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Now for the outer joint. It requires the exact same process except:
1. The retaining ring does not have tabs. It is a pressure ring and will close itself far enough to come out of the groove in the race IF you pull hard enough. I find it helpful to put the shaft in a vice and tap the joint with a hammer to pop it off.
Thanks for the illustrations!
There seem to be variations between the shafts, as my outer joint [on an aftermarket CV axle for the 1998 Sportsman 500, I assume it's a 1999 axle] has the same tabbed clip you show on your inner joint. I first did not see this clip and thought I could just knock the stub off, as I could with the front axles. So better to check if this expansion clip is there before destroying the bearing. The compression c-clip is much easier to work with.

Do you have any suggestion on what the longest lasting boots are. I would assume it depends on the mixture of the rubber. Silicone or neoprene content? Whenever I get something out of rubber made in China and it has that nasty smell (not like rubber used to smell) to it, I find it does not last very long.
 

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Plunger removal

Kicker,
I pulled out the cv joint and the plunger is still in the rear end what's the best way to get it out.

When I cut the boot I saw that the race was almost 90 to plunger so I beat it back (with 2x4)to get cv arm out. I have all the bearing but the outer race looks a little worn. What do you think is to worn to rebuild, I don't want to do it if its just going to fall apart again.
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
I have rebuilt them without ever getting the "cup" (as I call it) out of the rear end. So unless you are going to change it entirely, I say rebuild it in place. Getting the ends out of the differentials is the hardest job I have come across yet.

If you really need to get it out... soak with PB blaster for a few days, clamp some vise grips on it after wedging a pry bars behind it. Pull the vice grips while forcefully prying, with a second pry bar on the opposite side from the first pry bar. The idea is to get tension on the joint with the first pry bar, then a sudden force on the other side to finish popping it out (it also helps to ensure it is coming out straight and therefore not binding itself.)

If that wont do it, I have had to pull the other side out and drive it our from the opposite side.

As far as whether it is too worn, I can't say. Even photos wouldn't help with that. Without getting hands on it, and feeling how it moves, and if it has any burrs, I can't say. You could try putting it back together with the same race and bearings and seeing how freely it moves. If, after that, you feel like it is just going to fall apart again, I probably would get a new one.
 

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This is way I was looking for! Thanks!
I have 2 questions though...
1. I am rebuilding the inner joint on the front of a 06 sportsman. Doe the larger diameter end of the cage face into the cup or out? 2. How do I know when I havfepugh grease in but not to much?
 

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I am out of words for this repair! I'm having a hard time just getting 4 bearings in. Does anyone have a trick other then just being patient and trying over and over again! I'm losing my hair because of this!
 

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Maverick, I forgot which way that inner housing goes but it is the way that allows the nost deflection of the axle. Just look at it from that point of view. The grese, I'm not sure you can put in too much, it;s about the same as a small travel size tooth paste tube.
John
 
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