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97 Polaris 500 sportsman 4x4 Indepedent shaft drive, 2000 Honda 450S foreman
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643 Posts
Mine needed a canooter
Valve before the muffler bearings,
Tomorrow I’ll change flux capacitor 😂😝…i did alignment on my
500 , tightened up entire front end, new rod ends, greased all zerks, changed brake fluid.
Prior to the service it had a weird wobble to it, it’s completely gone,between the alignment way off, no grease and lower right front control arm ball joint castle nut was loosened to the cotter pin amd rear sway links loose, now it is a completely different ride, justwaiting for a bendix bushing Metal on metal is the worst sound on a machine
 

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97 Polaris 500 sportsman 4x4 Indepedent shaft drive, 2000 Honda 450S foreman
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643 Posts
Not just today, but last 2 days. Have done the following on my 2019 Sportsman 850 HL
1) Replaced both rear bearing carriers with new bearings and bushings, old bearings were fully seized in old ones.
2) Installed 6 Anyglide anchors on rear deck
3) Mounted my Kolpin Stronghold mount and Gun boot.
4) Greased all fittings onthe drive line and suspension.
5) Greased all 4 wheel bearings, even the new ones as they were in deep freeze for a couple days to make installing easier.
6) full fluid service, 200hr/2000miles
7) Readjusted the right foot mount from frame.
Lol, last week rebuilt entire machine basically 😂…wife is really mad, in really happy, i do have a bearing race stuck on the stub axle it’s right rear inner…i just greased everything around it n put carrier back on…im gonna invest in a set of new rear shocks. Rear axles and either repair the prop shaft/new slip yoke or buy new 1…expensive buggers but it’s necessary in northeast Pennsylvania, thats an impressive list u did, what’s infuriating is after u do all that and something breaks anyway hahA
 

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97 Polaris 500 sportsman 4x4 Indepedent shaft drive, 2000 Honda 450S foreman
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643 Posts
Finally got around to thoroughly cleaning my rad. Used Nu-Calgon 429108 Nu-Brite condenser cleaner, and I highly recommend for anyone who wants to get a better clean without having to take the rad out. I was pretty impressed with how much crud came out after I had spent many hours washing and blowing due to an overheating issue I was chasing down. Happy to report that my overheating also appears to have resolved itself after the cleaning. So flushed the rad, changed out the stat, new coolant, good burp and thorough clean and each time the overheating got better but now it seems to be back to normal.
Is that stuff for the outside of the housings or to flush out internals? I had to do my
Truck. Ac condenser, radiator, trans cooler (main, secondary, oil cooler outside with degreaser (and water wetter inside the truck and quad)…also on my sportsman I had to literally get an impacted amount of dirt stuck in bet all the aluminum fins front to back u couldn’t even see daylight, this was at beginning of the rebuild (quad overheating in minutes) fan also wasn’t working, I got it all worked out fan kicking off n on as needed and it can breathe (water wetter) works wonders as im seeing almost 10-15degrees lower temps.
 

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97 Polaris 500 sportsman 4x4 Indepedent shaft drive, 2000 Honda 450S foreman
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643 Posts
Im working on something that will allow me to use the other 2 motor mount (uppers in back) on my 500 engine. For whatever reason my engine is still vibrating alot, just discovered last night right upper mount bracket that bolts to right side upper rail 1 hole is stripped out. As a temporary solution i used a little trick i ws taught long ago, take some thicker gauge copper braided wire. Cut about 10-20 1-2” strips of wire strands, bend then and stick in bolt hole, the aluminum and copper are soft enough that u can tap a bolt into the cradled wire strands and tighten the bolts back up. Im wondering if I don’t have enough of the weight of the engine on front lower isolater???? Anyway i was mostly focused on the left side back upper and lower mount…perhaps a bracket between the 2 to tie them together and a flange for backside/trans side of vertical bulkhead will prevent pulling towards left of engine ……only issue still plaguing me 😡…o and went to take mt son for ride yesterday and suddenly at about 1/4-1/2 throttle it wanted to bog down, am removing carb today (mikuni) id rather rebuild this 100 times before buying an Amazon shit jap knockoff…I think it’s a combination of the needle valve float, and between the fuel pump and petcock as the fuel filter isn’t filling all the way and there’s gas on outside of lines and pump . It sat for a few months while j was redoing everything else. I should have removed the carb n plugged intake boot …’lesson learned “
 

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97 Polaris 500 sportsman 4x4 Indepedent shaft drive, 2000 Honda 450S foreman
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643 Posts
Are you using Ethanol Free gas on your unit? If not, start using it if you can find it at the gas stations, it will really save you on your carburetors.
Not sure what you have around your neck of the woods, but where I’m at every single QT station and some of the Murphy locations have Ethanol Free gas. You should be able to do a Google search for your state to get a baseline list of sites.
I just recently found a place with it, i also run sea foam religiously, I have the darj thing apart again. Think main needle jet is clogged up…im about to get balls deep into this carb n clean it like nobody’s business haha, every nook n cranny and replace lines. Check pump. Check cables. Something is making it act up here m there, there is some sediment at bottom of tank, fuel filter is fine tho, but kay have been added after the fact and enough crud is packed into carb. Idles fine runs fine, about 1/2 throttle it will almost feel like limp mode or bogging down. Fuel isn’t filling the filter fast enough to keep running, this just started abruptly so im leaning more towards carb. Than cam n valves etc….yay o joy o rapture 😂
 

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97 Polaris 500 sportsman 4x4 Indepedent shaft drive, 2000 Honda 450S foreman
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I just recently found a place with it, i also run sea foam religiously, I have the darj thing apart again. Think main needle jet is clogged up…im about to get balls deep into this carb n clean it like nobody’s business haha, every nook n cranny and replace lines. Check pump. Check cables. Something is making it act up here m there, there is some sediment at bottom of tank, fuel filter is fine tho, but kay have been added after the fact and enough crud is packed into carb. Idles fine runs fine, about 1/2 throttle it will almost feel like limp mode or bogging down. Fuel isn’t filling the filter fast enough to keep running, this just started abruptly so im leaning more towards carb. Than cam n valves etc….yay o joy o rapture 😂
I do have all fresh fuel, im running 93 right now. Idk if thats bad, i ise it in everything i own, doesn’t bother it, I remember reading somewhere tho that these. Non HO dont like it, problem is anything else is junk around where I live
 

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97 Polaris 500 sportsman 4x4 Indepedent shaft drive, 2000 Honda 450S foreman
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643 Posts
Most of the Ethanol free stuff I load comes out as 90 Octane according to my load sheets from the refineries here in Central Texas.
I believe it’s same here, sheetz carries it for sure, it’s almost like wawa if you’ve ever been to 1…turkey hill& convenient r prevalent around here mostly so it’s 87-91-93 amd other than 93 other is poop
 

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97 Polaris 500 sportsman 4x4 Indepedent shaft drive, 2000 Honda 450S foreman
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643 Posts
Also already have the carb freed up…I think the main…or the needle valve is getting hung up i can put a line on n blo thru it but flip it n sometimes not able to even move any air…getting better with more cleaning…especially the orifices outside of carb body…idj who the idiot was in here last but every philips screw is so tight it’s ridiculous, probably most of problem to begin with, air box has some cracks in it i sealed up too and I think my oil is a little too clean right now, I changed it when i 1st got it but it just sat…only recently started running it..it’s a deeper bronze/deep gold tone now but very much still transparent, I cracked open the lines on bottom of pump and pulled the hand start to push it out make sure im not vapor locked or nothing. I don’t want to pull oil tank n tjat stupid screen, “most” never get clogged but mine was especially dirty oil that came out, ill see soon…im not driving it anymore unless im positive im getting proper lubrication to top end and rest of engine , thanks to latebird I know that these things exist now 😂
 

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97 Polaris 500 sportsman 4x4 Indepedent shaft drive, 2000 Honda 450S foreman
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643 Posts
Am i correctly understanding the purpose of the pulse fuel pump as a safety basically?…if tje quad is ever rolled the diaphragm won’t open n cut flow off?…it zo does the carburetor implement same functionality
 

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97 Polaris 500 sportsman 4x4 Indepedent shaft drive, 2000 Honda 450S foreman
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643 Posts
you would get more replies if you started a thread in the appropriate forum.

I see you have another post there

I get sidetracked sometimes, forget the whole process of it all n go off on tangents. Point taken tho I get it 😎
 

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97 Polaris 500 sportsman 4x4 Indepedent shaft drive, 2000 Honda 450S foreman
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643 Posts
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I changed this annoying little bugger today..22$ w/tax, polaris must be huffing glue with the prices for some of this stuff especially how easily it wears
 

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97 Polaris 500 sportsman 4x4 Indepedent shaft drive, 2000 Honda 450S foreman
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643 Posts
You would know if the right side of your engine sounds like two recycling machines in a war
 

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97 Polaris 500 sportsman 4x4 Indepedent shaft drive, 2000 Honda 450S foreman
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643 Posts
That little dimple sticking out to the left slightly above where I have it sitting on the starter case is where one of them goes the other one goes on the other side inside the engine towards the crank for the starter bendix to ride smoothly without wobbling around in there and making a grinding noise the sound of Deas sound and makes me want to just turn the key off ha ha even though I know it’s only a bushing for a $30 part the bushing was $22
 

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97 Polaris 500 sportsman 4x4 Indepedent shaft drive, 2000 Honda 450S foreman
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643 Posts
I love my foreman 450S…completely different animal, both have their pros n cons, the polaris is like a cadillac ride wise. Independent suspension instead of a mono shocked solid axle, the foreman it just 4x4 fukl time,…no belt to worry about getting wet, nothing but just hammer down, the polaris is flat out balls to wall fast, insanely fast , i like riding trails with my kids so I keep it under 35-40 mostly with a passenger
 

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97 Polaris 500 sportsman 4x4 Indepedent shaft drive, 2000 Honda 450S foreman
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643 Posts
I got the sportsman from a friend/borough cop lives around corner cool as hell but don’t Give them anything with an engineer lol he doesn’t change fluids or anything he’s like a female, But I came brand new mud lights front and back it says there a flotation tire? Anyway there a nice soft spongy ride and I just need to get a Speedometer now and figure out how to get this damn engine start moving I have replaced amounts that I can and tighten everyone and it still wants to pull to the left I’m wondering if something is going on inside my primary I don’t know anything about these clutches
 

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97 Polaris 500 sportsman 4x4 Indepedent shaft drive, 2000 Honda 450S foreman
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643 Posts
If it’s pulling t the left check the alignment and then the brakes. Camber, toe, and whatnot can cause this. In the brakes check to see if one of the left calipers isn’t releasing fully and causing a drag. Even suspensions issues on the left side can contribute. Have you checked if the preloads are all matched on the shocks?
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No no haha…the engine is pulling lol…man is this high exhaust temp normally off header??…insane reading im getting
 

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97 Polaris 500 sportsman 4x4 Indepedent shaft drive, 2000 Honda 450S foreman
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Ok…so i did what the manual sais…toe out 10deg +/- eyeballed it…man what a difference in turning. It was like trying to do a u turn in a ford fairlane
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without power assist before, now is butter. To the 1/4-WOT issue …NGK..BK6RE iridium @ .00032 idling around 1100ish not missing a beat And I discovered something else that’s probably the main issue of all…plug wire broke @ boot. I cut about 30 strands of braided copper wire and tinned the screw like apparatus on boot side to accept the cable..bonded the boot with wire and insulated it and dielectric grease inside and out and wrapped in heat wrap to help with the heat off manifold. There’s absolutely no resistance on throttle now whatsoever, i was starting to fear cam, lobes, valves etc. i did discover that there’s a 155 jet in carb…if im not mistaken that was added in 99 to the sportsman with the different spec carb that had some other upgrades over the 97…also hit manifold with ceramic fire paint…getting about 540 degrees off manifold now…the flange bolts were also loose. I basically have just been going over the entire machine getting to know it…id say it’s alot better off than it was 3 months ago when I got it. Amazing how a plug change can fix everything. I recently put a NGK bk5re in but read it waachanged to a 6 which is 1 temp range cooler…now I just gotta get the clutches perfectly working im scared to gun it more than 40mph right now
 
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