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Discussion Starter #1
I tore the boot on my right rear shaft....well I went to change it andsome of the ball bearing in cv joint were gone an the shaft fell out..leaving the cup stuck in rear end..I tried for hours to get it off...no room to realy pry it an plus afraid to bust the rear end casing....sprayed lots of PB blaster in there also...any one have an idea to get this off...the shop manual does not show this problem,,,lol....

so all thats left in rear end is the CV cup....any help would be great,.....funny thing I changed a dozen shafts on my other machines....bt this never happened....

Thanks

Al
 

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I vise gripped a dent puller (slide hammer) to it, and used the slide weight to drive it out.

Sean
 

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I agree, slide hammer with a 3 jaw puller attachment. If the jaws wont hold in the groove of the cv joint,try a section of 5/16" hose and a 4" hose clamp, put the hose in groove and install and tighten the hose clamp over the hose-smashing it-, this gives you a little more of an area for the jaws to grab onto, 4-5 whacks and it's out.
 

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just to let u know whats happening, the snap ring gets rusted and becomes a mother to get out. and it sux how the axel is recessed in the trans/rear diff housing. u were rite to not put much pressure on the housing because thats been known to crack. another thing you could do is tip the bike on a 45 deg. angle and soak it with PB. then use some sort of slide hammer configeration.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i am going to rent a slide hammer tomorrow....and try at it...I may use a muffler clamp around the bell to use as a pull point..or the vise grip trick...then order a tool online for cv joints...67.00....good to have after this,.....I could of spent that much on beer an liquor being so fustrated.....here is a link to a tool a guy made...I may just get the 10 LB slide hammer an make this for further ventures on CV shafts..lol....I am to old to be doing this stuff..60...but love to ride...and party with the best...part 2 tomorrow...and thanks so far..keep your ideas coming....great people here....
http://s539.photobucket.com/user/Harvey1995Z28/media/Polaris/DSC_0258.jpg.html?sort=3&o=9

Semper Fi
Al
 

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If you get get the other axle out you can knock it out that way. Pull the other axle and get a piece of pipe small enough to run in there and but up to the back side of the cup in the housing and hit it with a hammer. Pops out every time.

Ronnie
 

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If you get get the other axle out you can knock it out that way. Pull the other axle and get a piece of pipe small enough to run in there and but up to the back side of the cup in the housing and hit it with a hammer. Pops out every time.

Ronnie
this does not work on all quads. Tried it on one of mine and broke the axle carrier in the diff because there was not a hole all the way through. Not a cheap part to replace...

Sean
 

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Discussion Starter #8
thanks every one..I rented a slide puller from advanced auto....made my on jig to pull the cup...used a muffler clamp and chain combo...one yank and it popped right off like it was nothing....right tools make it easy....

Now I went to do the other one and the wheel hub rear bearing race was stuck on the shaft....left it be for now since shaft was good...now my question is..the bearings in there were ball bearing....ones I am looking at on line look like a sealed bearing..did they change it to sealed roller bearings...

Al
 

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Great info because I know I will be doing this soon and my is an '05 so it is probably welded in by now. Nice job on that homemade slide hammer cup, what do you think would be the right weight slide hammer for this job? Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
the one i rented from Advanced auto parts was 5 pounds...I bought 2 feet of welded link chain at Lowes....I used a 3 1/2 exhaust clamp...I put a link on each side of clamp..making a loop..the fit the base of the clamp on and tightened it up....the puller came with lots of attachments..i found one that fit thru the link ....bolted it on ..1 pull it was off....

best thing to do is to spray it daily a few times for 2 days before you do it....use PB Blaster...let it cut the rust some....good luck

Al
 

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I just use pry bars. With some patience and beer they will come out. There isnt a hole lot of room in there. Two prybars simultaneously can get the job done.
 

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I ended up tacking about an 18" piece of iron on the cup (on the outside, past where the boot seals) with a flat end on it so I could hammer the bugger off... Worked. Rebuilt both joints, replaced both boots and that axle is still together today. Also just tonight I was replacing a front wheel bearing and decided to remove the whole strut.. In doing so found a slack ball joint and Noticed lots of play in front diff (sloppy axle shafts) so went to pull out front axle, had it straight and inner cv seperated on me. Frig. Guess I'll be doing it again soon.
 

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I used an air chisel and a couple of quick raps and off it came on my 04 700
 

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I used an air chisel and a couple of quick raps and off it came on my 04 700
we used a air chiesel and it didnt do anything but scar the hell out of my differential case. wat are quick raps?
Quick raps are a quick squeeze on the trigger (2 or 3 cycles of the chisel) I didn't want to scar it up, so a couple of raps on one side moved 90* and a couple more moved another 90* and it worked it's way out. One the one side I used a pry bar on the off side of the air chisel while I worked my way around this helped it to remain square as it came out rather than bind on an angle. I think slow go and not holding in one spot is the way to go, I also sprayed some WD40 in behind the best I could.
 

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I took a small ratchet strap wrap it behind the axle at the diff hook the other end to a arm tighten it then a couple taps on the axle cup and pops off every time. Of course after soaking with WD-40
 
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