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Carb can be rebuilt - fuel pump maybe - many times rebuilding a carb does not take any parts - other times just a gasket set - yet other times a full rebuild kit - on the edge of not being worth fixing is when the slide diaphragm needs to be replaced - otherwise a full blown rebuild is about $100 in my shop - average service is $60 - light cleaning $20 - a slide diaphragm (if needed) adds about $125 to whatever else is required.

Fuel pump rebuild kit about $60 - installed about $20
 

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Discussion Starter #62
40 degree air temperature. Starts OK and runs smooth, but won't stay running without some throttle. Guessing a Choke adjustment issue.

Neutral/Reverse light module removed. It's marked 14V. Can I use an LED with resistor or does it have to be incandescent?

Speedometer keeps twisting clockwise. Is there a clamping device I can't see or do I just use RTV?

It starts in Gear. Should it? Doesn't seem safe.
 

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Discussion Starter #63
I don't seem to be able to get the free play they talk about for the choke cable on page 2-12 of the 5/98 Service Manual. I can get it to idle smooth by means of the Throttle Block adjustment, but by time I got that far, the air temperature was warming and the engine was warm, so I may have been chasing shadows.
 

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No starting in gear is not safe, you may need to replace the neutral safety switch. I have a 2011 850xp and my Speedo tightens up with the face ring. Not sure you can use leds?
 

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Discussion Starter #65
Now I can't get it started again. Had it running and idling good. Now nothing. No idea what happened. Made a couple of adjustments to the throttle cable screws, but nothing that should prevent starting. Will let it sit for a while in case I flooded it somehow.
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Is there anything electrical that could have burned out preventing ignition? It isn't even trying to start now. Cranks, but nothing else.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
OK, so even if you have gas, KNOW you have gas and can see gas in the tank ... add gas. Checked it with a flashlight and I could see most of the main screen showing above the level. Flipped it over to Reserve and got it started. Then added more gas and started on the Main position.


New problem though. Remember the bit about locking up, no steering? Did that again just now. But I noticed that the brake lever wouldn't move at all, even with both hands. After a few minutes sitting to cool, I began to get some movement in the lever. That increased after a few more minutes and eventually I could drive again. For a few minutes until it seized up again. Letting it cool again now so I can get it back to the work area.

So, who wants to tell me about brakes and what to look for? Similar to a car ... calipers, pads, etc.? Replace? Purge/bleed?
 

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Discussion Starter #68
Wow, nobody? Must have overstayed my welcome again, as usual.

Anyways ... making some progress. Pins and a few other things were pretty groty once I got it all torn open. Some like emery cloth work and lube make things work together much better. Been a real pain trying to bleed the system though. I think I had one line partially blocked and had to open both end and blow it out. Some creative use of gravity and fluid/air flow and I seem to be getting back to where I have pressure on the pads when I squeeze the handle. I'll know more in the next hour or so. May still need to tear it all down again and replace both sets of calipers and pads.


Curious about this though on the right front. What's happening here? There are no corresponding marks that I can see on the tire or rim.



Nothing similar on the left front.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Brakes are back together. Got pressure. Started easily and idled OK in 70 degree air. Drove slow and short at first to check brakes. Handle seems more responsive than it did, more travel, but not soft. Seemed OK, drove a bit more, tested again, worked fine. Went for a longer ride, tested things several times, shifting, braking. All seemed OK.

Then the red Overheat light came on again. That hasn't happened for days. Looked down at the coolant bottle, fluid to high mark, but not overflowing.

No brake lock up.

Right Front tire is leaning in towards the to so it's probably rubbing that arm at some point, but I don't see any way to adjust it.
 

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40 degree air temperature. Starts OK and runs smooth, but won't stay running without some throttle. Guessing a Choke adjustment issue.

Neutral/Reverse light module removed. It's marked 14V. Can I use an LED with resistor or does it have to be incandescent?

Speedometer keeps twisting clockwise. Is there a clamping device I can't see or do I just use RTV?

It starts in Gear. Should it? Doesn't seem safe.
Speedo has a clamp behind it. As far as I am aware, ALL Polaris machines will start in gear. Some you have to hold the brake but not the most of the older models.
Indicator lights are a plug-in self contained unit. $18 on ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Polaris-Neutral-Reverse-Indicator-Light-4040054/372576005997?epid=1423312742&hash=item56bf42af6d:g:~V8AAOSwikBcR3UK
 

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Discussion Starter #71
Clamped the speedo down as best I could. May need a dab of glue yet. Brakes may still need to be replaced. It'll stop fine, but relaxes in Park enough to be able to roll.

Changed the front 'angle drive' fluid. Doesn't seem to be much in there.

Not sure about the tire rubbing the tie rod end yet or a few other things mentioned above.

Started and ran OK today without much fiddling, air temp near 60.
 

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Clamped the speedo down as best I could. May need a dab of glue yet. Brakes may still need to be replaced. It'll stop fine, but relaxes in Park enough to be able to roll.

Changed the front 'angle drive' fluid. Doesn't seem to be much in there.

Not sure about the tire rubbing the tie rod end yet or a few other things mentioned above.

Started and ran OK today without much fiddling, air temp near 60.
Yeah, only 3.25 oz. of angle drive in the front of that machine.
 
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