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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Just acquired this wheeler and i'm seeing if I can get it running again. Its a 2006 sportsman 700 EFI with 300 hours on it, and its been sitting in a garage for around a year. So far when cranking with a fresh battery over 13 volts all i get is a very slow turn that has no chance of starting and you can hear the compression. I have removed the starter and tested it direct with battery, it spun fast as hell..although it seemed to have resistance when turning the gear by hand. i also took it apart and good bit of "black sand" fell out . next i removed the bendex, and the spring seems to be working just not the strongest.i could turn the cylinders on it but they had a little resistance. all of the teeth on the flywheel, starter, and bendex seem to be perfectly fine. After reinstalling the starter and bendex it seemed to turn over a tiny bit faster than previously but no chance of starting. It doesnt have a pull start rope right now so I'm not sure if it turns the same. Next i will remove the spark plugs and try cranking it to see if it turns differently. So what do ya'll think is the culprit?
 

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Black sand in the starter is not good, is motor full of oil? its not milky is it?If you think its the starter, D-B electric on ebay is the place.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It was more like a really fine black dust but there was a small handful..I think there is resistance on the motor so I will pull plugs and add an oz or 2 of oil and see if it turns better with the plugs out..also, how easy should it be to turn the flywheel by hand, I don't have a pull rope so I was going to test how it turns over this way..what could be causing the resistance if it ends up being a mechanical issue? Stuck clutch, timing chain, drive belt??
 

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How did it turn over without plugs? If it sat a while, I'd go through everything before I was worried about trying to fire it up. Check the air box and exhaust.... to make sure no critters have moved in and made it home!! Change the oil, fresh gas, clean the starter out with electric parts cleaner, check for spark..... all these things and then I'd give it a go. If it has spark, try a tiny (and I said TINY) shot of starting fluid to see it it wants to pop off. If it does, but won't fire up and run..... clean the carb, as it's likely fuel delivery!

These 600's are a twin and will turn over harder then a 400-500 single cylinder will.

Good Luck, don't rush it!!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
How did it turn over without plugs? If it sat a while, I'd go through everything before I was worried about trying to fire it up. Check the air box and exhaust.... to make sure no critters have moved in and made it home!! Change the oil, fresh gas, clean the starter out with electric parts cleaner, check for spark..... all these things and then I'd give it a go. If it has spark, try a tiny (and I said TINY) shot of starting fluid to see it it wants to pop off. If it does, but won't fire up and run..... clean the carb, as it's likely fuel delivery!

These 600's are a twin and will turn over harder then a 400-500 single cylinder will.

Good Luck, don't rush it!!

I will try it without plugs in when i get home later today, but if its barely turning and almost stops at TDC will it even generate a spark? There is a check engine light showing on the module but i havent been able to pull the codes yet..I plan on checking all electrical connections from battery to starter etc. Air box is good, fresh gas, starter is cleaned out and starts strong when removed. I will check the exhaust as mentioned, there is mud around it so maybe its backed up somewhere. It's a fuel injected 700 tho..thanks for the help, keep it coming!
 

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pull the plugs and put some oil down the hole. Then turn it over and let the oil lube stuff for a second. If the motor turns over quicker but not fast, do it again. You likely have a bit of rust in the cylinder bores and other places. The oil will help things get back while letting the motor remove the crap. Also make sure your oil in the motor is good and clean.
 

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best way to do it is to take fly wheel cover off.....spray a bit of penertrateing oil in each cylinder..let it sit a while....then turn the fly wheel slow by hand....that way less chance of snapping a ring if any rust in there...work it back an forth..dont force....spray more penetrating oil if needed....work it again back an forth till you get a smooth revolution freely....

if you have the thin red nozzle on the penetrating oil use that to try to cover the whole inside of wall so it runs down...once you feel it rotates free....I would change the oil.....
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Weather didn't allow me to attempt anything today, but tomorrow rain or shine i'll be workin on it...so to get a good look at the cylinders i can just take flywheel off. anybody have a ******* at home way to hold it in place while removing nut? also there is alot of spot rust on the flywheel so this is probably a big sign of rust in the cylnder wall or something of that sort keepin it from running smoothly. should penetrating oil do the trick or should i try pb blaster (would this be safe on the internals)? I plan on taking the flywheel off and polishing up both sides, whats a good lubricant for this? thanks again for the suggestions.
 

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you wont see the cylinders...and no need to take fly wheel off..use the fly wheel to rotate the engine is all....dont use the electric start..incase there is rust on the clynder walls...less chance of snapping piston ring...I highly dout there is rust in there..but this is a pre caution ..if it spins freely then re install plugs and try to start...
 

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He said he has already turned it over a bunch of times. I was more curious if it would spin over faster without the plugs in it. That would indicate a problem in the exhaust. If it doesn't then he has an issue inside the motor in either the valves or the bottom end.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
ok so far today I removed plugs, oil change and fill (new oil filter), new fuel filter..After taking the plugs out i tried turning over and i can hear the it turning 10 times faster and it never got slowed to a stop like before (before it would turn once then stop and if i was lucky it would turn twice before stopping completely similar to a completely dead battery)..I then took the flywheel cover off, and I started pb blasting each spark plug hole. I used about half the can total, and i manually turned the flywheel back and forth in spots that seemed to stick..seemed like it freed up a little more after time but i cannot spin it a full rotation easily like the price is right wheel..there always seems to be one spot that the compression builds up pretty high and there's alot more resistance than in any other part..I sprayed more pb blaster in each cylinder and put the plug wire back in to keep dust out, I plan on seeing if it gets even more freed up overnight.

Side Note: When i removed plugs they were new below the thread but there was muddy crap in the hole when the plug wire is suppose to seal.

What do y'all think i should attack next?? I was wondering if i should remove the exhaust pipe where it comes off the engine (its not sealed properly) and try to crank with the spark plugs in. Thanks again for any help, it's much appreciated.
 

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If it is cranking fast without the plugs that is good. Try removing the muffler and put in the plugs and see how it turns over. If it is fast then issue would likely be in the muffler if it turns over really slow again then issue is in valves most likely. I think that a half a can is more than enough. :) I would have put a bit of motor oil in the hole. How did the old oil look?

You wont be able to turn it over easily with the plugs in as it will be building compression. I hope you cleaned the area where the plug was before you removed or it may have ended up in the cylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
before i added pb blaster i tried just adding oil to the cylinders first and hand turned flywheel..I wiped down the cylinder wall and the plugs and made sure nothing fell down in, it was mainly dried up like this wheeler had seen some water before..When i first changed the oil there was only little in there and it looked like old rusty oil.

How long should i wait before trying to crank with the plugs in and the pb blaster still in there. Should i let it air out or just go ahead and go for it? I read somewhere that once i get it to turn good again i should immediately change oil again to remove the penetrating oil..Thanks again for the help and quick responses, I will take the muffler off and wait to hear back...


oh and my dumbass broke the radiator drain plug..I took a drill bit and got most of the leftover plug but the threads are still locked in there and i dont wanna hurt the radiator..Is coolant or penetrating oil flammable? I was going to try a small butane soldering torch to heat up the plastic plug and remove it and just wanted to make sure i don't light on fire.
 

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Yep like me, two steps forward and one step back. I would imagine the PB blaster is flammable but shouldn't be near the rad and coolant definitely is not. I would put in the plugs and turn it over and see if it fires. If it does then change the oil to get rid of the penetrating oil. It has stuff it that breaks down oil such as kerosene etc.

Fire it up without the muffler on it and see what happens. Short term you are not going to hurt it. The fact your oil was low and dirty may have been the cause of the binding. Starting it up will also pump oil to the top end an help loosen up the motor. With the muffler off if it doesn't fire over then I would be looking at the exhaust valves. When your turning it over put your hand over where the exhaust comes out and see if you get a forceful amount of air.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ok I tried starting it with plugs in and muffler off..It turns faster but still no chance of starting..ex: turns over then for 2 seconds you hear it slowly turning flywheel and by the 3rd-4th second it turns again...i put my hand at the tailpipe and i feel a push of air but i hear more air up by the spark plugs that releases at the point where the starter slows (especially when hand turning flywheel and slowly working through the resistance) I took the exhaust pipe off in front of motor right after the y and i tried again...still same as with just the muffler off, but randomly within 30 seconds of turning it was back to back only once (turned then turned again with only a second delay)..I guess the only thing next to do is remove the motor and rebuild it. this will be my first rebuild (i helped rebuild an 84 honda 3 wheeler top end) and I'm wondering what kind of damage i should expect. thanks for all the help
 

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Sounds like it was run low on oil, your probably gonna find the cylinders and pistons all scratched up , needing bored and new pistons and rings, be sure to check for any slack in the rod bearings on the bottom end, that's where it gets expensive quick.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So i'm hoping i get lucky, I tried turning it today and it was faster than before but still nothing fast enough to start..I checked my battery and it read 12.3 after 4-5 seconds of crankin, so I'm assuming it might be turnin even faster with a charged battery..could it have jumped timing and thats why there's so much compression resistance when turning? I plan on taking motor off this weekend but why not try another half can of pb blaster overnight
 

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I doubt it is the timing of the valves but its possible. With improper timing it would still turn over quickly but just would not run. Timed properly is when the compression is at its highest.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So shortly after I prayed to the Polaris Gods I went back at the wheeler with a fully charged battery..turned over the fastest so far, then all of a sudden it freed up and now it turns like a champ! I cant believe pb blaster did the trick, but i know an old boat motor thats about to get some next...Now i just have a spark issue, any guidance on that would be great
 

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good joe...the blaster takes time to work....it has a catalyst in it to attack rust...now what you want to do is take a compression test before any thing....make sure no cracked rings...if there was rust in the cylinder walls...its notoriuos for cracking rings when trying to start up if not lubed good...dont be in a hurry to start till you check it all out...do a test.....
 
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