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Discussion Starter #1
I have a '13 sportsman 500 with the glacier plow and warn winch set up. I love the set up, but sometimes it doesn't get down to the pavement. Most of the time it will get down to the bottom but I was looking for a way to put some weight on the plow so it could "dig" down a little better. I looked around the internet and couldn't find anything. I'm guessing somebody else has had this issue, so anyone got any suggestions?

Thanks.
 

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Did you try running the feet up a little on the back? Make sure that they aren't making contact before the blade is.
 

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you can mount a weight on the top. Some people have strapped pipes filled with concrete and steel to the top to add approximately 75lbs of weight to the blade. adjusting the feet could help if they aren't already up. Also the blade angle can effect if it's not adjusted right it will want to ride up.
 

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Warm makes something to provide downforce. Like a lift support for a hatchback car. I don't know if they fit all plows. I do recall seeing something on here last winter where a guy made his own. I agree that lifting and driving with an additional 75 lbs out there.
 

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There are a few places that sell a down force weight that bolts onto the top of the plow. It is just a chunk of square stock with bolts to mount it.
 

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Warm makes something to provide downforce. Like a lift support for a hatchback car. I don't know if they fit all plows. I do recall seeing something on here last winter where a guy made his own. I agree that lifting and driving with an additional 75 lbs out there.

Kfi has something like this too.
 

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there are a few places that sell the downforce pistons...I read the cycle country one works pretty good...they must be all basicly the same....I took this all into consideration when I was getting my plow set up for the new machine I just got..i wanted a HEAVY blade..cycle country made a Bear Force pro blade a few years back...was a bug heavy blade...it weighs 110# with wearbar an it...but was discountinued for there new poly blade....but I searched high an low online an found one....it was being discounted as no longer made....its a beast..

Any ways here is a link to see the down force set up....look at other models also....

Amazon.com: Cycle Country Gas Down Force Kit for Push Tube 10-0230: Automotive
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the replies. The force applied on that cycle country kit is 150#. I think I'm gonna go with the pipe/concrete method first since it'll be free. If that doesn't work then I'll invest in the cycle country kit. One more question tho, does that kit fit to my machine and plow? I don't believe it says any specific applications on that link.


Sent from space
 

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New to Polaris 400??

Hello, I got this Polaris 400 Scrambler and I was wondering if anyone can tell me what year it is? It's a two stroke selectable 4X4 it has a radiator, automatic type trans.
 

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how about 2 pieces of all-thread where the "flags" should be and then put some of those weights for weight lifting over them?
 

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how about 2 pieces of all-thread where the "flags" should be and then put some of those weights for weight lifting over them?
Good idea, and along those thoughts.... I personally would just add a piece of bar stock (1" X 1" x 62" - or width of plow blade) painted black, to the top lip of the plow. Using the side marker/flap mounting holes adn thru bolts to attach it to the plow blade. This may supply more of an "even weight" to the blade vs. the redi-rod (all-thread) and dumb bell free weights perched on either end?? If you didn't want to purchase or fabricate the down force strut idea.

My idea would look like this, minus the tabs... just drill holes in the bar stock....



Just my $0.02
 

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The only down side I can think of is the weights might be to heavy and bend up the tabs

Sent from my Triumph using Tapatalk 2
 

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The more directly mounted you can get it the better. Remember the top of the plow blade typically has the least amount of reinforcement. as It's only designed to deflect the snow load. Not push it or lift it. So those tabs would be a no go in my book if you're adding any more weight than the square tubing itself. it just adds leverage to the weight you're adding and that's not a good thing in this situation.
 

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The more directly mounted you can get it the better. Remember the top of the plow blade typically has the least amount of reinforcement. as It's only designed to deflect the snow load. Not push it or lift it. So those tabs would be a no go in my book if you're adding any more weight than the square tubing itself. it just adds leverage to the weight you're adding and that's not a good thing in this situation.
That is very Correct, that's why I said "minus the tabs"......

My idea would look like this, minus the tabs... just drill holes in the bar stock....

EDIT: It would also be a good time to add a rubber deflector flap, and sandwitch it between the weight bar and the upper plow blade edge. I made my flap from an old rubber tail gate protector.
 

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The more directly mounted you can get it the better. Remember the top of the plow blade typically has the least amount of reinforcement. as It's only designed to deflect the snow load. Not push it or lift it. So those tabs would be a no go in my book if you're adding any more weight than the square tubing itself. it just adds leverage to the weight you're adding and that's not a good thing in this situation.
That is very Correct, that's why I said "minus the tabs"......

My idea would look like this, minus the tabs... just drill holes in the bar stock....

EDIT: It would also be a good time to add a rubber deflector flap, and sandwitch it between the weight bar and the upper plow blade edge. I made my flap from an old rubber tail gate protector.
I think the it would be advised to attach through all the mounting holes on the blade if you're going to add the rubber flap.
 

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the attack angle of the plow plays a big part to forward the plow rides up in snow....set the angle back it digs in
 
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