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you seem like you have the general idea of how it works. dig into it and let us know how it turns out. take lots of pics and post em up here we need more sticky's on dealing with problems with the AWD system. it seems to be one of the most common problems with polaris 4x4 machines.

and keep asking questions as soon as you bump into them.

i also came from sportbikes (gsxr's mostly) and i agree, these things are more of a bitch to deal with.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
you seem like you have the general idea of how it works. dig into it and let us know how it turns out. take lots of pics and post em up here we need more sticky's on dealing with problems with the AWD system. it seems to be one of the most common problems with polaris 4x4 machines.

and keep asking questions as soon as you bump into them.

i also came from sportbikes (gsxr's mostly) and i agree, these things are more of a bitch to deal with.
ha ha, good to know I am not the only one. I really meant avt sport but I have owned about 4 yamaha r6 though and they, like you said were way more simple than these things. I love riding them though.
 

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Dealer of course is right, late 2004 (not sure about early) has centralized Hillard. Some may suggest other economical fluid choices in all parts of the bike that work well (I use them mostly), but use the recommended POLARIS for the Hillard, it's not that expensive. May need to do another change in fluid if it was pretty dirty.

I usually keep enough "special hillard fluid" on hand for 2 changes at any one time. I was told to do this by a wise young man. The Engine Oil, Tranny and rearend I just get local along with the engine oil filter.

Is it enguaging hard-firm when all wheels are lifted when "awd off", or are the wheels just turning a bit? If it is just turning lightly that is normal; hard, I was told by my wise young friend that it is time to look at the Hillard being contanimated more then you think or just so scored that it will not release normally. According to friend, drive backward for a bit and the Hillard should release, if not, then your in for a rebuild but make sure you flush it well before that decision.

I am not sure about the backward release method with the Hillard, can't hurt, let me know if it works.

I know that anytime I have had a vehicle in 4wd (AWD), when I switch back I almost always try to reverse 10 feet when I get a chance, I guess it's the old locking 4wd hubs I am used to. I do it with the Fire Trucks, Ambulances, even do it with my new 2010 Yukon Medic response vehicle and ppl look at me strange, but tried and true, it works.

Ken
 

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you seem like you have the general idea of how it works. dig into it and let us know how it turns out. take lots of pics and post em up here we need more sticky's on dealing with problems with the AWD system. it seems to be one of the most common problems with polaris 4x4 machines.

and keep asking questions as soon as you bump into them.

i also came from sportbikes (gsxr's mostly) and i agree, these things are more of a bitch to deal with.
ha ha, good to know I am not the only one. I really meant avt sport but I have owned about 4 yamaha r6 though and they, like you said were way more simple than these things. I love riding them though.
yamaha r6's are some sweet machines. 170mph on a stock 600 i mean WTF?!?!

but ya, when i lived in texas, every night home from work there was a corner that had irrigation spill across it i would hit at 100+ mph just to feel my rear tire lose traction. it was beautiful. (gsxr 750)


these atv's on the otherhand, i get scared going 20mph around a corner! lol.

that's just the way she goes.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Dealer of course is right, late 2004 (not sure about early) has centralized Hillard. Some may suggest other economical fluid choices in all parts of the bike that work well (I use them mostly), but use the recommended POLARIS for the Hillard, it's not that expensive. May need to do another change in fluid if it was pretty dirty.

I usually keep enough "special hillard fluid" on hand for 2 changes at any one time. I was told to do this by a wise young man. The Engine Oil, Tranny and rearend I just get local along with the engine oil filter.

Is it enguaging hard-firm when all wheels are lifted when "awd off", or are the wheels just turning a bit? If it is just turning lightly that is normal; hard, I was told by my wise young friend that it is time to look at the Hillard being contanimated more then you think or just so scored that it will not release normally. According to friend, drive backward for a bit and the Hillard should release, if not, then your in for a rebuild but make sure you flush it well before that decision.

I am not sure about the backward release method with the Hillard, can't hurt, let me know if it works.

I know that anytime I have had a vehicle in 4wd (AWD), when I switch back I almost always try to reverse 10 feet when I get a chance, I guess it's the old locking 4wd hubs I am used to. I do it with the Fire Trucks, Ambulances, even do it with my new 2010 Yukon Medic response vehicle and ppl look at me strange, but tried and true, it works.

Ken
It definately locks hard when lifted off the ground but just creeping. I have run it in reverse when lifted to try and release it but had no luck. I am almost certain from talking to cookie and others on the board it is the cage or armature plate. hopefully get on it this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
well the cage and armature were fine. I toof the diff to the local dealer and te tech said it is the output hub, part number 990086. They wanted $316 each!!! Both units had divits in them and he thinks that is the culprit, there was obvious wear. I guess I will take it to John Deere and see if they have them cheaper. I will say my Polaris dealer was very helpful and ended up offering me the parts for $240, but that is still crazy expensive.
 

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found the john deere part that's in the 620i gator I have.

it's part # MIA10651 and it includes BOTH hubs for $140 TOTAL.

I am not 100% sure if it will fit, but it *LOOKS* like it will from the parts diagram. (i just ordered a couple parts for the gator last week)

see if this URL works for you, should point you to the front diff diagram. part #27 and #33 on the diagram equals OEM part# MIA10651

below is the cheapest site I have come across to order john deere parts from, we have 2 john deere tractors, 2 JD lawn mowers, and a 620i gator on the farm...

JOHN DEERE HUB MIA10651
 

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Discussion Starter #28
found the john deere part that's in the 620i gator I have.

it's part # MIA10651 and it includes BOTH hubs for $140 TOTAL.

I am not 100% sure if it will fit, but it *LOOKS* like it will from the parts diagram. (i just ordered a couple parts for the gator last week)

see if this URL works for you, should point you to the front diff diagram. part #27 and #33 on the diagram equals OEM part# MIA10651

below is the cheapest site I have come across to order john deere parts from, we have 2 john deere tractors, 2 JD lawn mowers, and a 620i gator on the farm...

JOHN DEERE HUB MIA10651
dude, that is awesome. i thought i would get sick when i saw how much polaris wanted.
 

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Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
oops forgot the URL to the JD parts diagram apparently...

John Deere - Parts Catalog
i took the diff apart again and there is deffinately a female and male hub, polaris gives the the same part number though? cookies, will part number MIA10651 give me both hubs? thanks for all your help you are saving me tons of money and headaches.
Nevermind, I saw on the bottom of the diagram part number MIA10651 includes both hubs, thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)
Well, my brother and I put the diff back together with the new hubs and it is still doing the same freaking thing. After putting it together I unplugged the 4wd from the speedo and it was still engaging. What is wrong with this thing? Should I take it back apart and just switch out the cage and the armature plate? I really dont want to have to this again, only upside is we are getting pretty fast at removing the front end. what is the thrust plate, could that be wrong. I am planning on replacing the armature and cage even though they looked fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
there is a thrust between the hubs inside the roller cage
It looks like the thrust bearing is really just a spacer. Should I replace the armature and cage and hope that is it? I assume it has to be something in the diff if it stays in awd if it is not plugged in from the speedo? Everything looks fine but obviously not. I can put the quad in reverse after the 4wd locks in and I dont have to push the override button and the awd works in reverse. It obviously will not release 4wd once locked. Any ideas? Does the armature always sit in the cage, mine does? What actually engages 4wd once it gets 12 volts.
 

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there should be a bearing between the two hubs on that metal dowel/pin.

sounds like a problem with the cage/rollers to me... the armature should have teeth or whatever that sit in grooves on the cage. when turn on the awd and send power to the coil it magnetizes and makes the armature plate stop turning which engages the clutch and pushes the rollers out. i don't know if you have taken out all the springs and rollers to clean them and make sure they are moving correctly, if not you might try doing that.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
yeah the dowel pin is in there. That makes sense about the armature. It has to be something in the diff though if it stays in awd without power getting to the diff. My brother works next door to the John Deere dealer and is going to take it over there and let them take a look at it. Sounds like I will get a cage and armature next.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
The tech at John Deere thinks everything is fine in the differential but thinks that the wires going into the housing are shorting each other out. You can see some bare wires going into the housing. I guess I am going to try and find a used housing, that part is like $300, and just ride in 2wd for now. I dont see how you could repair those wires that go into the housing if that is the culprit.
 

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hmmm have you tried testing resistance on the coil through those 2 wires? is there any way to get the coil outside of the housing?
 

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and wait, if the wires were shorting themselves out, how would it sent 12v through the coil to engage the awd to begin with?
 
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