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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all, I'm new here, and I just got a 2003 Sportsman 700.

I've done some searching the forum and the web to no avail. I just got it running again, but the shifter won't move at all.

I've taken the cover off behind the shift linkage and checked the gears behind. The lockout (from brake) was rusted in the disengaged position, so I worked it free and put anti-sieze lubricant over it all before reassembling. I'd like to not have to go through the entire transmission removal procedure if I can avoid it.

Not sure if anyone else has had a similar issue, and if so, perhaps, there is a way to get the shifter to move out of Neutral that I'm missing. I'm a motorcycle mechanic, so I'm pretty savvy with this stuff usually, but I just have no knowledge of this machine.

Thank you for any and all advice.
 

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Does the shaft going into the transmission rotate at all, with the machine not started and the cover off you should be able to move the gears with the bell crank and by hand. Is there any thing jammed up in the gears or is there teeth missing? You don't really need the lock out pin assembly it just prevents going into high or reverse while moving, it wouldn't cause hard shift unless ceased in lock position.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I don't want to crank on it too hard, but no. The shaft going into the Trans isn't moving with everything open and using channel locks.


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Does the lock out shaft engage the lockout (detente) gear you lubed with anti-seize?? As something looks a little funny in your picture..... I'm thinking your issue is internal to the transmission, not the lockout device. In the picture, you shouldn't see the black around the shaft, for lack of a better explanation..... as it looks like the "D" shaft has dis-engaged the lockout gear (slid inside the transmission) as you can now see the black shadows of the transmission interior.



Is there any fluid in the transmission? I'm guessing it will need to be pulled, disassembled, cleaned up (like the rusty lockout) and reassembled / installed to function properly. Not knowing the machines history and how long it's sat?!?! :dunno:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Seller said it sat for a little over a year. Judging by all the rust, mud and debris everywhere it could be on this thing it was not taken very well care of.

Not sure the specific purpose of the star gear that goes over the gear indicator shaft and the lever with the spring, but just noticed those were never there. Trans is full, but on the list of fluids to flush and replace. It's pretty nasty.

Thank you for the responses. In true "bang your head on the wall" fashion, I decided to use vice grips and see if I could free the frozen shaft. After some cursing it did free up, and does sloppily move through what I imagine is Park, Reverse, Neutral and High. My best educated guess is the star gear coupled with the spring loaded lever is what gives the stop points in between gears. Without it, the shift lever will slightly pause in what feels like each gear position, but it doesn't stop at each one as I would imagine it should.

Gotta love projects, and for $600 I hope it's not going to be too much of a bear to get in a reliable running condition.

:thanks:
 

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I'm going to guess it's jammed up inside, you may want to check the driven side and see if it's stuck as well. Sounds like it may be a trip inside the trans. or fill it with penetrating lube and hope you can free it up? A long shot but the only alternative is going in!!
If you look around you may be able to find a used trans for cheap would save you with a tear down.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Today's project is going to be clutch side. Thanks for the input guys.

Glad it's finally snowing. Now to get this finished before the lakes freeze.

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Correct, the 'star gear' is what created the positions for each gear.

But, it sounds like your getting things freed up and moving.... may not be a bad idea to drain the fluid and flush the case a couple times with some type of penetrating oil as mentioned. While it's soaking I'd checking the clutch side as well. Maybe even remove the belt, jack up the rear end, put it in a gear and turn the tires or secondary (driven) clutch. Then drain and fill with the recommended fluid/oil.

Do you have a service manual for the machine? If not I may have a pdf copy I could 'lend' you. ;)

God Luck!! :fing02:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I bought the pdf, but thanks. Polaris said it was okay to use redline transmission fluid, so after flushing I put that in. Seems to drive okay, but pops out of gear and into N while driving and I have to shut it off to go from reverse to drive

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I bought the pdf, but thanks. Polaris said it was okay to use redline transmission fluid, so after flushing I put that in. Seems to drive okay, but pops out of gear and into N while driving and I have to shut it off to go from reverse to drive

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It may be that the belt is still grabbing, maybe too high on the rpm or the belt needs replacing or the one way in the drive clutch is not working?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Update:

Got her idling around 1150 +/- 50. Ordered a new throttle cable (even after much lube it still sticks occasionally), ordered a new belt and the missing parts from inside the bellhousing.

One way in drive clutch is working as it should and clutch seems to be working as well. Even at 1100 RPM the belt is engaged, which is why I ordered a new one.

Thanks again for the thoughts. More brains help problems go away lol.

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