Polaris ATV Forum banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Its time i think to replace my rear u-joints. I have had noise and clicking now forever and im sure its my front axles and i have new ones on the way. I changed the front prop shaft u-joints after getting the wrong joints the first time ( i need the outside clips). How big of a job is it to change the rear driveshaft joints? Im away at work for a few more days so i cant look at the machine and see what type of joints it has but im assuming they will be the same as the front, outside clips. I read that the rear diff needs to be unbolted and slid ahead, is this true? the front shaft was easy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
253 Posts
Just take out the four bolts and it comes right out. You have to rotate the shaft to each bolt to get at it but it is not to hard. I jacked mine up and took off the rear wheels to get at things.

D
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
8,879 Posts
2009-2017 all use the same rear prop shaft and have inner clips.
Here's a page full you can look for yourself.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I just found a place at home that has a bunch of all balls joints in stock, ill grab them when i get home and get them in and try and get all this clicking and clunking to go away.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
8,879 Posts
Its a Polaris with some miles so its gonna have some clicking and clunking lol.
Check how much play you have in the yoke splines. After a lot of miles they will have to be replaced to tighten the drive line up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Its a Polaris with some miles so its gonna have some clicking and clunking lol.
Check how much play you have in the yoke splines. After a lot of miles they will have to be replaced to tighten the drive line up.
Yeah i know its a 2011 but there are only 600 miles on it i think, and very well maintained.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
253 Posts
If you are getting clicking from the rear, I would be checking the CV joints. I had a bad one on my 2012 850 almost from the day I got it. It got way worse after one winter of plowing snow. I noticed it with the weight on the front end lifting the plow and the back end lifted higher in the air causing more angle on the rear axles. Backing up, it would click. Louder and louder all winter. In the spring, I installed Rhino axles and the problem went away.

I installed the Rhino axles on my 2015 850 shortly after purchase and use it for plowing with no problems.

D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
If that's all the miles its got why are you replacing u-joints?
My front u-joints failed and had play so i might as well change these too. Im not home right now to actually lay hands on them but the clunk im hearing from the rear is like play in the driveshaft or gear lash, any clicking noise i would think would be the axles but i have new fronts on the way because those are very loud. I will change the rear axles if i have to after the joints but the noise just doesnt sound like axles. When going down a loose hill of braking down a loose hill there is alot of clunking from the rear end, like play in the rear shaft.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
This machine was very lightly used and not often. I bought in new in 2012. approx 600 miles on it and have replaced all wheel bearings, all ball joints, all u-joints except rear driveshaft and tie rod ends. Not all of each were bad but since it was apart doin on i did them all.Buddy i ride with has an 800 outlander and another guy with a 650 outlander. Both are 2015's i think and they are smooth as can be with no clicking and clunking and they have never had this axle and joint issue. I know this because they store their bikes in my garage. Theirs have over 2000 miles. Its frustrating at times.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
I forgot that i also replaced every bushing on it with an upgraded style that a board member was selling, they didnt really need to be done that bad but i did it anyway because they are a terrible design and i kept reading about how fast they fail.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
8,879 Posts
I gotcha OP. Never hurts to be proactive and improve where you can.
I always install greaseable joints when the OEM's need replaced. If you keep them lubed they'll last way longer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
253 Posts
I gotcha OP. Never hurts to be proactive and improve where you can.
I always install greaseable joints when the OEM's need replaced. If you keep them lubed they'll last way longer.
OP,
Sounds like you got a good handle on it.
Not that this could be making any noise, but have you updated your front ball joints? In years prior to 2012 they had a short stem on them and they would come loose and wobble out the aluminium knuckle. Pretty easy to change while you are updating things. You can tell if they have then new longer stem if it protrudes above the knuckle. The lowers is what caused the problems.
My buddies 2010 had the short ones and it cost him lots extra to fix. If he would have just installed the longer ones he would have been fine. There was also an airbox update that was causing oil in his airbox too. Don't know if it applied to the 2011.

D
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top