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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Wheel Tire Vehicle Plant Combat vehicle

Tire Wheel Dog Sky Combat vehicle

The WV850 is the civilian version of the militaries MV850.
It lacks no Low end power even though it does not have a low gear.
It's a heavy beast at a dry weight of 1114 pounds Compared to the XP850 at a dry weight of 773
It has a fuel capacity of 11 gallons Compared to the XP850 with 5 gallons
I have found my personal WV850 gets about a 120 miles out of both tanks
The front rack holds 200 pounds rear rack hold 400 Compared to the XP850 which holds a 120 on front and 240 on back
I could park my Kawasaki bayou 220 on the back and it would be fine
I have had 3 people on back and barely felt it going Up Hills not too steep Not Doing anything stupid
With the beefed up suspension And the NPT tires rides like a Cadillac
The WV850 towing capacity is 1500 pounds same as the XP850 But with Beefed up suspension It can have a heavier tongue weight Pulling a 1500 pound load of logs easy.
The flat steel racks are awesome why on Earth they would ever make them out of round bars I don't know.

And I know you wanna hear about the tires Should I make you wait

They ride smooth And no the mud does not stay in them the scientifical force throws everything out to the side.
The snow and the ice seems to do the same thing I was expecting it to clog it up and then it ride horribleAs they spend the Synthetical force sends everything out.
as you go around the corner on stones it will pick Up stones in the tires and as you're driving it will throw them about 40' in the air. I wouldn't want to be the guy in front of me getting hit by one
When you go through water slowly the water goes in then comes out of the tire as it's about 3/4 of the way around It makes a very weird noise And looks kind of funny Mud's kind of similar but a little bit more sloppy.
And when you go round a corner on soft ground be careful the tires bite into the ground when they flex sideways.
I haven't come close to flipping it yet I hope I never do The sway bar is very heavy duty and as you're turning the 4 Wheeler does not really Tilt at all I have a feeling the weight helps too.
I guess Polaris thought it would be funny to put an Operating pressure on the side of the tire And what pressure to seat the Bead.

Modifications to my personal WV850

Better headlights When switches on low beam. At this point original headlights are just for the looks.
backup lights When switches on high beam. If you work outside at night a lot having lights is very nice.
rock lights Haven't installed switch yet I have 2 attached to the taillight at the moment so they're always on
4 way trailer plug for lights on trailer
Custom headlight guard with storage On the front
Custom rear rack sides. That way I worry less about my dogs going off Even though they never do without it.
trench shoveled just in case I need to dig myself out. I really need to put a machete on it keep forgetting to.
Cell phone holder must have. Because who doesn't have a cell phone.
If you run the Atak App you can see Where you got lost. And your friends and family.

Boy that is little bit long Isn't it

And if anybody needs any information from the service manual let me know And I'll post a pic of it

Specifications: WV850

ENGINE
Engine Type: 4-Stroke SOHC Twin Cylinder
Displacement: 850cc
Fuel System: Electronic Fuel Injected
Cooling: Liquid

DRIVETRAIN
Transmission/Final Drive: Automatic PVT P/R/N/H Single Forward Gear; Shaft
Engine Braking System: Standard
Active Descent Control: Standard

SUSPENSION
Front Suspension: Dual A-Arm 9" (22.9 cm) Travel; heavy duty shocks
Rear Suspension Dual A-Arm, Rolled 10.25" (26 cm) Travel; heavy duty shocks
BRAKES
Front/Rear Brakes Single Lever 4-Wheel Hydraulic Discs with Hydraulic Rear Foot Brake
Parking Brake: Park in Transmission/Lockable Hand Lever

TIRES / WHEELS
Front Tires: 26 x 8-14 NPT
Rear Tires: 26 x 8-14 NPT
Wheels: NPT 8-spoke Cast Aluminum

DIMENSIONS / CAPACITIES
Wheelbase: 57" (144.8 CM)
Dry Weight: 1114 lbs (505.2 kg)
Overall Vehicle Size (L x W x H): 94.5 x 47.3 x 52 in (242.3 x 120.1 x 132.1 cm)
Ground Clearance: 11.25 in / 28.5 cm
Fuel Capacity: 5.25 gal (19.9 L) + 6.5 gal (24.6 L) reserve
Cooling: Higher Capacity Cooling System
Front/Rear Rack: 200 lbs (91 kg)/400 lbs (181 kg)
Payload Capacity: 850 lbs. (385.5 kg)
Towing Capacity: 1,500 lb (680.4 kg)
Unbraked Trailer Towing Capacity: N/A
Hitch/Type: Standard 2 in / 5 cm Receiver

FEATURES
Cargo System: Polaris powder coated black steel w/D-rings
Lighting: Triple 50w High Beam, Dual 50w Low Beam Headlights; Single Brakelight/Taillight
Electronic Power Steering: Standard
Fixed Front Winch: Standard
Shift Lever Lock: Standard - Military Based
Full Underbody Skidplate: Standard
Push Bumper: Standard - Military Based
Wider Foot Wells: Standard - Military Based
Enhanced Chassis: Standard - Military Based
Full Body Steel Exoskeleton: Standard - Military Based
Colors: Avalanche Gray
MSRP: $14,999



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Any questions please ask that was a way Longer than I thought it was going to be I may have won a little overboard
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Does the plastic in the wheel ever get broken in and soft
It's quite a flexible plastic polymer. The only way to break it's I guess to get a stick stuck in there or something.
I've noticed that I have one piece That has been hit And broke a little but it doesn't really matter you can cut a whole quarter out of that plastic.
These pictures are from a torture test video on YouTube


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Nice machine that you have there! I just recently acquired a 2014 MV850. It's in overall good condition considering how it was used. It just needs a few things to make it complete and ready to go. Since you have the civilian equivalent, could you help me answer a few questions? The biggest thing I am trying to figure out right now is the winch mounting and wiring. The winch was removed at some point, including the wiring harness. From what I can tell it looks like the winch would mount with the "bottom" turned on the side on the backside of the front skid plate? The fairlead would then use the top two bolt holes to go through the plate and into the winch itself. As for wiring, where is the contactor mounted? Also, is there a factory circuit breaker for the winch? Mine actually has a 200 amp resetable circuit breaker mounted through the plastic on the right hand side near the gear shifter. I'll have to get a pic on that. The wire out from that circuit breaker goes directly to a stud mount up in front of the battery. If it works out, my plan is to replicate the factory winch setup using another brand winch that I have, which happens to have the same style rocker switch for the handlebar, and I'll use the contactor that I have if it mounts the same, or get a used Polaris one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Nice machine that you have there! I just recently acquired a 2014 MV850. It's in overall good condition considering how it was used.
I will help in any way I can.
I have the Service manual so if you have any questions I can take a picture and put it on for you If you have any questions let me know.
I got the service manual out I can't find anything about the winch in the service manual for wiring diagram So any questions I'll just take pictures of what I have on my 4 Wheeler
Handwriting Font Pattern Paper Paper product
Water Rectangle Wood Liquid Sky
 

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Thank you, I appreciate it! Could you possibly snap a pic of how the winch is mounted, maybe looking in through one of the side holes where you can access the winch clutch knob? I think I see how it mounts but would like to make sure. If you can possibly see where the winch wires go, you should find the contactor. I'm curious where that is supposed to mount. I think I figured out something neat about the MV850, it seems to have heated grips! On the MV850 there are extra switches on the headlight pod for the front and rear IR lights and a blackout switch to prevent the regular lights from coming on. All of those switches have faded text and I couldn't really read them, but the one of the right hand side has Hi, Lo, Off positions and today I noticed wires going under the grips on both sides so I think that is what that's for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you, I appreciate it! Could you possibly snap a pic of how the winch is mounted, maybe looking in through one of the
Alright 1st thing I would love to see some pictures If I could have gotten the military version I Would have I'm in to military vehicles I have a 1951 M38 Jeep But I'm restoring
I would love to see the IR lights and the lights switch
Here's the best I could do I couldn't open The top rack because of my custom Container on top with the lights on You'll see the wire comes off the winch with the plug the plug on the left side of the 4 Wheeler goes up to with the radiator goes across in front of the radiator which is drooping on mine I'll have to fix that And then goes up through a hole on the right side.
did yours come with the npt tires.


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Thank you that helps on the mounting at least! It looks like the motor portion of the winch is on the driver's side. I had thought it was on the passenger side. I have a Champion brand winch that I am going to try and mount on mine I think. The handlebar controls look almost identical and you can't really see the winch itself once mounted. I'll get some pics today of a few things on mine. I have one of the rear wheels off to replace wheel studs and brakes and after I get that fixed and I can wheel it out I'll get some pics of the overall machine. Also, mine did not come with the tweels. Either before it left the military, or shortly afterwards, the wheels and tires were swapped. That's actually the biggest thing I need to address on it. Someone installed 4 identical 12x8 wheels with 10" wide tires all way around. The problem is they used the wheels that are made for flat lug nuts, but installed them with the acorn nuts. So they aren't mounted properly and it chewed up the studs on one of the rear wheels, as well as rounded the bolt holes on the wheel. So that will be something that I need to replace soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I highly recommend bending the winch control out a little bit so you can reach it with your thumb while your hand is on the break and the button at the same time if you plow during the winter
 

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Nice machine that you have there! I just recently acquired a 2014 MV850. It's in overall good condition considering how it was used. It just needs a few things to make it complete and ready to go. Since you have the civilian equivalent, could you help me answer a few questions? The biggest thing I am trying to figure out right now is the winch mounting and wiring. The winch was removed at some point, including the wiring harness. From what I can tell it looks like the winch would mount with the "bottom" turned on the side on the backside of the front skid plate? The fairlead would then use the top two bolt holes to go through the plate and into the winch itself. As for wiring, where is the contactor mounted? Also, is there a factory circuit breaker for the winch? Mine actually has a 200 amp resetable circuit breaker mounted through the plastic on the right hand side near the gear shifter. I'll have to get a pic on that. The wire out from that circuit breaker goes directly to a stud mount up in front of the battery. If it works out, my plan is to replicate the factory winch setup using another brand winch that I have, which happens to have the same style rocker switch for the handlebar, and I'll use the contactor that I have if it mounts the same, or get a used Polaris one.
Welcome to the forum.
From the official Forum greeter, beware of the imitators.
 
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I highly recommend bending the winch control out a little bit so you can reach it with your thumb while your hand is on the break and the button at the same time if you plow during the winter
That explains why yours is bent in the photo lol. Thanks for the tip. I was just working on mine in the garage to replace the rear wheels studs and caliper and I think that based on what I see, someone actually ground down the old caliper to make a 12" wheel fit. That one wheel was a little messed up anyway, but looks like I won't be riding it today. So now I think I need to be looking for 14" wheels and not 12, which actually makes a lot of sense.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I have 12-in wheels that I try putting on mine but I wasn't going to grind down the caliper to do it I already had the set of wheels and tires I wanted to to see the difference between tires and wheels on the four wheeler I think I'll probably end up just getting the twheels retread
 

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The tweels sure do look awesome. I'd love to have a set for the MV850 if for nothing else just to show when I take it to events and stuff. I did just luck up and found a set of the factory steel wheels like come on the newer MV850's so I have those on order and will eventually find tires for those.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yes they do look cool They look even cooler when you put red white and blue glow sticks in them I would have Put the picture I took on but it just didn't turn out good enough didn't do it Justice
They also ride really smooth with the beefed up suspension The twheels Smooth it out
 

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Yes they do look cool They look even cooler when you put red white and blue glow sticks in them I would have Put the picture I took on but it just didn't turn out good enough didn't do it Justice
They also ride really smooth with the beefed up suspension The twheels Smooth it out
I managed to get the rear wheel back on and rode it a bit. I definitely want to put the correct type of wheels on it that are made for acorn nuts at some point. For now at least I was able to ride a bit. OK next two questions, ha ha: Does yours use two pins on the front rack to keep the hatch closed where you access the battery? If so, do yours rattle? Mine sure do. On the rear exhaust something is making a vibration squeaking noise. Ever had that? I can push against the muffler and it stops. Might be the mating between the muffler and the pipe. The rubber mount grommets are intact.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
I do not notice my battery compartment making any noise and yes it has two pins in it I have a bunch of stuff in my container on top that makes noise so I don't notice that if you want I recommend when you close it put a rubber o-rings between either side as you close it will stop the noise and yes my exhaust squeaks !!!!!! too it's annoyed me since day one. Mine only had 326 miles on it when I bought it so nothing was worn out .
I highly recommend putting the storage compartment on the front and three sides on the back makes it so useful you can just throw things on the back and drive off.
I would like to see the damage that's been done to your wheels I'm a tractor trailer mechanic and I tend to be able to figure out ways to fix it.
I once had a brake caliper brake loose and completely destroy my wheel I ended up having the world cracks the whole way around it . You may be able to take a washer and a ball peen hammer with a socket to make a repair for the wheel you stick the washer on the socket hit it with Hammer to make it into a cone and put it in the hole where the proper nut should be
 

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I do not notice my battery compartment making any noise and yes it has two pins in it I have a bunch of stuff in my container on top that makes noise so I don't notice that if you want I recommend when you close it put a rubber o-rings between either side as you close it will stop the noise and yes my exhaust squeaks !!!!!! too it's annoyed me since day one. Mine only had 326 miles on it when I bought it so nothing was worn out .
I highly recommend putting the storage compartment on the front and three sides on the back makes it so useful you can just throw things on the back and drive off.
I would like to see the damage that's been done to your wheels I'm a tractor trailer mechanic and I tend to be able to figure out ways to fix it.
I once had a brake caliper brake loose and completely destroy my wheel I ended up having the world cracks the whole way around it . You may be able to take a washer and a ball peen hammer with a socket to make a repair for the wheel you stick the washer on the socket hit it with Hammer to make it into a cone and put it in the hole where the proper nut should be
I think it is mostly the pins themselves that rattle on mine. It has two push lock pins, I don't know the exact name of them, but they are a common style on military gear. They are too long really, but I agree that I can maybe put some rubber washers, orings, or something on them to help. The wheel damage is the bolt holes are sort of elongated. They are the style wheels without tapers, made to use with a flat nut. Whomever put them on reused the tapered acorn nuts. The acorn nuts helped to center it back up for now. I don't think the wheel is worth fixing since it's the wrong type anyway. These wheels were made for hubs with centering flanges molded into the hub. I think they are technically rear factory steel wheels for a Ranger (12x8 wheel). Once I get a little more work done on mine I will start a thread for it and post some pics.
 

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It's me again. Could I trouble you to take a few measurements of the front rubber bumper strips? Mine are missing and I'm trying to determine if I can source them outside of ordering the actual polaris part #. Ordering the OEM part they are $75 each! As far as measurements I'm looking for width, length, and how far apart the bolt holes are.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
It's me again. Could I trouble you to take a few measurements of the front rubber bumper strips? Mine are missing and I'm trying to determine if I can source them outside of ordering the actual polaris part #. Ordering the OEM part they are $75 each! As far as measurements I'm looking for width, length, and how far apart the bolt holes are.
If you do want to try looking for some rubbers that go on the back of tractor trailers may find something similar and I mean on the back of the trailer where they back up to the loading docks or maybe in The boat world I may have seen something similar
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