Polaris ATV Forum banner
1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Nice machine that you have there! I just recently acquired a 2014 MV850. It's in overall good condition considering how it was used. It just needs a few things to make it complete and ready to go. Since you have the civilian equivalent, could you help me answer a few questions? The biggest thing I am trying to figure out right now is the winch mounting and wiring. The winch was removed at some point, including the wiring harness. From what I can tell it looks like the winch would mount with the "bottom" turned on the side on the backside of the front skid plate? The fairlead would then use the top two bolt holes to go through the plate and into the winch itself. As for wiring, where is the contactor mounted? Also, is there a factory circuit breaker for the winch? Mine actually has a 200 amp resetable circuit breaker mounted through the plastic on the right hand side near the gear shifter. I'll have to get a pic on that. The wire out from that circuit breaker goes directly to a stud mount up in front of the battery. If it works out, my plan is to replicate the factory winch setup using another brand winch that I have, which happens to have the same style rocker switch for the handlebar, and I'll use the contactor that I have if it mounts the same, or get a used Polaris one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Thank you, I appreciate it! Could you possibly snap a pic of how the winch is mounted, maybe looking in through one of the side holes where you can access the winch clutch knob? I think I see how it mounts but would like to make sure. If you can possibly see where the winch wires go, you should find the contactor. I'm curious where that is supposed to mount. I think I figured out something neat about the MV850, it seems to have heated grips! On the MV850 there are extra switches on the headlight pod for the front and rear IR lights and a blackout switch to prevent the regular lights from coming on. All of those switches have faded text and I couldn't really read them, but the one of the right hand side has Hi, Lo, Off positions and today I noticed wires going under the grips on both sides so I think that is what that's for.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Thank you that helps on the mounting at least! It looks like the motor portion of the winch is on the driver's side. I had thought it was on the passenger side. I have a Champion brand winch that I am going to try and mount on mine I think. The handlebar controls look almost identical and you can't really see the winch itself once mounted. I'll get some pics today of a few things on mine. I have one of the rear wheels off to replace wheel studs and brakes and after I get that fixed and I can wheel it out I'll get some pics of the overall machine. Also, mine did not come with the tweels. Either before it left the military, or shortly afterwards, the wheels and tires were swapped. That's actually the biggest thing I need to address on it. Someone installed 4 identical 12x8 wheels with 10" wide tires all way around. The problem is they used the wheels that are made for flat lug nuts, but installed them with the acorn nuts. So they aren't mounted properly and it chewed up the studs on one of the rear wheels, as well as rounded the bolt holes on the wheel. So that will be something that I need to replace soon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
I highly recommend bending the winch control out a little bit so you can reach it with your thumb while your hand is on the break and the button at the same time if you plow during the winter
That explains why yours is bent in the photo lol. Thanks for the tip. I was just working on mine in the garage to replace the rear wheels studs and caliper and I think that based on what I see, someone actually ground down the old caliper to make a 12" wheel fit. That one wheel was a little messed up anyway, but looks like I won't be riding it today. So now I think I need to be looking for 14" wheels and not 12, which actually makes a lot of sense.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
The tweels sure do look awesome. I'd love to have a set for the MV850 if for nothing else just to show when I take it to events and stuff. I did just luck up and found a set of the factory steel wheels like come on the newer MV850's so I have those on order and will eventually find tires for those.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Yes they do look cool They look even cooler when you put red white and blue glow sticks in them I would have Put the picture I took on but it just didn't turn out good enough didn't do it Justice
They also ride really smooth with the beefed up suspension The twheels Smooth it out
I managed to get the rear wheel back on and rode it a bit. I definitely want to put the correct type of wheels on it that are made for acorn nuts at some point. For now at least I was able to ride a bit. OK next two questions, ha ha: Does yours use two pins on the front rack to keep the hatch closed where you access the battery? If so, do yours rattle? Mine sure do. On the rear exhaust something is making a vibration squeaking noise. Ever had that? I can push against the muffler and it stops. Might be the mating between the muffler and the pipe. The rubber mount grommets are intact.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
I do not notice my battery compartment making any noise and yes it has two pins in it I have a bunch of stuff in my container on top that makes noise so I don't notice that if you want I recommend when you close it put a rubber o-rings between either side as you close it will stop the noise and yes my exhaust squeaks !!!!!! too it's annoyed me since day one. Mine only had 326 miles on it when I bought it so nothing was worn out .
I highly recommend putting the storage compartment on the front and three sides on the back makes it so useful you can just throw things on the back and drive off.
I would like to see the damage that's been done to your wheels I'm a tractor trailer mechanic and I tend to be able to figure out ways to fix it.
I once had a brake caliper brake loose and completely destroy my wheel I ended up having the world cracks the whole way around it . You may be able to take a washer and a ball peen hammer with a socket to make a repair for the wheel you stick the washer on the socket hit it with Hammer to make it into a cone and put it in the hole where the proper nut should be
I think it is mostly the pins themselves that rattle on mine. It has two push lock pins, I don't know the exact name of them, but they are a common style on military gear. They are too long really, but I agree that I can maybe put some rubber washers, orings, or something on them to help. The wheel damage is the bolt holes are sort of elongated. They are the style wheels without tapers, made to use with a flat nut. Whomever put them on reused the tapered acorn nuts. The acorn nuts helped to center it back up for now. I don't think the wheel is worth fixing since it's the wrong type anyway. These wheels were made for hubs with centering flanges molded into the hub. I think they are technically rear factory steel wheels for a Ranger (12x8 wheel). Once I get a little more work done on mine I will start a thread for it and post some pics.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
It's me again. Could I trouble you to take a few measurements of the front rubber bumper strips? Mine are missing and I'm trying to determine if I can source them outside of ordering the actual polaris part #. Ordering the OEM part they are $75 each! As far as measurements I'm looking for width, length, and how far apart the bolt holes are.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
I did not build the rack add-ons the guy is actually on this forum search wv 850 racks.
I actually found the rubbers on Amazon I'm pretty sure the right measurements I didn't check they look exactly the same as one on the four wheeler just a little longer here's the link search that on Amazon they're $20 each
Vestil M-2-12 Rubber Extruded Bumper, 12" Length, 2" Width, 1-3/4" Depth,Black
I was waiting to purchase those bumpers until I had the measurements. According to the data sheet from the manufacturer, the biggest difference is the bolt hole spacing. On the MV/WV, the holes are 6.75" apart and according to the data sheet for these, they are 6" apart. I'm very tempted to get them anyway and just drill another hole. I have to work out a few other things first before I worry too much about that. I have several parts on order that I will be working on first, plus planning to mount a winch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
I don't know if you notice in the picture I sent you up the winch on the motorside there's a plug so you can put the witch in without worrying about the wires you can just plug it in I eventually am going to make a Which hitch on the back and I'll have a plug back there to plug the Winch in
I didn't notice that from the picture. On mine the whole winch wiring harness was removed. I think most of it will be fairly easy to recreate. The biggest thing I'm not sure of right now is where to mount the contactor, which is the electronic switch box where the winch power wires hook up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
I figured out where the winch contactor was mounted on mine originally. There is a molded pocket area in the front plastic, underneath the rack, on the passenger side. Mine actually still has the rubber flap covering it. To mount the replacement contactor I will need to remove the whole front rack to access that spot. That is slightly annoying but doesn't look like it will be too bad of a job.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
I still really want to see some pictures There are so few that aren't stock Photos on the Internet
Thanks for the prod. I definitely need to post more pics and info. For the time being I'll post this teaser. Some parts that I ordered just showed up today so I hope to get started on a couple of things this week. I did not paint the racks, it came to me that way. Not sure if the previous owner did that or if the mil guys did. I blurred out the ID number under the headlight.
Wheel Tire Vehicle Combat vehicle Automotive tire
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Man that is awesome. I would love to be a diesel mechanic, maybe not professionally, but be that proficient. I got into military vehicles when I bought a M1078 about 8 years ago and I recently converted it to a M1079 that I am turning into a bare bones camper sort of deal. On my MV850 I think the racks are the factory racks as they are actually tan underneath and where the black paint has rubbed off. The frame has some surface rust in a few areas but nothing too terrible. The front rollbar is missing, but maybe I can eventually find one or make one. The anti-reflective stuff on the headlights is pretty interesting and is over the tail light too. It's actually just a stick on material and I would love to find it to redo the high beam headlight. It's a fine mesh pattern. The plastics are indeed in great condition. The front was fading and chalky, but I cleaned that up with a wire brush and Goof Off, and now it looks like the rest. Thank you for the tip on the one way bearing too, I will have to keep that in mind. Mine sometimes is tough to shift out of H and I don't know if that is something like the one way bearing, the belt is dragging slightly on a sheave, or maybe it's just typical Polaris. I have a 2013 Bobcat 3400XL (made by Polaris) and hard shifting was one of the big complaints with the diesel UTV's. That machine has needed a lot of work because it was an abused rental unit, so I am familiar with rebuilding Polaris suspension! At least on this MV850 the control arm bushings are already fitted with grease fittings.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Speaking of the clutch system, does yours have compression braking when going downhill? Mine seems to be keeping the clutch engaged a bit more than I would expect, but then again the only thing I have to compare it to is my diesel bobcat 3400XL, which has different clutching characteristics. I changed the front diff fluid and got the ADC working correctly, but even without that it doesn't freewheel as much as I might expect.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
I still want an M38 some day. Yours looks great and I like that you have the trailer too! The 5 ton dump looks like it's in great condition! I've only done some light offroading with my truck, mainly just driving around the field here. My long term goal is to do a bit of overlanding with it. Nothing too extreme due to the size, but be able to go explore parts of the US and camp off the grid. Now that you are on Steel Soldiers maybe you can find a local event/rally to check out. I go to one every year and it's a blast.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
I have ordered and just received a replacement one way clutch bearing, belt, and new rear axles. Hoping to get that stuff done maybe this coming weekend if I am lucky. Can you post a screenshot of disassembling the clutch? I have partially disassembled the one on my Bobcat UTV so I think it is similar. The Bobcat UTV had a speed limiter bushing that prevented it from achieving the max gear ratio, so I took that out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Alright here you go here's a bunch of pictures
Here is everything to do with the WV850 clutch system you won't need all of it
They did not go on in order so look at the page numbers And buy all the proper tools
I Almost screwed my crank up I use an improper tool to remove the clutch and ruin the threads I was lucky to find the left hand of thread tap And fixed it
Beware of the left handed threads !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I hope you have a big Torque wrench!!!
You replaced the one-way bearing on yours, or no? I have the clutch puller tool, but I do not have the other specialized tools. Looks like I would at least need the spider disassembly tool.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
OK cool, thank you. I'm going to check mine and see if the one way bearing is indeed bad. If it isn't then I'm going to replace the belt and rock on. If the bearing is bad then I may buy the tools. It would be as cheap to buy a replacement driven clutch, but it wouldn't be the oem. I do have the Bobcat UTV as well, so maybe worth having the tools just in case.
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top