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Discussion Starter #1
I just pulled the trigger, well, clicked the button rather on this winch and mount combo. Total was $194, including $35 shipping for the mount. I really hate it when what I want isn't available on Prime!:lame: That's the single reason I'll have to settle for different tires than I want... No prime shipping on Bighorns.... :disappointed:

Anyhow, I would have preferred the Terra35, but the mount was out of stock, and I couldn't find a decent shipping price anywhere else for it. And the KFI mount doesn't work with the Terra Series... So, I had to "settle" for the LT3000. It has a 1-yr electrical and 2-yr mechanical warranty, and with what I go through, they'll break inside that window if they're gonna break.

Anyone had a problem with this winch? Mount?

I've read that Superwinch sends a circuit breaker with a hot body with these units, can anyone here personally verify that? I'll check it before I install, and I can always go down to the marine supply store here and pick up a dead body, sealed breaker. Just wondered if there's any truth to the internet rumors.

I should have the winch and mount in-hand by the end of next week. When I get it all in, I'll post pics and a step-by step guide on here for common reference. I'm an electronics technician by trade, and I work on equipment exposed to saltwater 24/7, so I'll post a few tricks and tips for weather/waterproofing along with it.
 

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JG, yes I purchased this winch. Like you it was not my first choice. I tried for the Promark (formerly Gorilla) Anyway it works well and bolted right up for me.Ken
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Alright, got the winch in the other day, started my installation tonight.

I'll start with saying that there are no good options that I could see for mounting the solenoid or circuit breaker in the front end of my 850 Touring. Every time I would look at a spot and think it would work, I'd figure out a reason why it wouldn't.

I started with taking off all the front plastic. It wasn't that hard, and only took about 20 minutes or so. I removed the front OEM storage box, side engine covers, front end plastic, and the bumper. I removed some other pieces as well, but they weren't really necessary.

Out of all the items they sent me, the circuit breaker was the most useless. Two buss bars (the two aluminum pieces of flat bar that everything is bolted to) with two 50amp thermal breakers in parallel. No covering, no protection, no way to mount it. Throw this away, but save the cables that are bolted to the buss bars.
throw away.jpg

I replaced it with this Blue Sea Systems 100amp Thermal Circuit Breaker. I also had a small piece of 4x0.25 aluminum flat bar cut out at a local welding shop as a backer for the breaker in case I wound up needing to mount the circuit breaker on body plastic, turns out I didn't need it. Oh well, $1.23 I'll never miss....
circuit breaker.jpg

Before you start installing the solenoid, take the mounting bracket off, be careful not to lose the plastic/rubber/whatever washers under there. Drop a dab of RTV over the mounting holes and put the bracket back on. On the other side of the solenoid, there are two more screws that can be used for mounting the bracket. Also remove them and put a dab of RTV on those holes and re-tighten. Now, when I said there's no good places to mount the solenoid, I really mean it. The front end is tight. I wound up using the right side vertical aluminum frame member in front of the radiator. It's the default mounting location for the Polaris winch solenoid (which actually lines up with the existing holes, the one from Superwinch does not, as seen in the pic). I had to drill a 0.25" hole to pass the top bolt through, used the existing hole for the bottom.
solenoid mounted.jpg

Now, if you drill through here, don't just zip the drill bit on through, you'll crack the "X" bracing on the inside of that bar. Take it slow, use lube on the drill bit, and let it slowly do the work. I used some pieces of U-bolt brackets to give the nuts more "bite" on the bar and not put too much stress on any one of the "X" braces. And I put flat and lock washers over that.
back of solenoid.jpg

Likewise, there's not a real good place to mount the circuit breaker either. I finally settled on the front of the bracket that the fuse block mounts on. There's a locking tab on the left side of the fuse block that you need to lift up, then slide the whole fuse block assembly off to the left of the machine. Line up the circuit breaker, mark, and drill. I put the bolt heads in from the back of the bracket and put the nuts on the circuit breaker side.
circuit breaker front.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Here, you just can see the bolt heads in-between the bracket and the fuse block assembly, after sliding the fuse block back into place. It will be TIGHT, just take your time and be careful to line up both tabs underneath and don't break them. They're just plastic.
back of circuit breaker.jpg

More to follow tomorrow, It's after midnight here.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
So, I piddled around with it more today off and on. I started with mounting the handlebar switch on the right handlebar. I took a small strip of 3M 2228 Mastic Tape and put on each curved bracket to keep it from sliding or moving around. If you don't have this type of tape, a few wraps of electrical tape around the handlebars will suffice. Here's the facing side of the switch.
switch front.jpg

And the back side. As you can see, I added wire loom (3/8") to the existing protector sleeve already installed on the cable. I ran it down through the headlight pod and out the bottom on the left side of the handlebar yoke by the main wiring harness loom. Then forward and down to the solenoid, you'll see a pic of that later on.
switch back.jpg

Now, if you're trying to figure out where that little red wire that pokes out of the in/out switch cable goes, this is the wire to connect it to (holding it with thumb and forefinger). It's a small orange and white wire, accompanied by two others (I think those are for battery tender ? Not sure though...), on the left side of the battery, more or less hanging loose. Here's what I'm talking about.
acc wire.jpg

I don't like spade/quick disconnect connectors. I hate them, especially on anything that will see some vibrations or jarring. So, I snipped the existing female spade connector off (it's wrapped in black heat shrink from the factory) and stripped the end of it, and the red wire from the in/out switch. I used a butt splice connector, it has heat shrink already on it, but when I crimp those things, I almost always wind up punching through the heat shrink around the connector body with the crimp on my lineman's pliers. So, I just slid a piece of black heat shrink over the connector body beforehand to cover that up and protect it. Here's what it looks like after installing the connector and putting the heat gun on it. There's another butt splice connector pictured to see what it looks like pre-install.
acc wire butt conn.jpg

Then I fed that into the wire loom I used over the factory sleeve for the in/out switch cable, then zip-tied it in place to make sure the connector won't rattle out of the loom. I used wire loom (3/8") from the bottom of the headlight pod all the way to the solenoid.
butt conn loomed.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Once I got the in/out switch wired up to the solenoid, I started running the positive cables from the battery to the circuit breaker and from the circuit breaker to the solenoid. Then I ran the negative cable from the solenoid to the negative terminal on the battery.

I ran all positive power cables inside wire loom, as well as the control wires in the post above. I didn't run the negative power cables in wire loom, partly because it's basically sandwiched in between the other two looms, partly because it's not a huge deal if the negative comes into contact with the frame, but mainly because I didn't buy enough wire loom. You'll need two packs of loom if you want to do your negative cables inside wire loom.

Here's a picture of the circuit breaker (mounted to the front of the fuse block bracket in front of the radiator) after wiring, looming, and putting a couple coats of liquid electrical tape on the terminals. Those rubber things hanging around are the caps that go on the end of the live terminals. They'll be put into place after the liquid electrical tape dries good.
wired breaker.jpg

Now, remember when I said I hated spade/quick disconnect electrical connectors? I hate the little round ones more. Maybe some people like the idea of having the wired remote switch useable, but for me, I don't foresee ever needing it, so I didn't include it in my installation. I can always add it, using what's called a "military splice" if I really want to. If you want to wire in your remote switch cables, I would recommend using a military splice, only don't just wrap the splice in electrical tape... Actually solder it, then coat it a couple of times in liquid electrical tape, then a layer of tape. It will last a forever if you solder it.

Now, since I didn't want the remote switch port, and since the handlebar in/out switch cable was about 18" too long, I snipped off what I didn't need and crimped on small terminal connectors, then soldered them to ensure absolute connection and strength. Here's a picture of the solenoid wired up and coated with a couple coats of liquid electrical tape. You can kind of see where I ran the wires up the inside of that vertical frame piece in front of the radiator (which is covered in cardboard, I'd hate to have to buy a new one because I dropped a screwdriver or something stupid like that)
solenoid wired.jpg

Now, in this photo, you can see the 3-wire/loom bundle just to the left of the main wiring harness. The wire looms have an extra layer, about 3" long, right where they cross over the radiator. The positive power lead from the circuit breaker runs over the radiator, then takes a turn to the right side of the machine (left side of the picture) to connect to the positive battery terminal. In/out switch runs all the way back to the handlebar yoke alongside the main wiring harness and up through the headlight pod. Negative power cable dead-ends at the negative battery terminal.
looms and batt.jpg

Now, a few suggestions.

- Save your battery connections for last. Especially if you're going to use that "circuit breaker" that comes with the winch. If you go with a sealed marine circuit breaker like the one I used, you should still wait to connect to your battery until last. Make sure the circuit breaker is tripped (yellow flag showing, at least on mine) before you connect.

- Don't forget the 5th torx-head screw on the back side of the headlight pod in the middle. Don't ask.

- Definitely cover your radiator with something, I used a piece of cardboard. Anything is better than nothing, but you don't want to ruin your fins because you dropped the wrench you were using on your battery terminals.

- Take your time. I'm anal-retentive, I have a touch of OCD. I have to take my time doing things and do it right the first time or I'll just wind up tearing it all down and starting over.

- Trim all your cables to length. You don't want an extra five feet of 6 gauge cable zip-tied to your quad. Trim it, strip the end, and crimp on a new lug. If you're lie me, you'll wind up soldering the lugs just to be safe.

- There is no easy and clean way to apply liquid electrical tape. Wait until you have pretty much everything connected and just coat the whole darn solenoid and circuit breaker terminals. Let it dry for 30 mins and go put another coat on. Repeat as many times as you think you need to get good protection. I'll probably add another 2-4 coats to all my connections by the time it's all said and done. The main point here is to eliminate as much water contacting conductive surfaces as possible. Water leads to corrosion, corrosion leads to poor electrical connections, poor electrical connections lead to winches not working when you need them.

- I haven't received my winch mount yet (hoping it shows up tomorrow), so I have not run the cables from the solenoid output to the winch yet. I want my cables exactly the right length, and I don't guesstimate. With that being said, I had to check the solenoid output with my multimeter, it works so far. All that's left it the mount and the winch itself.

I'll post the final stages of actually mounting the winch mount and winch, fairlead, and cabling when I get the mount. If anyone has anything to add, or has any questions, now's the time so I can get pics of whatever you want while I still have all the front plastic off.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I guess I really should have posted this in the "How-to" forum...

Mods, a little help?
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Finally got the winch mount in today and finished the install.

The directions sent along with the mount were pretty well-laid out. Not only did they include directions for installing the mount, but they also had directions for installing the winch and electrical components, specific to the XP line, as well as directions specific to the value line.

I followed the directions included with the mount as far as mounting and installing the fair lead, winch, and mount with one exception: the mount requires the winch to be bolted in upside down. Meaning that the winch itself has the bottom facing up in the mount housing. With it being mounted upside down, and with the directions saying that "the winch line should feed from the bottom of the winch for clearance purposes" obviously the bottom of the winch is now facing up, so your line would feed from the top of the spool according to these directions. I didn't follow that part, because it would have caused me to flip the winch around so that the electrical connections were on the left side of the quad. My solenoid is already installed on the right side and I didn't want to have to re-do it all or run unnecessary cable. Not to mention I didn't see any "clearance issues" with having it feed out from the opposite side of the spool. If you follow those directions, your "in" switch will actually be out, and your "out" will actually be in. To correct that, all you have to do is swap the green and black wires (from the in/out switch) where they connect on the solenoid.

Let me know if anything I've posted is unclear or if you need more information or pics. I'll post pics of the final product tomorrow from my computer.

EDITED to Add Pics:

Where mount bolts to frame, looking at the right side of the machine.
mount bolts.jpg

Wiring connections on winch, after a couple coats of liquid electrical tape. Positive connection on the front (right side of pic), negative on the other side.
winch side.jpg

Final solenoid connections, after a couple coats of liquid electrical tape.
solenoid final.jpg

Solenoid to winch wiring, I loomed as much as possible, I ran out about 4" short on the negative cable though. You probably need about 15' of wire loom to do this job completely, with each cable individually loomed. You could probably get by with 10' of 3/8" loom, but you'd have to have another 3-5' of 1/2" or 5/8" loom to double up some of the 6ga cable runs.
winch sol.jpg

Completed install, just need to put the plastic back on.
completed naked.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Finally put back together and ready to ride again. I think the most difficult part of this entire install was getting the darn gas tank fill neck/cap removed from the body plastic so I could put it back in place to seal the neck after pulling off the body.

Second most difficult part was settling on a place to mount the solenoid and breaker. There's not a whole lot of room on the front of these XP's. You're pretty much stuck with the vertical frame pieces in front of the radiator. And for that mounting location, the Polaris winch solenoid would probably be the better choice over the one Superwinch sends with the kit. But you can easily mount whatever solenoid you need to on those vertical frame pieces.

final.jpg

Hope I've been able to help, let me know if you're having any problems wit your winch install and I'll be glad to help.
 

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I know this is an old thread but have a question. My atv is prewired for a winch, do I still need to use a circuit breaker of some sort or has polaris already done that?
 

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It should come with an inline fuse.


Sent from my MB886 using Tapatalk
 

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Box to replace the passenger seat

Finally put back together and ready to ride again. I think the most difficult part of this entire install was getting the darn gas tank fill neck/cap removed from the body plastic so I could put it back in place to seal the neck after pulling off the body.

Second most difficult part was settling on a place to mount the solenoid and breaker. There's not a whole lot of room on the front of these XP's. You're pretty much stuck with the vertical frame pieces in front of the radiator. And for that mounting location, the Polaris winch solenoid would probably be the better choice over the one Superwinch sends with the kit. But you can easily mount whatever solenoid you need to on those vertical frame pieces.

View attachment 15634

Hope I've been able to help, let me know if you're having any problems wit your winch install and I'll be glad to help.
Hey! I'm looking at the box on the back of your machine, and it looks home made but well done. Could you give us a lowdown on what you did for that?

Thanks!
 

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Thanks for this great post! I'm already puled all my hair! .. I'm going to install KFI mount with 3500 BADLAND winch on my 2014 550 EPS . I got question so being upside down does it work good?

In your post you said "the winch line should feed from the bottom of the winch for clearance purposes" obviously the bottom of the winch is now facing up, so your line would feed from the top of the spool according to these directions. I didn't follow that part, because it would have caused me to flip the winch around so that the electrical connections were on the left side of the quad."
So do you regret for not doing the other way?

Thanks!
 
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