Polaris ATV Forum banner

21 - 33 of 33 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter #21
This keeps getting more frustrating. I bought a used key switch AND used LH switch. Both were suppose to be good. And the fact that both mine were working until all of the sudden makes me doubt both sets were bad, but maybe?

I installed the "new" switches one at a time and back and forth with my old ones and no chnages.

I have voltage after both fusible links- so they are good
At fuse box;
I have power at MAIN and SPEEDO fuse both sides of the fuse
NO POWER at EFI or ACCY no mater what setting key or Left hand switch is at

At ignition
YELLOW has constant power
Red and BLACK has power with key ON

LH Switch
Red and black has power when hey is on
I even tried jumping power or by passing the LH switch by connecting red black direct to grey red. NO change at any of the wires at the fuse box or at the ignition switch.

I feel like there is a main fuse I am missing????? Should the ACCY and EFI fuse not get power when the key is on and LH switch is at run? Or do they only get power when it is running??? WHat if I add 12V direct to them?

So to recap issue. I replaced the starter solenoid and it started right up. I turned engine off and put everything back together and thenwhen I went to turn it back on NOTHING no dash no headlight, NOTHING, not even an attempt click at the solenoid with key turned.

I have 10V (now after a week of trying stuff) at he battery, but not a light or anything will shine for me

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,079 Posts
Step by step - get it apart to the point of accessing the wiring - simply chase the power
yel to red/blk with key on
red/blk to red/wht handlebar switch on
red/wht to red/yel key in start position

Is all this good up to this point?
139437
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter #23
YES to yellow to red black with key on, and red black has pwer at handlebar switch with key on

I will check the red/wht today and report back. Thank you.

If I don't have power at white / red, could I bypass that switch by splicing the black/ red to the red/ white at the handlebar switch to test?

The handlebar switch was fine before. Then to test, I replaced the switch with another that was supposed to be good. I'm just thinking what are the chances of it failing INSTANTLY, and the used one (that was suppose to be good) also being no good? But I will see.

What about the 10amp breaker (part number 2410692) schematic says it is "located by the battery" could that have failed? Maybe I touched something?Just seems odd that everything stopped working instantly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,079 Posts
It might be as simple as a bad contact in the switch housing where the wiring harness plugs in - yes you can jumper red/blk to red/wht with a couple straight pins and a piece of wire - push the straight pins through the wires and tie the pins together
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
486 Posts
When you put it back together did you get all the wires back on the starter solenoid ? There should be four wires in the battery side of the solenoind , the heavy one from the battery and three others .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,079 Posts
They all have the starter interlock, but it only prevents starting in gear if the brake is not set (brake light on)

400/500 HO Starting procedure:

OPERATION Starting the Engine 1. Position the vehicle on a level surface outdoors or in a well-ventilated area. 2. Place the transmission in PARK. 3. Lock the parking brake. Tip: The starter interlock will prevent the engine from starting if the transmission is in gear and the brake is not engaged. 4. Turn the fuel valve on. 5. Sit on the vehicle. 6. Do not use the choke if starting a warm engine. Excessive use of the choke can cause the spark plug to become wet fouled. 7. If the engine is cold, pull the choke knob out until it stops. Tip: The variable choke is fully on when the knob is pulled completely out. The choke is off when the knob is pushed completely in. The choke can be adjusted gradually, depending on how much choke is needed for starting. Be sure the choke is off during operation, as excess fuel washing into the engine oil will increase wear on engine components. 8. If the knob doesn't stay where positioned, increase the tension by rotating the tension adjusting nut clockwise. 9. Move the engine stop switch to RUN. 10. Do not press the throttle while starting the engine.

Starting procedure for 500 Forest:

Engine exhaust contains poisonous carbon monoxide and can cause loss of consciousness resulting in severe injury or death. Never run an engine in an enclosed area. 1. Position the vehicle on a level surface. 2. Place the transmission in PARK. 3. Turn the fuel valve on. 4. Sit on the vehicle. Tip: The starter interlock will prevent the engine from starting if the transmission is in gear and the brake is not engaged. Tip: Do not use the choke if starting a warm engine. Excessive use of the choke can cause the spark plug to become wet fouled. 5. If the engine is cold, pull the choke knob out until it stops. If the knob doesn't stay where positioned, increase the tension by rotating the tension adjusting nut clockwise. Tip: The variable choke is fully on when the knob is pulled completely out. The choke is off when the knob is pushed completely in. The choke can be adjusted gradually, depending on how much choke is needed for starting. Be sure the choke is off during operation, as excess fuel washing into the engine oil will increase wear on engine components. 6. Move the engine stop switch to RUN.

For the 500 Touring:

1. Position the vehicle on a level surface outdoors or in a well-ventilated area. 2. Place the transmission in PARK. 3. Lock the parking brake. Tip: The starter interlock will prevent the engine from starting if the transmission is in gear and the brake is not engaged. 4. Turn the fuel valve on. 5. Sit on the vehicle. 6. Do not use the choke if starting a warm engine. Excessive use of the choke can cause the spark plug to become wet fouled. 7. If the engine is cold, pull the choke knob out until it stops. Tip: The variable choke is fully on when the knob is pulled completely out. The choke is off when the knob is pushed completely in. The choke can be adjusted gradually, depending on how much choke is needed for starting. Be sure the choke is off during operation, as excess fuel washing into the engine oil will increase wear on engine components. 8. If the knob doesn't stay where positioned, increase the tension by rotating the tension adjusting nut clockwise. 9. Move the engine stop switch to RUN. 10. Do not press the throttle while starting the engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
Ok power at the red black wire at the handlebar switch with key on. No power at the red and white . When I try to bridge the red black with the red white I lose all power to even the red black.
I have continuity at the key between the red black and red witw when they are bridged with the pins, but no continuity between them without them bridged no matter what the handlebar setting. ( the handlebar in NOT attached it is hanging is that matters for ground??) also weird part is I have continuity between the red white wire and the frame! So I think that wire is grounding out in something??
At the solenoidi have 4 wires on positive side . A small red, 2 small blue that are the fusible links and the large red power coming in from the battery, then there is a 2 wire connector (yellow and blue wires) and one large red on bottom that goes out to the starter. For grounds at that location there is a bolt with one large to negative on battery, one large that goes to starter and a cluster of small browns.

why is red white wire grounding out?
I UNPLUGGED the harness at handlebar and key switch.
There is continuity at handlebar harness between all 6 wires on the one harness. With it unplugged, that can’t be normal
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,079 Posts
Electricity seeks ground - when you test continuity on a power wire, it has to be disconnected on both ends - the red/wht wire goes to the, fan switch (open till hot), fuse #1 and #2 (need to pull both fuses), CDI box (need to unplug it), the throttle switch (need to unplug it, assure it is open or place an insulator between the contacts), horn button (open until pushed), pin 2 of the speedo (unplug the speedo) and pin 2 of the flasher module (unplug it) - now you can test for continuity to ground on the red/wht wire; otherwise it will measure continuity to ground through other components that have connections to ground.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter #31
Thanks latebird. I porbably won't be back to the farm until the weekend. My main question is why would the power go away when I tried to "splice" between red black and red/ white?

I am just so frustrated
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter #32
Im thinking it is either the circuit breaker that i need to find. It says it is by the battery, or I somehow fried the ECM
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,079 Posts
I understand the frustration completely - I have a degree in electronics, $100K in tools and equipment and sometimes get frustrated in trying to figure out an electrical problem, but then feel stupid when I discover it was a connection that I checked and it checked good, but then turned out to be the source of the problem.

I can't explain the loss of power when jumping red/blk to red white, but it depends on what else you might have done during the jumping process. All you are trying to do is eliminate the handlebar switch as the problem, but the switch has to remain connected to the wiring harness. If you unplugged the switch and then jumped r/b to r/w, the only thing that should work is the solenoid and starter motor.

It's easy for me, but hard to explain to the novice and many times difficult for the average mechanic to find as they tend to just replace parts instead of finding the cause.
 
21 - 33 of 33 Posts
Top