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My open-sided 3 place snowmobile/atv trailer is ready to have the decking replaced. When I cinch down on the tie-down loop that are imbedded in the decking, it pulls the decking up, as the wood is no longer strong enough. The screws into the frame just pull through the wood. Maybe I should "overdue" instead of "ready". I do most of my hauling in another enclosed trailer. But it's a big 4 place, so I this little open trailer is way easier to use for short little runs around town.

So my question is what to use for decking material. Live in MN, so it sees some salt in the winter - but not tons, since we've got the enclosed trailers for any of our longer runs. Will simple green treated plywood be sufficient? 1/2" or 5/8"? Thoughts? Suggestions?

Thanks in advance.
 

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My little trailer is due for a decking replacement as well, mine originally came with 5/8" treated plywood and sometime during its life it was replaced with 3/8. I plan to go back with 5/8 if I can't find aluminum sheeting that I want.
 

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I'd say 5/8th is a bare minim in thickness. What about 3/4? We used this in building const, or course treated, quite a bit. Here in the UP, we can get 3/4 untreated that is a much nicer product since the treated sheets has voids in it, left and right. Seems the plain 3/4 plywood was less costly and of course, you'd need to put a good deck chemical treatment on it.
 

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I used 3/4 GP Drymax from Menards on my clamshell. My new hybrid is also 3/4 GP Drymax.

One thing..Use new stainless steel screws..Treated wood isn't compatible with all types of fasteners. I just through bolted mine.
 

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I’d suggest 3/4” AB marine grade pressure treated plywood available at Home Depot. Use stainless fasteners and it will outlast you and your machines.
 

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I’d suggest 3/4” AB marine grade pressure treated plywood available at Home Depot. Use stainless fasteners and it will outlast you and your machines.
Marine plywood is very expensive.
It’s all relative. You can go cheap and replace the plywood sooner or spend a bit more and not worry about it. When you look at the job to change the decking vs the additional cost to go with Marine grade, I’d take the more expensive option.
 

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GP Drymax is only $30 a sheet or so. Since this is used for snow, also consider replacing the axle bolts and coupler bolts with new grade 8 yellow ones.
 

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OSB is not made to last outside, in weather. It is designed to the covered with something. Personally, I stick with plywood product.
 

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Marine grade is expensive and Home Depot Marine Grade has poor reviews. If I bought marine grade I’d buy elsewhere. I did replace mine last June with a 5/8” Douglas Fir Exposure 1 plywood.I think it was about $40 both sheets. It had been replaced earlier with 3/4” but again needed replacement. It originally came with 5/8” and is plenty strong and lighter. What makes marine grade plywood marine grade is not the wood but the glue that binds the veneers. So for a finish on mine I routed edges to a bull nose to keep from fraying and 2 coats of “Titebond III” wood glue on both sides, not Titebond one or two. Titebond III is waterproof. It’s cheap enough and is bulletproof on wood. I’ve seen epoxy that gets slippery when wet on wood. This finish isn’t.
 

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just my two cents, live in Montana and all of my trailers have one and a half inch decking on them. Since I change my own oil I use used engine oil on the decking give it a good coat in the spring and fall and lasts through the winter just fine, had a little utility trailer that I used for 20 years, never replaced the deck boards once
 

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less than 2 years outside is not gunna cut it on a trailer.

Decking choice and coating choices are always a give take. Just know what you're getting into. if you go cheaper, you'll replace more often. being aware of your local weather conditions, and where the trailer will be stored is important as well.

I'd say 5/8" is the minimum I'd go, but I'd be more likely to go 3/4" or 1" if I'm using sheeting. Plywood or solid boards, no OSB or similar for a deck surface.

strongly recommend using commerically treated materials vs self application products.

But if you really want to never have to re-deck, you could always get the boards/sheets Line-x/Rhino lined. though that would definitely be on the expensive side.
 

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Why not just get 5/4 X 6 PT or 2x6 decking cheap fast done. (Getting it from the lumber yard is better quality,stronger, then big box stores)
Out of the other options 3/4" P/T plywood wood be the best bet(see the pun there?wood :grin I kill myself)
Pressure treated ply wood is weak (loses ALOT of strength in the process)1/2" is definitely a NO .,,,5'8" I wouldn't trust ,,,3/4" might work.I guess that would depend on the stringer distance.My trailers have 3 or 4 ft spans so plywood wouldnt work.
(and if it was my PJ U8 14) I would use Mahogany or IPE only because I have butt loads of it.
Advantech is Stronger then GP Drymax
Advantech has a better water resistance then GP Drymax
Advantech has the least moisture absorption,but it will still absorb water in a month .
With that said they are water resistant .Thats it .They both give you 500 days to get your job sealed up.
Marine grade from HD,Lowes,( anything in $75-$100 range) sucks.How they get to call M/G is by bear minimum standards.Iv never cut one sheet that didn't have voids
you have to seal it a couple times a year
 

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I trust 5/8 plywood. My trailer came with 5/8 plywood. Where both Atv’s sit on trailer the plywood has aluminum beams directly underneath(cross beams also). There is no flex in the plywood. It’s designed to be lightweight, yet strong where it needs strength. I ride mostly in northern NH, over 400 miles round trip hauling 2 Atv’s weighing over 1500 lbs. Decking mine with 5/4 is overkill and a waste of gas for me. Depends on OP’s needs for trailer. If he uses trailer as an all purpose trailer maybe 5/4 would be better for him.
 

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sounds like this is OP's secondary trailer, and the enclosed trailer is primary. so Best bet says this one get's the cheap treatment.

as for 5/4 that's just as dependent on the span if not more so than using plywood. I wouldn't go more than 24" OC spans with 5/4 and I think code for decking in some areas even calls for 18" OC on 5/4. and frankly, you're going to have a greater point load on a trailer than you would on most decks. not to mention the dynamic loads.

My cross members are 24" OC and I've got 2x6 treated decking. (6x14x7000GTW Tandems axle)
 

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Well I just happening to be rebuilding my trailer right now too. My deck is 2X6 Pressure treated and bolted right through with 3/8 galvanized bolts. This deck is over 20 years old. However two of my side rails are rusting through. Not bad for 26 years old. i originally built the trailer with 3/4 inch pressure treated plywood. That lasted less than 5 years. Now the sides are 3/32 steel and the deck is 2X6 pressure treated Had the rails welded back in yesterday now waiting for the rain to stop so I can finish.
The cross members are 2x2 x 1/4 steel 16" o/c with 2 1/2 inch angle side rails tongue is 3x3 and springs are f150(only use for a ford I can find). Axle is homemade as well.
Its rated for 2000# but I have had a lot more than that on it.
I would go with the 2x6 again in a heartbeat and would not even consider plywood of any kind. If you look at new commercial trailers they use dimensional lumber as well. The enclosed trailers tend to be some type of plywood. What does that tell you?
I also thought about the linex as well. The problem is its not a new trailer. Any rust under the linex will be unseen and may rust through. If you dont notice until its too late, that might be a problem. So rust paint it is.
 

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Legend, Stealth, and R&R use 3/4 GP Drymax. Works fine for my 12' enclosed trailer with 2 sportsman 570s' and a bunch of other junk to come with.
 
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