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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,
My I replaced my head gasket on my 97 - 2 cycle 400 engine cause it was blowing water out the Exhaust.

It still does it, so I put a Leak down tester on the radiator and moved the piston to TDC then pumped it up to 13 LBS.
It held ok, with a slow bleed off, so I moved the piston to BDC and pumped it up to 13 LBS. it dropped like a rock!

So I took the Crank Case Drain screw out and a few drops of Water came out, so I was thinking the Jug was cracked toward the bottom. I was about to tear it apart when I noticed the Recoil rope was wet?

I took the Recoil drain plug out and it pored green antifreeze like a coffee maker!!

Could my water pump be bad and leaking water into the crank case, then pumped out the exhaust when the piston goes down?

Any Ideas or help would be appreciated! :trink4:

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Well no Ideas yet, so I'm working on figuring this out myself I guess. Would think with all the users on here someone had the same problem by now???

So here are some pictures of a Crank case (not mine) Still trying to figure out how the water is getting into the exhaust.

Any suggestions? :hmmm:

Thanks,
Mike
 

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My "99" did the same thing, rope wet & oily. Once the coolant gets into the crankcase it is pulled through the cylinder during the intake stroke & eventually out of the cylinder during exhaust. The design of a 2 stroke does this since the crankcase is part of the intake runner. Go here A two-stroke for a quick 2 stroke lesson and pay special attention to the part where the fresh mixture is pulled into the header, thats where your coolant is coming from. Buddy
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So do you think as I do, that my water pump is leaking bad and it's getting into the crank case and then out the exhaust?

I guess I'm going to have to tear it all apart and check the seals, water pump, gakets, and bearings for damage!

Oh well, guess I'll get it steamed cleaned as well so it's like new!!
Mike
 

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Most likely water pump seals as you thought. There's a guy named Todd Kerby that does exellent work that will do the entire engine. He's located in Dallas, Tx came highly recommended from another site I'm on, go here http://www.polarisatvrepair.com/rebuild_services.php and check him out. He'll do the entire engine w/ a Wiseco piston and all related bearings & seals for $650.00 including return shipping with a 6 month warranty. The factory pistons are notorious for blowing up. All you do is pull it and ship it to him and he'll fix you up. Buddy
 

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Before you replace your water pump seals, make sure you remove any pitting that may be on the counterbalancer shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Great thanks for the Info and Advice!
I really can't afford $650, so I guess I'll have to do it, but thats part of learning
to work on stuff.

I'll let you know how it goes.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Took apart.....

Well I took the Engine apart, and it's worse
than I thought. The water pump bearing was
completely gone. and it's bearing seal was chewed up as pictured below.

I belive the Counter balance bearings and the crank bearings are
bad as well. :disappointed:

The water pump must have been leaking for a longer time than known,
and there seemed to be no oil in the counter balance oil case.

My big problem now is getting that stupid Slotted Nut off! No tool,
and I hammered it with a punch tool and hammer but it still won't
move! :motz:

Trying to find someone on here with a tool for sell.
So here are some pictures of the case as it is now.

Any suggestions??

Mike
 

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I could be wrong but it looks like you were using the punch on the wrong side on the slots. It appears as if you were tightening the nut not loosing it. Try the other sides.
 

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I know it sounds expensive, but go to the recommended site and at least do the bottom end rebuild $420.00 plus shipping to him. You won't be sorry for the piece of mind, not to mention he'll save you big $$$ on possible needed parts being has has good used parts at hand. Just my 2 cents. Good luck which ever path you decide to take, Buddy.
 

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I could be wrong but it looks like you were using the punch on the wrong side on the slots. It appears as if you were tightening the nut not loosing it. Try the other sides.
The slotted nut is left handed thread.
 

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I could be wrong but it looks like you were using the punch on the wrong side on the slots. It appears as if you were tightening the nut not loosing it. Try the other sides.
The slotted nut is left handed thread.
+1 it's reverse-threaded. They make a tool for it, but a hammer and punch will work, albeit crudely.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I thought the nut was left hand so you hit it to the right to take off??
Maybe I am thinking backward?

Thanks
Mike
 

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From your picture, your hitting the correct side.
 

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The nut should come off with a punch. It does need to turn clockwise to remove. If you crankshaft is spinning, you can take off the clutch cover on the other side of the machine and wedge a bar of some sort through the clutch and against the foot well.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I got the nut off, Big hammer and a Punch tool.
After looking at it I got disappointed. :sad6:
I found a guy that had a used engine that he said ran but needed
rings as It had low compression. So I looked it over and bought it.
Now I have to take it apart and check everything out good before
I even try to put it on my machine.

Hope it's a good Motor!
Thanks,
Mike
 
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