[Thunderbear]

Using it for wood and brush cleanup around the mountain.

--

We stole the Eagle from the Air Force, the Anchor from the Navy, the Rope from the Army, and on the seventh day when God rested, we overran His perimeter and stole the Globe, and have been protecting our shores ever since: United States Marines.

 

[HawkX66]

Awesome build. Looks like you were going for the same utility type add-ons that I'm working on with mine. I just started a month or so ago on an old beat up machine. I have a ways to go yet...

Semper Fi brother

 

[Thunderbear]

Awesome build. Looks like you were going for the same utility type add-ons that I'm working on with mine. I just started a month or so ago on an old beat up machine. I have a ways to go yet...



Semper Fi brother

Much obliged.

Little movement on the 800, picked up a Glacier I with mount and hardware for cheap, going through it to paint and refurb, found some cracking welds.

Don't have a welder, yet. I'm eyeballing Craigslist though, because I need one eventually anyway.

Swore I'd never buy a Polaris plow because the documentation, manuals and fitment compatibility info is absolute shite, and that is still absolutely true. Fuck Polaris for naming 4 different plow systems "Glacier". I'd like to kick that brain trust marketing exec right in the plums.

I need a snow flap, side markers, but no biggie, those are universal.

We stole the rope from the Army, the eagle from the Air Force, and the anchor from the Navy. And on the seventh day, when God rested, we overran His perimeter and stole the Globe, we've been running the show ever since.

United States Marines.

 

[Thunderbear]

Been mostly working on other projects. Didn't get out hunting to Kodiak with the 800 like I wanted, so it's been sitting on the charger mostly, with the occasional trip outside around the block.

Ended up coming across a complete Glacier I plow, which included mount and hardware for a decent amount. So despite swearing never to buy one, I made the trip out. Glacier I should fit twins 600, 700 and 800 from 02ish up, I believe.

Here are the part numbers, long since deceased, but might help someone looking.

Grabbed the plow and some demand drive.

Tearing into it, found some cracks that needed attention.

Went ahead and ground out the cracks and some other areas for weld deposition.

Weld applied along with gussets to strengthen that area.

Underside, spot welds ground out, entire length burned in.

QD mount works like a skidplate. Cleaned up and painted.

Still working on the pushtube/blade frame. Plow flap was torn, and trying to replace it inexpensively. Also the plow shoes are an absolutely ridiculous design, trying to figure out how to make them work better and actually adjust.

 

[Thunderbear]

Well, I got to use the Glacier plow during a snowstorm last December, worked great, surprisingly well with the super low plow shoes. Never got the time to adjust them, so I just ran them as is. The plow flap might have helped.

I did notice the Terra 35 winch was not power spooling out, so I ended up picking up a Milemarker EP35 to swap out. Which, given the winch mount design, turned into a voltage regulator relocation project involving a dremel, then a loss of patience and a sawzall. Would love to fix the Superwinch, but the bankruptcy and Westin acquisition means parts are currently nonexistent. And even if they were, the gearbox entirety is a single part on Superwinch diagrams, rather than exploded diagrams like everyone else.

Currently I'm tracking down why the MM spools out when the switch is IN, and does nothing on out. F_cking proprietary contactors!

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[Thunderbear]

Well, the Milemarker contactor has the winch leads reversed from the Superwinch or whatever prewiring came from Polaris, I'm not sure what I have.

Either way, the winch works as intended now.

If you're going to replace your winch with
another brand, or even the same, beware, it's an involved job. OEM mount has some triangular bracing angled into it, and that angle plus the voltage regulator bracket prevent access to the lower bolt heads, without loosening the front subframe and a lot of other work I didn't want to do.

Fortunately the regulator has enough wire slack to move it to the box. Just have to modify the rad cap cover to let it through.

Going to keep the wire cable for now, plow season still in effect. Next project is reinstalling the plow flap and guide rods.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[Thunderbear]

Got the Moose Utility Division plow flap, as it's the only affordable option. Those things are incredibly overpriced. Only the end two and center prepunched holes line up, so you'll need to drill out six holes. The end two holes got 2' Black Boar plow guides installed. The Polaris bumper isn't tucked in close enough, and the winch cable runs across. Will have to figure out something, or that cable will saw right through. Was hoping the roller fairlead would extend far enough to avoid that scenario, but no dice.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[polman500]

I've never done any plowing Tbear so I don't really know what's needed, but would it be feasible to remove the cable during plow season and spool up a strap to lift the plow? Maybe come up with something slick to put on the center section of the bumper tube for the strap to run on?

 

[bp405]

I'm thinking some type of roller wheel attached to the bumper to guide the cable.

 

[Thunderbear]

I've never done any plowing Tbear so I don't really know what's needed, but would it be feasible to remove the cable during plow season and spool up a strap to lift the plow? Maybe come up with something slick to put on the center section of the bumper tube for the strap to run on?

I have considered the strap, I think I'll swap back to the hawse fairlead if I do, though. Strap will also rub the finish off the tube bumper, though. I have another plow for the Duramax Colorado that clears the driveway a lot faster, but is harder to get mounted quickly.

I'm thinking some type of roller wheel attached to the bumper to guide the cable.

Hah, I was thinking the same thing, last night actually, one of the fairlead rollers on a couple of clamp on light mounts. Will probably be a trial and error thing to get it in the right place and not get torqued by the cable under lift.

 

[ghuns]

I cut both ends off a soup can, slit it open down one side, wrapped it around the tube and put a hose clamp on each end. When the cable starts to wear it thin, rotate it a little, slide it left or right.

A high tech solution, I know.

Swapping the fairlead out for a pulley helped a little too...

KFI Products 105270 Fairlead Plow Pulley Cable

 

[polman500]

Well, that's sorta what I was talking about. I have a roll of plastic sheeting in the garage I use to make mud flaps, fender flares and to repair broken body tabs and such. I get it from Performance Bodies in the link below. Its sold for making stock car body panels, air dams and such. I thought if you used a strap in the winch and a piece of the slick plastic on the brush guard bar for it to slide on then you would preserve both the finish of the brush guard and the strap too. Should be simple to install and simple to remove after plowing season.

Oval Track Plastic Sheets | Speedway Motors

Shop Oval Track Plastic Sheets and get Free Shipping on orders over $99 at Speedway Motors, the Racing and Rodding Specialists. Oval Track Plastic Sheets in-stock with same-day shipping.

www.speedwaymotors.com

 

[trickjeep]

Can you move the attachment point up higher on the plow to avoid rubbing the bar? Looks like if it came off one of those bolts where the top of the plow has the rubber bolted to it it would clear the bar with the cable?

 

[Thunderbear]

Can you move the attachment point up higher on the plow to avoid rubbing the bar? Looks like if it came off one of those bolts where the top of the plow has the rubber bolted to it it would clear the bar with the cable?

There is a large bolt just ahead of the mounting loop that acts as the pivot for the angling assembly that I am considering a tall gusseted L bracket that would clear the bar. Provided that the bolt works as a mounting point, that seems like the easiest permanent solution.

I cut both ends off a soup can, slit it open down one side, wrapped it around the tube and put a hose clamp on each end. When the cable starts to wear it thin, rotate it a little, slide it left or right.

A high tech solution, I know.

Swapping the fairlead out for a pulley helped a little too...

KFI Products 105270 Fairlead Plow Pulley Cable

The can idea is straight up genius. I love it.

I have the pulley on my list, but the reviews don't seem to be that great. I don't know if that's a synthetic thing or a steel cable thing causing the issues described.

Well, that's sorta what I was talking about. I have a roll of plastic sheeting in the garage I use to make mud flaps, fender flares and to repair broken body tabs and such. I get it from Performance Bodies in the link below. Its sold for making stock car body panels, air dams and such. I thought if you used a strap in the winch and a piece of the slick plastic on the brush guard bar for it to slide on then you would preserve both the finish of the brush guard and the strap too. Should be simple to install and simple to remove after plowing season.

Oval Track Plastic Sheets | Speedway Motors

Shop Oval Track Plastic Sheets and get Free Shipping on orders over $99 at Speedway Motors, the Racing and Rodding Specialists. Oval Track Plastic Sheets in-stock with same-day shipping.

www.speedwaymotors.com

I was thinking like hyfax material for sleds from your description, but the link looks like just really thin plastic rolls, how thick are those when unrolled?

 

[Thunderbear]

Well, I finally got back to the 800. I ended up cutting a soup can for the bumper, but it warmed up before I needed it. Now I have two clamp mounts with a roller from a fairlead ready to go on at the same time my heated seat cover goes back on.

But @Sprotsman posted this voltmeter/USB that I wanted, so I ordered on and just got to install yesterday.

I think I need to work on my ground. Reading < 11V at 1700 to 2000RPM.



Also, my Rigid lights dim the two front Morimoto LEDs in my headlights when the 3UP mod is going, but not when just the two low beams are on. May be unrelated, will see.

We stole the Eagle from the Air Force, the Anchor from the Navy, the Rope from the Army, and on the seventh day when God rested, we overran His perimeter and stole the Globe, and have been protecting our shores ever since.

United States Marines.

 

[Sprotsman]

Well, I finally got back to the 800. I ended up cutting a soup can for the bumper, but it warmed up before I needed it. Now I have two clamp mounts with a roller from a fairlead ready to go on at the same time my heated seat cover goes back on.

But @Sprotsman posted this voltmeter/USB that I wanted, so I ordered on and just got to install yesterday.

I think I need to work on my ground. Reading < 11V at 1700 to 2000RPM.

Alsp, my Rigid lights dim the two front Morimoto LEDs in my headlights when the 3UP mod is going, but not when just the two low beams are on. May be unrelated, will see.

We stole the Eagle from the Air Force, the Anchor from the Navy, the Rope from the Army, and on the seventh day when God rested, we overran His perimeter and stole the Globe, and have been protecting our shores ever since.

United States Marines.

Hopefully it’s not a bad voltmeter/USB! Before I installed both of mine I just tested them to a battery on the bench compared to what multimeter was reading.

 

[bp405]

Read through the whole thread 2-👍!!! I agree Thunderbear about the high quality LEDs compared to the cheap-o Amazon specials. Oh and also about those long ass bars that are like 2+feet. My little ol 10" Rigid E-Series and the 10" SR-Series throw a TON of light. So do the Baja Design factory replacements headlights on my 1k, they also pack a punch in a small package.

 

[Thunderbear]

Well, the Voltmeter @Sprotsman posted already helped me diagnose an unhooked stator plug.



Rounding out the hole really is the trickiest part of the install.

Threw the new tires next to the old for comparison.

Now to the most recent project. I had a couple of old Fuelpak Jrs around so I picked up a bracket mount from Amazon for 13 bucks.

Comes with both mounts and hardware, but I had to source the spacer brackets to clear the rear rack. It did involve some cutting, mainly the weird ridge piece directly under the rack bar:

Still, an inexpensive and mostly unobtrusive way for 3Gal storage.

I still ratchet them down for piece of mind though.

Now I just need to get those tires mounted..

 

[Sprotsman]

Thunderbear I used a step drill bit. I put it in tap/dye t-handle and turned step bit by hand. It cut like butter.

 

[Thunderbear]

Thunderbear I used a step drill bit. I put it in tap/dye t-handle and turned step bit by hand. It cut like butter.

hahah, ain't nobody got time for that!

But for real, my unibits weren't big enough, so I had to just "dremel" out the hole with the step bit until it fit.