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trailer adding ramp

6.3K views 20 replies 9 participants last post by  ThorsHammer  
#1 · (Edited)
I have a steal home built trailer that I mostly only use for my sportsman 570 I have tri fold aluminum ramps which I have to set up every time to put on and off atv. Was thinking instead of building ramps to get hinges and bolt the tri fold aluminum ramp to the trailer just wondering if anyone has tried this and been successful
 
#5 ·
I don't know that you'll like it when you're done, depending on the position of the ramp when it's up. When folding ramps are vertical they act like a "sail" when your going down the road. If you are going any distance it will effect your gas mileage.
 
#6 ·
Let me see if I am following correctly. You want to permanently attach the tri-fold ramp to the trailer using what... door hinges?

First, the tri-fold ramp is Aluminum, and it's strength is in the ramp sitting on top of whatever is being loaded on to.

Second, Aluminum and steel don't like to mix overly well. so you're not welding a hinge on that matches both the trailer and the ramp.

Third, by hinging the ramp to the trailer, the entire load would need to be supported by the hinges. and how they are attached to both the trailer, and the ramp. So typical hardware store bolt on hinges aren't going to work.

So once you've gotten the ramp attached to the trailer in a manner that allows the ramp to be lifted and lowered, you'll need a means of securing the ramp in the "up" position. not impossible, just not something that usually looks nice unless the trailer was designed to have a flip up ramp.

Then you've got to consider how big of a sail you're going to have. 4', 6', 8'? Now, most tri-fold ramps aren't expanded metal like you'd find on a typical utility trailer drop down ramp. there are usually ladder style so I'm not sure how much of a sail affect you'd actually have from it.

Not to say that this couldn't be done, just don't think using the existing detached ramp is the best idea. If you've got the tools, and the skill making your own steel ladder ramp would be the best option. on that folds in the middle to reduce the height of the ramp while towing but allows for a better approach angle. But you'd need to be able to weld it all together, and get proper weld on hinges.​
 
#7 ·
Since the ramps fold up "width" wise, I'm not sure why you would want to attach them?
 
#10 ·
Yes, it is still a factor. But to me it's rather a choice of which of the two evils you'd like to have....

1) the convenience of a built in /fold down easy loading ramp!

-or-

2) slightly better gas mileage, remember you still will have the ATV (sail) on the trailer too!

As for attaching the aluminum tri-fold style ramp to your steel trailer.... I think it's a poor idea if done from a non-skilled DIY bolt-on type application. But if a skilled welder were to weld the ramp sections solid and then weld 'hinge tubes' onto both the ramp and trailer frame and then use a solid pin/bolt of 3/8" or 1/2" to attach it it would be far better.... just look "hokie".
 
#13 ·
I have full width tailgate ramps on my trailer and there great, I have them as two ramps one each side so it's not so heavy to lift, another little feature I did is to have them fold right over and lay in the trailer, for if you wish to store in a low shed or carport, or for driving around when empty
 
#19 ·
This will work if you have a trailer long enough to pull the atv onto it and then fold the ramp over and into the trailer, but if you have a short trailer you will be laying the ramp over and onto the atv itself and that's not a very good idea, but if you have a trailer big enough...not a bad idea at all
 
#14 ·
Are they ladder style, or do they have expanded metal surfaces?
 
#15 · (Edited)
I've got 8' ramps for my tandem axle flat bed trailer. They are a bow string design (picture below) and are conservatively rated to hold 3200 lbs each. they weigh about 40 lbs and are made of 1"x2"x1/8" rectangular tubing, 1"x3/16" flat strap, and 2"x2"x1/8" angle iron. The load rating was given with the main rails straight and the "bow string" arched, but when I built them I arched the main rail and kept the bow string straight. which increased the load rating. I can load a Case Skid steer with my 8' ramps and they cost me less to build than any commercially available ramp I've found on the market, and a fraction of the cost of ramps that would support the same load. they slide under the deck of the trailer out of the way and can be used for rear loading and side loading.

The biggest draw back for the tail gate ramps for me is the lack of versatility. You've got one ramp, in one spot, and that's it. Now, depending on the design of the trailer, that might be just fine, but just not for me.
 

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#18 ·
it's called expanded metal by anyone that works with metal. as that is it's technical name. At least in the US. Mesh would be a welded wire mesh. Not one sheet of metal expanded through slotting and pulling the metal.