Polaris ATV Forum banner

1 - 20 of 43 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
491 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My 550 XP is starting to develop a squealing noise when going down steep hills. It doesn't change with the ADC on or off. It seems not to hold back as good as it used to going downhill. Anyone have any experience with such a problem? The belt doesn't slip on acceleration. And the atv seems to operate just fine besides for this. Any input is appreciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
When I slow down with engine braking I sometimes hear a small squeal. Kinda like brake pads.

Is this the same sort of thing?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
495 Posts
I have noticed the same thing on every Polaris I have ridden on the Hatfield/McCoy trails. When going down long descents, the idle goes down low enough that the engine braking seems to become ineffective and the unit starts to "freewheel" a bit. I had to grab the brakes to keep from becoming a "runaway". I notice a whirring or whining noise that stops when I feather the throttle (which also helps to make the engine braking more effective). This has happened on my early 04 400 Sportsman, my Cousins late model 04 400 Sportsman, my 08 500 EFI and my Cousins 11 400 HO Sportsman. My solution (right or wrong) is to feather the throttle and grab some brakes in the turns where needed. If there is an adjustment for this, please share it! (BESIDES fixing the "loose nut behind the handlebars" lolol)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
495 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
491 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I don`t think I should have to accept it as being normal if it hasn`t done it before and I have 5350 miles on it. Something is worn and I`d like to fix it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,753 Posts
At that mileage you are long overdue for some clutch service. Hopefully you catch it before you need to replace the clutch. Time to pull them both and have them looked at.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
491 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
At that mileage you are long overdue for some clutch service. Hopefully you catch it before you need to replace the clutch. Time to pull them both and have them looked at.
The atv is only 10 months old and I`m very careful not to strain the clutch and belt when riding. My last Sportsman had 9000 miles before I changed the belt and it still looked new when I took it off! What is this one way bearing I`ve been hearing about?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,357 Posts
Are you descending in low or high?
If it's in high then your ground speed may be running below the clutch engagement threshold and burning the belt.

If you're in low then the clutch needs service. 5K is a lot of miles you should service the clutch about now anyway to keep from having a failure.

From orbit via Android.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
491 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Are you descending in low or high?
If it's in high then your ground speed may be running below the clutch engagement threshold and burning the belt.

If you're in low then the clutch needs service. 5K is a lot of miles you should service the clutch about now anyway to keep from having a failure.

From orbit via Android.
I tried it today in low and it did still squeal a bit but it held back good. There have been times going downhill were I noticed it would coast until gave it some throttle. And that was just in high with the ADC off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,753 Posts
2 is the bearing. That usually just needs to be cleaned out an greased. 19 are the 2 washers that wear until the bearing eats into the face of the sheave. Then you are buying a new clutch. 5 are the buttons that slide up and down in the towers as the clutch closes and opens. They wear and create rotational slop. 6 is the roller the weights push against to close the clutch as RPM goes up. They can get dirty and get flat spots on them and stop rolling and keep the clutch from shifting properly. 13 are the weight pins, they get grooved in where the weights sit from being rotated on as the clutch closes and opens. Then the weight cock to the side and rub the towers and cut into the rollers. 3, 11, and 20 are the bushing that require all sorts of specialty dies and fixtures to press out and in to replace without damaging them and should be replaced when more brass than Teflon is visible inside them.

The most important parts to keep an eye on are 19. Without those the clutch will be destroyed very quickly. 5000 miles is typically the service life of one of these clutches before needing some parts and maintenance. And that's an average. I've seen garbage ones under 1000 miles and great ones like your last one at 8-9000 miles.

Unfortunately the clutches are not cheap to repair or replace, and it's the hardest thing to check when buying used, but one of the most important things to check too. Without them you aren't going anywhere.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
495 Posts
Nice explaination, thanks! I also have to admit, it never occured to me to use low range coming down long descents.....DUH!! Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
460 Posts
Ridinagain, how much roughly would it cost to have the clutches serviced, including parts and labor, if someone shipped you their clutches?

Not looking for a dead on quote just rough cost. Say a 2013 550 or 850 machine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,753 Posts
Varies a bit from one clutch to another as the rebuild kits for the primary vary from $140-200. Full rebuild I charge $60 labor, plus shipping. Flat rate box is $12. One way bearing is extra but rarely needed. Secondary rebuild kit is $80-150 depending on type of clutch and $40 labor. Much cheaper in any form than a whole new primary for $450+ or secondary for $300.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,357 Posts
Varies a bit from one clutch to another as the rebuild kits for the primary vary from $140-200. Full rebuild I charge $60 labor, plus shipping. Flat rate box is $12. One way bearing is extra but rarely needed. Secondary rebuild kit is $80-150 depending on type of clutch and $40 labor. Much cheaper in any form than a whole new primary for $450+ or secondary for $300.
My Sportsman 500HO EBS conversion kit (primary secondary, decal, and belt) cost $498.95
If the individual pieces cost that much maybe I should buy a spare kit or two to shelve the clutches, as inexpensive spares, and fleabay the belt(s) because rubber doesn't keep well. :D

I wonder if there are other packages priced this way...

From orbit via Android.



From orbit via Android.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
460 Posts
Varies a bit from one clutch to another as the rebuild kits for the primary vary from $140-200. Full rebuild I charge $60 labor, plus shipping. Flat rate box is $12. One way bearing is extra but rarely needed. Secondary rebuild kit is $80-150 depending on type of clutch and $40 labor. Much cheaper in any form than a whole new primary for $450+ or secondary for $300.
That's not too bad, I am nowhere near needing this. I was just curious for when the day comes...Also, thought it may help rubiconchris.

Thanks for the info ridin!
 
1 - 20 of 43 Posts
Top