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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,

New Sportsman owner here. Just got a 2005 Sportsman 700 EFI. Have taken it on a few short rides and no issues until just the other day. Just the other day I went to load it in my truck. When I went to unload it a few minutes later in Reverse it just started to roll - but I wasn't giving it any throttle. Got it out of the truck and didn't have any other issues moving it around a little bit that day.

Then today I went to go ride it up and down the street and it started doing it again but more consistent. High, Low, or Reverse it just starts rolling like I am giving it throttle but I am not touching it. I have to be on the brakes hard to stop it. Then its really hard to get it back to neutral. From my research I gather its an issue with the belt. I already have a spare. Idle is around 1150.

Trying to pull the current belt cover off, but the gasket material feels like super glue and its not budging. Any tips?

Anything else to look for?
 

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Sounds like you're on the right path as far as the problem. As far as cover removal, double check all screws are removed along with air intake. Sometimes people seal the cover using silicone to make them more waterproof.
 

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Your problem is probably in the belt housing, but more likely the primary clutch is dragging the belt, not the belt itself. Your idle is in the right range, so the belt should just sit there and the secondary should not move. As it is, I would bet the primary is grabbing the belt, which turns the secondary. You didn't say how many hours or miles, but I think it's time to rebuild the primary clutch
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Got the cover off.

Quad has 4200 miles/300 hours.

Is there anything I can check while it's apart?



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Fire it up in Neutral or Park. Your secondary clutch should not be turning. If it does, look at where the belt rides in the primary. Chances are, the belt is riding against the outside sheave. Does this machine have EBS? there will be a decal on the belt cover.

You can get the belt off and check the one way clutch in the center of the primary. It should turn one way but not the other. Check the counter weights for side to side movement. Probably they are floppy. Weights and the bolts they ride on get wallowed out. You look at the rollers on the inside of the spider. Make sure they are moving smoothly.
 

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The primary has grooves on the center shaft that the belt ride on to keep the belt centered. If the belt gets worn enough it can rest offset causing the belt to ride against the inner sheave at idle. To test if that's your problem, with the machine off move the belt in the primary to the center of the two sheaves. Then start the machine. It should idle without spinning the secondary. If that works, then your belt is just very worn and needs replacing.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
@stave. I fired it up in park and the secondary is spinning. Both at idle and reva. It does have EBS.

I took the belt off. The 3 counter weights (which look like camshaft lobes almost) have side to side movement when I push the clutch in like RPMs are up.


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Ok, you are gonna have to go into it farther to find the problem. You can probably roll the belt off. I start at the secondary and work the belt off of it then you can pull the belt off the primary. Measure the width of the belt. It is tapered so the outside is wider than the inside. Spec is anything under 1.125" is shot. check your one way clutch on the primary. that grooved part should move.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yep I have the belt off now. Measurements below but looks to be well within spec.

The one way clutch on the primary did spin one way by hand.

Width of the Old belt: 1.173
Width of the New belt: 1.185
 

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Yep, belt is good! Bad news is the washers inside are probably shot. Parts are not that expensive, but you have to take the clutch apart which means special tools. From Polaris about $300 for everything. You can find cheaper ones on Ebay or make your own. The other option is to buy the puller tool and take the clutch to a dealership and let them rebuild it. Another option still is to buy an aftermarket clutch. Parts Ace on ebay sells for around $200 but it's a throw away. Can't rebuild it. Comet makes a replacement too. About $350 for a complete piece.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Thanks for the detailed info.

A few follow-up questions. How bad do you think the clutch is right now? Is this a red flag that its going to blow at any minute and cause a bunch of damage or can I get a trail ride in this weekend and fix it after?

As far as the throw away clutches go how long will those last? Can I get 2-3000 miles out of them if easy trail riding? I didn't see a clutch on Parts Ace for the 700. Only the 500 with EBS. Ill check out Comet also.

When you say washers are probably shot what #s are you looking at? I was thinking I would need to replace the weight bolts, buttons maybe, and hopefully call it good or are you thinking part 16 and 2 might be bad and therefore catching the 1 way clutch?
 

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No, the clutch is not gonna self destruct. It will just make changing gears harder. I have a buddy with an 05 500 and his has been dragging for about a year now. He plans for me to put a Comet clutch on it but hasn't wanted to part with the cash yet.

You should be good for the weekend. It will be harder on brakes since it will always be trying to move.

Jury is still out on the Parts Ace clutches that I have. Since the Magnums don't come with a speedo or odometer, I do not know miles. I have plowed with the 325 for a few years and done some trail rides. Less than 500 miles I would guess. No issues and no intent to replace it yet.

#16 and #2 are the washers that wear out. It allows the outer sheave to move closer to the middle which causes the clutch to drag the belt. You should also throw in the spacer #3 also. And the problem will return. Dealer told me that he has been able to rebuild the clutch 3 times before the results are not worth the effort. Time for a new clutch then
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Awesome, that makes me feel much better. I really appreciate your prompt advice.

I did cruise up and down the street yesterday and after a few acceleration and cruising it seemed to go away. I don't know if just the friction warms up the belt or what. The original issue was when its first cold and starting. Either way Ill track down the parts and probably tear it down when I have time. I have a puller arriving this week as well as the replacement gasket so i'll probably pull the primary before I put it all back together to get a good look at the sheave to make sure that's not cracked. From there I can make a determination based on my options and whats likely the best route.

I did a little bit of research on the aftermarket clutches. Parts Ace doesn't make one for the 700 and Comet's doesn't have EBS. So its not an ideal situation. I cant tell if its been rebuild already. Someone marked X on the side to align the clutch parts so I don't know if they come from the factory like that or if someone did the rebuild once.
 

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They do not come from the factory with the marks on them. They are balanced as an assembly. Yeah the Comet clutch does not come with EBS which is a down side. However they are a lot cheaper than the OEM. and they come complete. With the OEM, you still have to swap in your weights and spring. Comet clutches have been around for a long time. They were the go to clutch for snowmobiles back in the 70s.

Neither of my 325 machines or the wife's 500 have EBS. My 600 does but I don't really notice that much difference. It's all in what you get used to.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
How do the comet clutches stand in terms of the springs and weights? Are they equal to Polaris? The concern I have for loosing EBS is a lot of the trail riding will be on hills with loose and steep rocks. Its a heavy quad (I am used to dirtbikes) so the better the breaking is would be ideal.

Just went out and checked the face of the outer sheave. I was worried it might have hairline cracks after watching a how-to on the rebuild. Sure enough every inch or so looks like a short perpendicular 1/4" long crack. Looks like I will probably go the route of the Comet.
 

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The Comet clutch has always been advertised as a Performance clutch. It did wake up the Scrambler I put it on...But the old clutch was so bad I am surprised it moved at all.....all the buttons were gone off the spider and it was clattering around inside there.....so I really don't have a before and after comparison on that one. IF you cal them or a distributor, they should be able to hook you up with a set up clutch that suits your machine and needs.

Honestly, I don't think you will miss the EBS. Yes I think it helps on the steep hills, but judicious use of the brakes can do the same thing.
 

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Keith, I just went thru this. Stave helped me a bunch. He knows what he's talking about! The special tools are 1) to hold everything while you take it apart. 2) to hold the spider to unscrew it. The spider is at 200 ft. lbs! I made my own tools. That's a 15" adjustable wrench with a 3' pipe extension on it!
Oh, and stave, I never did get the one way bearing off. It soaked in P.B blaster for days. It wont turn or even budge. I haven't worked on it since last saturday thanks to Oroville dam. We evacuated on sunday eve. All my tools are packed up on my trailer and ready to bug out if needed. I guess it's time for a new clutch? Parts Ace has one for $268. Non EBS is $165

Edit: I totally missed page 2. Doh! :inwc:
 

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Ridin' Glad I could be of help. I am surprised you couldn't get it to come loose. It needs to be replaced anyway, so it can't hurt to beat on it now. But yeah, probably time for a new clutch. I know they lifted the evacuation earlier this week, is there still a possibility of a failure there? Hope it all works out for you!

Keith, I just drove both my machine with EBS and the wifes machine today through the same obstacles. Down hills included. If you are used to bikes, then you can do this. Skills are the same, machine just has 4 wheels instead of 2......Don't get me wrong, you can still get your shit in trouble quick, but you don't need a kickstand.
 

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We're still on flood alert here. My tools are still packed up on my flatbed trailer, ready to bug out. My toy hauler with my bikes, firearms, important papers are out at my daughters place an hour away. It's only a short drive from her place to the mts to west. Hope I don't have to.

The bearing: I think it may have gotten so hot, that it "welded" itself to the shaft. I had an idea yesterday of welding something to it and using a flywheel puller and see what happens. Probably rip the bearing apart. Then, maybe a cut-off wheel? The shaft is probably torn up either way.
 

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Yeah, the shaft is probably scrap anyway so it can't hurt it any more to weld and cut to get it off.

Hope all goes well with the flood situation! Can't imagine what the must be like.
 
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