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I,m new here hoping for some answers. My 06 Ranger 700EFI will not accelerate. Idle is ok but rough. Plugs were fouled black but new plugs did not help TPS was replace five years ago. Injectors were checked and cleaned a year ago. Fuel pressure is about 36PSI and holds constant on acceleration. When I try to accelerate it bogs and pops back through the intake. Blink codes are 21 and 61 . My book does not show a code 61. Any thoughts will help.
 

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Black spark plugs indicate rich condition. 36psi of fuel pressure seems low. Injectors and TPS replacement or checking last year or 10 years ago don't really mean anything. I would start at the beginning and test as if it's a new problem. Parts can fail without warning.
 

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Ok , injectors are going to be serviced tomorrow and will go from there.
To my knowledge, there is no "service" that can be done on the injectors of that machine. All you can do is replace them.
code 21 = loss of synchronization
code 61 = end of diagnostic check
In other words, 61 means "The End" lol
I'd guess you probably have either a bad crank position sensor or a frayed/damaged harness or connector thereto.
 

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Thanks , when I get the injectors back from the place where they test and clean them , I will check the crank position sensor and the harness to it . Thanks for the tip !
 

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LOL... Ok. I thought you were talking about getting them out to clean yourself. I always just replaced them as I wouldn't have thought it would be cost effective to try to have them refurbished. Learn something new on here every day. (y)
 

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Black spark plugs indicate rich condition. 36psi of fuel pressure seems low. Injectors and TPS replacement or checking last year or 10 years ago don't really mean anything. I would start at the beginning and test as if it's a new problem. Parts can fail without warning.
LOL... Ok. I thought you were talking about getting them out to clean yourself. I always just replaced them as I wouldn't have thought it would be cost effective to try to have them refurbished. Learn something new on here every day. (y)
Cost 18.50 to have them cleaned and flow tested. they were dirty and stuck wide open. Sugestion was same as someone else that I check the intake manifold for delamination and install a fuel filter as this one only has a sock in the fuel tank . We will see what I find. Also told to clean throttle bore and reset tps.
 

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Those are all good suggestions. The intake/throttle body on the older parallel twins dirty up the intake somewhat. Apparently they pulse/puff back into the intake, for whatever reason. Maybe leaky valves? I've seen several with built-up soot and carbon on the engine side of the throttle body. They looked clean as a whistle from the air box side but would be nasty when you removed the TB and looked at the other side.
 

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Well latest update. Removed and cleaned the throttle body -- it was a bit dirty but not terrible. Inspected and cleaned itnake tubes and intake prefilters in front of vehicle. They were dirty but again not terrible. Checked tps with multimeter and it is smooth with no gaps. Only code in computer is 21 - cannot correlate.
i'm going to get a better fuel pressure gauge to see it pressure does stay up under high speed. No codes for crank position sensor or vss and no tools to test them. Disconnected positive cable from battery for five min. with nor effect.
 

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eWell I got a good fuel injection gauge and it shows 20 psi tops and drops off to zero when reved up. I have heard that some foreign car pumps are possible replacements. Antone have the possible models of cars ?
 

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Well I finally have a fuel pump and regulator and assorted o-rings. Does anyone know how the power wire disconnects from the fuel pump mount? I do not want to break it with excess force - it does not rotate or lift straight up with moderate force?
 

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It just unplugs like all the other electrical connectors on that machine. It'll have a little locking tab that needs pressed and then it pulls apart. Here's a video of a 500 Ranger but your 700 will be exactly the same.
 

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Not sure what you mean by "lift up" or "rotate" the connector is in the wire harness leading to the pump. Not ON the pump assembly.
 

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It just unplugs like all the other electrical connectors on that machine. It'll have a little locking tab that needs pressed and then it pulls apart. Here's a video of a 500 Ranger but your 700 will be exactly the same.
Ok I can find an in line connector. I was wanting to disconnect wire at mounting plate. Thanks
 
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