DO NOT PUT CAR OIL IN ANY ATV. Car oil is designed for cars most of which hardly even break 4500 rpm, your atv reaches that in no time (unless your puttin along under 50km/hr). Car oil will break down a lot faster then a proper atv/motorcycle oil. Its a polaris so always use synthetic oil-ps4 or amsoil 0w40. We are talking about the life of your engine and they only take 1.9L of oil doesn't cost much. And as for spark plugs run an iridium plug and if you want better fuel economy index the spark plug so its pointing at the intake valves.
I am rebuilding the top end after a rather unfortunate oil leak led to a cylinder seizure. I have read in a lot of places to lhone the cylinder walls and use conventional oil during a ring “burn in” so that there’s enough friction to properly seat the rings. Being that these run synthetic, should I be switching back and forth? TIA for any advise
 

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Oh my god people,DO NOT PUT CAR OIL IN ANY ATV. Car oil is designed for cars most of which hardly even break 4500 rpm, your atv reaches that in no time (unless your puttin along under 50km/hr). Car oil will break down a lot faster then a proper atv/motorcycle oil. Its a polaris so always use synthetic oil-ps4 or amsoil 0w40. We are talking about the life of your engine and they only take 1.9L of oil doesn't cost much. And as for spark plugs run an iridium plug and if you want better fuel economy index the spark plug so its pointing at the intake valves.

I hate to do this, but this is just plain wrong information....RPM has ZERO to do with oil formulation. Car oil in your machine will work just fine, as will any quality synthetic. Powersports oil are formulated differently though, to provide increased protection under the conditions they see. As long as you're maintaining your equipment, engine life will be the same with either oil. Poor maintenance or abuse will kill it long before different oils will.

As to the spark plug, there is also ZERO advantage to running an iridium plug other than plug life. That's why they were designed in the first place. You can run one, but it's best to stay with what was originally in your machine. Also, indexing is useless. The ONLY REASON to index a spark plug is when you have piston to plug clearance issues. There is no gain of any kind to be had for doing this, and it's been proven time and time again. It's a waste of time, and the only way to index a plug is to use indexing washers, which will move the electrode out of the combustion chamber. This is not desirable, because depending on the threads in the head, can leave sharp edges exposed that can become hot spots creating issues with preignition.
 

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I am rebuilding the top end after a rather unfortunate oil leak led to a cylinder seizure. I have read in a lot of places to lhone the cylinder walls and use conventional oil during a ring “burn in” so that there’s enough friction to properly seat the rings. Being that these run synthetic, should I be switching back and forth? TIA for any advise
On a new engine, it should be broken in with conventional oil. Synthetic oil by it's nature is more "slippery" than conventional, and may result in the rings failing to seat. However.......most new ring designs and materials are already broken in by the time the engine is assembled. If you're going to hone it however, have it professionally done. Cylinder sleeve hardness, ring type and material, etc all come into play on ring seal, and if not done with the correct crosshatch and proper grit of abrasive, you'll either destroy the rings immediately on startup and it will burn oil forever, or they will never break in properly.....
 
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Most of these engines have plated bores and should not be honed for ring replacement.

I spoke extensively with reps of the the replating companies U.S. Chrome and Millennium Technologies - the plating used is so hard that it requires a diamond hone to hone the material. If you want to clean the bore you can use a green scratchy pad or a ball hone, but it is not a requirement for ring seating in a plated cylinder. I replace the piston & rings in my CRF every 30 hours - I have never used a hone or scratchy pad and it runs perfectly and oil consumption remains constant (the piston has one compression ring and the oil ring - the owners manual had a big WARNING stating that the engine USES OIL. It's a cost of racing!

The engine was broken in using Honda GN 10w40 mineral oil - after break-in, I switched to Silkolene 15w50 full synthetic oil - after I install a new piston, I fill with fresh 15w50 Silkolene and go racing - NO BREAK-IN REQUIRED AFTER THE INITIAL NEW ENGINE BREAK-IN with plated cylinders.

As to the oil, you can use whatever your little heart desires. Use synthetic or mineral, any multi-grade or straight weight of your choice. Use a diesel grade oil if you want (diesel oil can be used in gasoline engines, but you may not want to use a gasoline engine oil in a diesel). You may want to use a motor sports oil as the formulation is different. The most important thing about the oil is the API rating! You want to use an oil that is rated no higher than the engine manufacturer specifies. This thread started with a 2012 Sportsman 500 - the oil specified for this model vehicle is Polaris PS-4 Plus - Polaris does not publish or specify the API rating of this oil if it is indeed API rated. Amsoil 5w50 similarly does not have an API rating. Interestingly PS-4 5w50 is the standard grade oil @$12 a quart - the extreme duty PS-4 is a 10w50 @ $14 a quart.

Go to the Polaris lubricant website and check the oil recommendations for various Polaris products. Specifically anything other than an ATV/UTV - what lubricant is recommended for their snowmobiles, motorcycles, military vehicles or others? Every ATV, UTV, Razor, Ranger, ACE, General and Sportsman that I checked has a total of two products recommended - 5w50 and 10w50 PS-4 - no other options and nothing specified for the other products. So I guess you can use any lubricant of your choice in all other products, but only Polaris PS-4 in the off road products.

Yes - a manufacturer may create their own muilt-grade lubricant or even adjust the range of viscosity of the oil based on an arbitrary 'scale'. Go to any automotive supply and get a bottle of 80/90w gear oil and shake it - then go to a Honda shop and shake a bottle of 80/85w two stroke transmission oil - you will find the Honda 80/85 is about the same viscosity as ATF - ATF has an approximate viscosity of 7w - I used ATF in my two stroke transmissions since the 60's - Dodge used ATF in their manual transmissions - my older brother is a Journeyman mechanic - he was working in a Chrysler/Plymouth dealership and I was visiting while he was servicing a Plymouth Fury with a manual transmission - he pulled the plug out of the gearbox and thin red oil came out - I asked him why the oil was thin and red - I had 80w90 Hypoid in the tranny of my 65 Mustang - he told me Dodge and Plymouth had used ATF in their manual transmissions for years - I switched the oil in the Mustang to ATF and found it shifted better and was not sluggish when below zero. The only difference in a auto and manual tranny is the auto has multi-plate wet clutches and pumps. The tranny in my two stroke had gears and a clutch - just no pump.

But any oil is better than no oil - in a pinch, I would put ATF in an engine.
 

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I own a mercury mercruiser, Yamaha Waverunner, the Polaris ATV and I hope a 2020 Yamaha snowmobile in March. I hear the same old debate in all of these forums, and in my opinion for the number of times (frequency) you change your four cycle oil, if you can't afford the overpriced OEM oil then don't own the powersport. It's that simple. Oil is the blood of your engine. I could compare and debate SAE/UPI approvals, etc, etc, but make it simple, just shop for a lowest price OEM oil you can find for your model of ATV. AND your car and lawnmower is not a powersport (usually)
 
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