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I just bought my first atv. A 2005 Polaris sportsman 500 H.O.. It has the same problem that I have read about with the gas in the oil. Suggestions have been to change the oil. This atv did not have a owners manual and I have been unable to download one from polaris. I have also read many threads about oil but I am still unsure about my machine. What type/kind of oil should I buy? Thanks for the help!!
 

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The oil change kit that you can buy from Polairs (oil and filter) is not a bad price (here in Canada not sure about the US). It will cost at least as much if you buy the filter and oil from anywhere else, if you can even find 0W40, including Wal Mart. The only other brand I found in 0W40 was amsoil which was $26 for just the oil and polaris sells the oil and filter for $25.
 

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Thanks for the info. I am going to a polaris dealer tomorrow to buy a plow kit and I will get the oil there. Thanks again!!
 

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The oil change kit that you can buy from Polairs (oil and filter) is not a bad price (here in Canada not sure about the US). It will cost at least as much if you buy the filter and oil from anywhere else, if you can even find 0W40, including Wal Mart. The only other brand I found in 0W40 was amsoil which was $26 for just the oil and polaris sells the oil and filter for $25.

I just checked and AFF 0W-40 has a sug list of $11.45 in Canada. If you are paying more than that they are marking it up.

You could buy for a lot less with a Preferred Customer Membership and whats more AMSOIL has a distribution center in the Edmonton area so you could pickup it up.
 

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Not to add too much mud to the water, but Polaris has changed it's recommendations at least on some models. I have two 400HO's, one an '08 and the other an '09. Per the owners manuals, the '08 has a recommendation of 0W-40, while the '09 says 2W-50. The same Polaris oil change kit is recommended for both and there's seems to be some discussion or disagreement by some as to what the actual rating of the Polaris oil is. I know several owners who use Shell Rotella Synthetic 5W-40 year round and the Mobil 1 15W-50 in summer. - MarkC
 

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Everyone has to make the "OIL" decision on there own and you cant go wrong buying dealer oil but not to ruffle any feathers here but I think that needing to run 0w-40 or 2w-50 because the engine will get ruined if you don't is hog wash. The extremes in temperatures these vehicles run in world wide means that the tolerances cant be that tight. I run Rotella 5w-40 synthetic diesel oil in everything I own. From my lawn mower to my motorcycles, 4 wheelers, wifes van and my diesel pick up. $18 at Wal Mart for a gallon and if you haven't got a Wal Mart then it is available at any truck stop in the country. I always have at least a couple of gallons on hand. To each his own but I dont subscribe to the notion that it has to be exactly the oil in the owners manual especially when they come up with some garbage like 2w-50. Where else can that be purchased? Come on.
 

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Everyone has to make the "OIL" decision on there own and you cant go wrong buying dealer oil but not to ruffle any feathers here but I think that needing to run 0w-40 or 2w-50 because the engine will get ruined if you don't is hog wash. The extremes in temperatures these vehicles run in world wide means that the tolerances cant be that tight. I run Rotella 5w-40 synthetic diesel oil in everything I own. From my lawn mower to my motorcycles, 4 wheelers, wifes van and my diesel pick up. $18 at Wal Mart for a gallon and if you haven't got a Wal Mart then it is available at any truck stop in the country. I always have at least a couple of gallons on hand. To each his own but I dont subscribe to the notion that it has to be exactly the oil in the owners manual especially when they come up with some garbage like 2w-50. Where else can that be purchased? Come on.
Could not have said it better myself........+1:hail:
 

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I agree, but here are a couple of things to think of as oil continues to evolve due to inevitable regulation. Prior to 1975, most engine oils contained large quantities of zinc, which is an excellent high pressure lubricant. Zinc was added to oils starting in the early '50's when overhead valve engines became the norm and many experienced premature camshaft failure which was often erroneously attributed to defective camshafts. In fact, valve train stresses on overhead valve engines are considerably higher than "L" head engines as the valve springs have to move the tappets, heavy rocker arms and lengthy pushrods. Zinc greatly increased camshaft life in engines with flat tappet cams (as nearly all engines were in the '50's and '60's.) Fast forward to 1975 when catalytic converters began to proliferate. Zinc (and phosphorus) was found to clog the converters and what was initially the engine's savior became an environmental villan. Since that time, the amount of zinc (and phosphorus) has been gradually reduced in automotive oils to the point that there is very little, if any, left anymore. Automotive engine makers compensated for the lack of zinc with other additives (less effective) and by employing roller tappet cams to reduce valve train friction. Unfortunately, small engine manufacturers haven't been so lucky as many motorcycles use flat tappets and wet clutches, which create a whole set of dynamics that differs from what regular automotive engines encounter. This is what has prompted the proliferation of "motorcycle specific" oils that you see on the shelves. Many owners have used diesel rated oils as their specs were not as stringent as those for regular (spark ignition) engines. (They may have caught up by now, but I could be wrong.) I don't know the zinc content of the Polaris oils, but would probably recommend owners use it at least until their warranties expire. I know many that use diesel rated oils as another poster already mentioned. And, there are some that use motorcycle specific oils because many of these engines still run flat tappets (but at they least don't have wet clutches to muddy the waters). I recommend everyone do their own research and make a decision they're comfortable with. I'll likely continue to use diesel rated Shell Rotella Synthetic (5-40) or perhaps Mobil 1 15-50 automotive, both of which are commonly available for a reasonable price. (There are fine products by other companies as well. Let your research and wallet impact your choice.) As usual, your method may vary. - MarkC
 

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MarkC,
Very good post, thanks. The explanation of the zinc content was very good. I have run the Rotella in my truck for years but I learned on a Motorcycle forum I frequent about how the Rottella being a diesel oil had a higher content of zinc for the flat tappets. It also runs long molecular chains that make it good in wet clutch situations where the gears are tearing at it all the time. I was running Mobil 1 motorcycle specific oil in my motorcycles and my Yamaha Warrior ATV and at $8 a quart I was happy to give the $4 Rottela a try. I actually get smother shifts and better clutch action for longer than I did with the Mobil 1. That sold me. The thing I don't remember reading about was the zinc hurting the cat. So for my wifes van I might have to go back to Mobil 1. Thanks again.
 

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I'm a big fan of the oil in my sig. It's a little high and a little thick if you're up north, but the motors operating temp between running this and amsoil sold me forever.

I can tow with my 800 in the dead of summer while wearing shorts, before my legs would be redder than a crawfish.

The oil is a thing of beauty. For the tranny I love Toyota fluid. Crazy, maybe. But my car recommends NEVER changing fluid during normal operation. After 200k miles of floor shifting every gear, it came out looking and smelling new. With multiple road trips exceeding 24 hours and one or two exceeding 100, I'm a believer. Whatever specs their manufacturer must meet has to be ungodly.
 

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To address your problem with fuel in the oil: Your carb is probably flooding and getting gas into the cylinder when it sits. Then it seeps past the rings and into the crankcase. Most common fix for this is a new needle and seat in the carb.
 

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The oil change kit that you can buy from Polairs (oil and filter) is not a bad price (here in Canada not sure about the US). It will cost at least as much if you buy the filter and oil from anywhere else, if you can even find 0W40, including Wal Mart. The only other brand I found in 0W40 was amsoil which was $26 for just the oil and polaris sells the oil and filter for $25.
Holy crap I don't know where your shopping but I'm in Sudbury Ontario and my oil change kit was $40
 

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I'm with bacada, I use shells t6 5-40 but it costs me 21xx+tax at my local walmart. that range is more than fine for central texas, don't know about Penn. I read recently they'll be adding a 0-50 t6 later this year. many folks here use (and swear by) wix, Purolator, mobil or bosch for the filters. don't be lazy and not drain the engine sump after the oil tank is drained. 3 ozs of seafoam in your oil will clean out lots of stuck on carbon, soot and gums. run that 30 mins at least, idle or hard. Good luck. :cowboy:
 

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The oil change kit that you can buy from Polairs (oil and filter) is not a bad price (here in Canada not sure about the US). It will cost at least as much if you buy the filter and oil from anywhere else, if you can even find 0W40, including Wal Mart. The only other brand I found in 0W40 was amsoil which was $26 for just the oil and polaris sells the oil and filter for $25.
Holy crap I don't know where your shopping but I'm in Sudbury Ontario and my oil change kit was $40
Ya no kidding, $50 all said and done here. I have a freind that works at a dealership and he gets my stuff at 10% above cost and its still not $25
 

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MarkC,
Very good post, thanks. The explanation of the zinc content was very good. I have run the Rotella in my truck for years but I learned on a Motorcycle forum I frequent about how the Rottella being a diesel oil had a higher content of zinc for the flat tappets. It also runs long molecular chains that make it good in wet clutch situations where the gears are tearing at it all the time. I was running Mobil 1 motorcycle specific oil in my motorcycles and my Yamaha Warrior ATV and at $8 a quart I was happy to give the $4 Rottela a try. I actually get smother shifts and better clutch action for longer than I did with the Mobil 1. That sold me. The thing I don't remember reading about was the zinc hurting the cat. So for my wifes van I might have to go back to Mobil 1. Thanks again.
Rotella T6 meets JASO MA spec for motorcycles with wet clutches.
Mobil 1 might depending on what flavor you choose but it's not every Mobil 1 formulation... you need to look at the bottle.
 
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