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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, I do know that the positive battery cable is kind of half split apart at the eyelet connection, but even with that I still used to get power to my heads up display, now I don't and it just won't start.

I'm thinking it might be a fuse, as when I installed a new battery a couple weeks ago, I accidentally flipped the positive and negative terminal for a few seconds before I figured that out...

Is there a fuse box on these things? Which fuse is likely to pop in such an instance?

It won't start at all now after this, so I'm hoping it's an easy fix, but this is the only change made in the last few weeks, so I'm guessing this is it. I don't know where to go from here. Any help is appreciated.

2004 sportsman 400 4x4

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Depends on whether you have a early production model with AC ignition or a late production with a DC ignition
 

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Early has 11 wires going to the key switch - late has 7 wires to the key switch
 

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Then you have a DC ignithon with 6 pin CDI unit - first you need 12v on the red wire at the CDI box - unplug the CDI unit, turn the key on and check for 12v between the red and brn wires - note pic is the back (wire entry side) of the plug, so you want positive on the top center pin to graound and brown is ground
154293
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Some reason the picture won't load... but my ignition plug is long and thin, not 2 rows of 3. It appeared that it was 5 pins long, one pin was by itself (white)2 wires (both red) going into and out of the same pin, brown and orange, also the same with wires going in and out of the same pin. I'm busy with the storm that's rolling thru, I'll try to take another picture again in a bit

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What is the VIN of you ATV? I need to verify the model number. I am looking at model A04CH42AQ
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
What is the VIN of you ATV? I need to verify the model number. I am looking at model A04CH42AQ
Sorry for the delay. Heading out of town now for work, but was able to snap a couple pics that might help


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97 Polaris 500 sportsman 4x4 Indepedent shaft drive, 2000 Honda 450S foreman
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Sorry for the delay. Heading out of town now for work, but was able to snap a couple pics that might help


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Whew….hopefully u did not cook anything reversing polarity, would likely be the relay or coil perhaps, id get some electrical parts cleaner and dielectric grease tho and clean everything with a plug that u encounter, tjen with dielectric grease, and i stress this, u don’t necessarily grease the contacts or connections per se, you use this stuff to prevent your electrical from jumping into anything touching or zip tied / clamped etc down, it’s not a conductor it’s an inhibitor, but is amazing for dirt and especially water/moisture…latebird has u on right track, I learn everyday just reading his replies, good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Whew….hopefully u did not cook anything reversing polarity, would likely be the relay or coil perhaps, id get some electrical parts cleaner and dielectric grease tho and clean everything with a plug that u encounter, tjen with dielectric grease, and i stress this, u don’t necessarily grease the contacts or connections per se, you use this stuff to prevent your electrical from jumping into anything touching or zip tied / clamped etc down, it’s not a conductor it’s an inhibitor, but is amazing for dirt and especially water/moisture…latebird has u on right track, I learn everyday just reading his replies, good luck
Where would a relay even be? I didn't did a single relay or even a fuse anywhere. I didnt do a full autopsy but I looked under the headlight bezel, behind the radiator , by the battery, and even by the storage area under the seat. Im really surprised that this isn't more like a car in terms of fuse panels and such

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Pic of the motor was no help, but the pic of the key switch plug confirms it's the early model 400/500

Knowing this, you need to find the CDI unit - the service manual does not specify it's location, b ut it is typically on the bulkhead where the coil and controller module are located
154321


The unit looks like this
154322

You will need to unplug the six pin plug pictured in post #6 and check for voltage
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Excellent. I won't be back home until Saturday morning but I will check it then, and report back. Thank you so much!

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok guys, jumping back in. Life git in tbe way, but I have a few spare hours free, and am trying to check this out.

The 6 pin connector, I fount this on the right side of the 4wd box, near the rear tire. Does this appear to be correct? The sticker on it says "ITW SWITCHES" I believe. Here's the photo of it...


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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Disregard. After re-reading the thread I revisited post 6, saw the colors and how the connector looked and then found what I believe is the correct connector under the headlight area. So I'm going to start checking. Wish me luck


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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Then you have a DC ignithon with 6 pin CDI unit - first you need 12v on the red wire at the CDI box - unplug the CDI unit, turn the key on and check for 12v between the red and brn wires - note pic is the back (wire entry side) of the plug, so you want positive on the top center pin to graound and brown is ground
View attachment 154293
Going off of this, I have my red voltmeter lead to the red wire, and my black lead was long enough to try hooking it to brown, as well as the neg battery terminal and both show 0 volts with the key in the ON AND OFF position. I tried both for giggles and poops

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Status change. I now have 11.82 volts at the red wire. Turns out where the red wire connects to the starting solenoid was broken off. Once I reconnected a eyelet to it and put it on, the display turned on. It wouldn't start right after, but I did realize after a minute that the connector from pic 6 was still disconnected. Once reinstalled ill be damned if she didn't fire right up!

Thank you all for your help, and schematics trying to get this thing up and running! You've all been a great deal of help!


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