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Clean up around the crack to get rid of all of the rust and paint without digging into the material thickness too much as the wall thickness of material on a frame isn't all that great.
Take your MIG and set it up on material with the same thickness of the frame tubing and practice a bit so you get a feel of running a good bead..
Secret is getting decent penetration without burning a hole through the tubing - but even if you do go through it, it can always be stitched up easily regardless, something like darning a hole in an old sock! ;).
If you find running a continuous bead hard to do - just stitch the crack up with short spot welds that slightly overlap and it'll do the trick just fine.
The crack doesn't appear to be in a spot that is too stressed or important, so just take your time and don't get any area of the welding area too hot and I'm sure you can do a great job.
Additionally, the closer to the crack area that you can clean up a spot for your ground to clamp to - the better you will find the actual welding process will work out and it's a good idea to remove any connections to a battery if the bike ahs one, before you start welding as well..
Remember - it doesn't have to be a 'stack of dimes' pretty TIG - type of weld to do the job and be strong!
 
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