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Discussion Starter #1
First of all this is my first post to the forum so thanks for the acceptance.

I have a 2004.5 Sportsman 500HO with EBS. I bought this piece of crap for nothing a 2g's later, I have essentially a new bike.

I've been trying to adjust the tension on the drive belt since it wants to creep after it warms up.

Two questions:
1. I have the secondary apart but it will only accept one shim before I am not able to get the snap-ring back on the outside shiv. Are you supposed to install a thinner shim beneath the helix to offset adding in the center.

2. When I pulled it apart I was smart enough to mark the relationship between the helix and inner shiv but not the outer shiv. I'm assuming this is all balanced as one assembly. Any idea on how to make sure it is oriented correctly to the inner shiv and helix or does it not matter.

This is clutch 1322408
 

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Welcome to the board.
 

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Welcome. If the belt is creeping at idle then you have another issue other than deflection with EBS. One way bearing may be going out, the washers next to it could be worn out, clutch alignment could be off (spacers or motor mounts), Bushings in the primary worn out, primary sticking and not opening up all the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The bike creeps forward since the secondary is trying to spin . The primary was just rebuilt and alignment is right. I just dont have enough play. The bigger issue is the balance if I reassemble it
 

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Discussion Starter #7
not to insult your intelligence here but have you checked your motor mounts? had to ask. good luck
none taken. Im wondering that myself but not sure how to tell. I just rebuilt the engine so I could have torqued something. Right now I need to figure out the shiv orientation I have an x on the inner shiv and helix but not the outer
 

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If you have an EBS clutch, the belt is quite tight. Maybe 1" of belt deflection. If your bike is creeping,it's the primary clutch doing that. You may have issues with your secondary , but try to fix your primary clutch first.
Check to make sure the belt is in the centre of the primary clutch sheaves. Since you did work to the engine, you may have moved ,or removed the lower motor mount which helps center the belt and keep it centered on the primary, or you an add shims "behind" the secondary clutch to align the belt better.
I have a 2001 500 HO and have played with my clutch a few times.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
If you have an EBS clutch, the belt is quite tight. Maybe 1" of belt deflection. If your bike is creeping,it's the primary clutch doing that. You may have issues with your secondary , but try to fix your primary clutch first.
Check to make sure the belt is in the centre of the primary clutch sheaves. Since you did work to the engine, you may have moved ,or removed the lower motor mount which helps center the belt and keep it centered on the primary, or you an add shims "behind" the secondary clutch to align the belt better.
I have a 2001 500 HO and have played with my clutch a few times.
I just rebuilt the primary but you are right, there is only about an inch of deflection. The more I look at it, I think it is an isolator issue. I check alignment with a Polaris tool and did add shims to correct. That helped a lot. When looking at the two rear motor mounts, the one towards the belt has a washer on top but the one towards the pull start does not. I'm thinking it may be cocked a bit. I just ordered all new isolators so we will see if that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So motor mounts where replaced and everything is aligned correctly. It seems like if I take the bike up to speed and then slow down it will disengage. However, if I barely move the bike, like under 5 MPH, and then let off it will not disengage. Has to be the EBS. Is there a way to disable it? Can I replace the secondary with a non EBS?
 

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You should take a picture or video of where your belt is sitting when the engine is idling. Rev it up and down with the clutch cover off and watch what the belt does. If your bike is creeping, then the belt "isn't" riding in the "center" of the primary clutch at idle. It's either rubbing the inside or outside sheave of the primary clutch to make the belt turn. Adding or taking away shims from "behind" the secondary clutch helps align the belt so it will ride in the middle of the primary clutch at idle. The belt has to always return to the middle of the primary clutch at idle. Replacing worn motor mounts will help keep your alignment consistent. You can also adjust your motor (primary clutch) from side to side to help align the belt. You should have seen the adjustment slot where your lower motor mount bolts down.
Also, the washers on either side of the grooved pulley on your primary clutch get worn so the grooved pulley has too much side to side play and makes the belt ride in the wrong groove. I just had to rebuild my primary clutch too with the same creeping issue.
EBS function is mainly in your primary clutch. To change back to non EBS, buy a non EBS primary clutch, then buy a non EBS belt and you're good to go.
 

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I agree with the others, belt creep is most likely in the primary clutch. You didn't say who rebuilt the primary so I will just tell you what I learned from experience. I took on a primary clutch for a buddy of mine. 2005 Sportsman 500HO with EBS which was dragging the belt. Dealership had replaced the washers 3 times and said he had to buy a new clutch. The washers/shims on the inside and outside of the EBS one way clutch were shot. Replaced them, weights, shafts, bushing, spring and buttons. Seemed fine at the time, but we were not able to drive it then. First time he tried to plow snow it took about 10 minutes before it started dragging the belt again. Although it does not make sense, the steel cup, I think Polaris calls it a spacer, was cupped and grooved (about .005 from center to the outside) where the brass washer on the outside of the one way clutch rides inside it. This caused the steel spacer to trash the brass washer just that fast. Replaced that 27 dollar part, new washers and no issues since. We just came back from 300 miles of riding in northern Wisconsin with no complaints.

If you are thinking new clutch, look at Parts Ace. I got a complete non EBS clutch (it was missing) for my 325 Magnum project for about $375 shipped to my door. Looks identical to the Polaris unit.
 
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