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Tore the front plastic, fuel tank and clutch cover off so I can check the valves. Exhaust was close. Intake was less than zero. I ordered the smallest bucket available so I can actually get a measurement. Then, I'll have to order some more buckets to actually adjust them. I was able to swap around the buckets I had to get the exhaust valves @ .009". Spec is .008 +/- .002 so I figured I'd shoot for the loose side 'cause they are only gonna tighten up over time.

Its not a terrible job to do but the whole idea of have the shim attached to the bucket really irritates me. Thats the difference between me running down to the local shop and buying a few shims vs. ordering buckets from online, or the local dealer and waiting. And, I have to do it twice due to the less than zero issue.

I really thought about converting over to the old style but I've not seen proof that it works without issue and, it would cost a bit over $200 vs, the 3 buckets I need to buy @ less than $30 each.
 

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Got my 440 bucket yesterday. Didn't have to leave for work till 9AM today so, I threw it in so I could measure up both intake clearances this AM.

Got the intake buckets ordered as well as seals for the valve cover bolts. I threw in some maintenance items too. AGL, demand drive fluid, and a spark plug.

RMATV says it'll all be here in 3 days with free shipping. I sold some old vmax parts so I had a nice paypal balance to cover the parts.
 

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Got my 440 bucket yesterday. Didn't have to leave for work till 9AM today so, I threw it in so I could measure up both intake clearances this AM.

Got the intake buckets ordered as well as seals for the valve cover bolts. I threw in some maintenance items too. AGL, demand drive fluid, and a spark plug.

RMATV says it'll all be here in 3 days with free shipping. I sold some old vmax parts so I had a nice paypal balance to cover the parts.
Got the new buckets in super quick! Even faster then RMATV promised. I didn't get a chance to throw them in till last night.
Installed the new buckets, spun the engine over a few times by hand and measured it all. .007 on both intakes and .009 on both exhaust valves.
 

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Finish the valves yesterday. Installed new tie rods and ends. Blew out the clutches. Reinstalled the exhaust shields, clutch cover, fuel tank, front plastic.

Checked oil, cleaned air filter. Took it for a test run. Started right up. Much easier than before the valve adjust. Came home, parked it, and stated prepping for HMT coming up in a couple days.

This AM, I noticed some fluid under it. It was from the front differential. Pinion seal. Called around and found a seal kit. Drove 1 hr each way for it.

Got it all changed. Flushed the diff, there was some water in the oil.

While I had my head in there, I noticed one of my front axles had a torn boot. Further investigation revealed that the inner CV was destroyed. I never heard/felt it....I'm not the only driver though.

 

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In the past couple days I pulled the front diff out of my, and a friends 570.

His diiff is shot. Mine was rebuildable.

Put new u joints in both drive shafts. New brake pads on his 3 corners. New a arm bushings for him.

Finished my diff rebuild this am. Installed it and the driveshaft. Greased everything. Fixed a lightbar mount. Removed a footwell and straightened some bent metal below the floorboard. Put it back together and did a little test run.

When I opened the garage I saw that Amazon delivered an axle for my grizzly. I jacked the right side up as high as I could and replaced the right rear axle. Getting it on its side keeps the diff fluid from pouring out. Did a test run. No more clicking and clacking.
 

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I noticed a tiny amount of fluid leaking out the main diff seal. My pinion had some pretty decent grooves in the shaft. Decided to try a speedi sleeve to repair it.

Pulled front end apart, pulled diff out, opened it up. Installed the sleeve and new seal. Reinstalled.

New diff fluid. Changed engine oil and filter. Changed transmission oil.

New EBC brake pads on all 3 wheels.

Noticed one of the lower bolts that hold the rear wheel bearing carrier to the lower a-arm was gone. Metal bushing was still there. I ran a tap thru the carrier to clean up the threads and installed a new, longer, grade 5 bolt with lots of blue locate.

I cleaned it before doing this work but, apparently not very well. Took it outside and hit it again.
 

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Added a battery tender plug to the 570. The price was right. It came off the 850 since it will be getting a fancy one up in the pod.
Added some friction tape to the wires and covered with plastic tubing and tucked it up under the radiator support for lack of a better term.
When you open the front storage you can pull it out and plug it in. When all done, it hides away till next time.
 

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11.7 while cranking is good.
I would put a whole lot if faith in what the pod says.

As noted, disconnect from tender for awhile and test right at the terminals to see what you have.
 

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A family member dropped off their Sportsman 400 HO for repair.
Someone crashed it into a tree pretty good.
Front plastic was pretty scrunched up.
Upper radiator support bent beyond repair. I ordered up a used one from PSN.
Bought some front storage lid repair brackets for a 570. Looks like it will work on the 400.
Took a heat gun to the front plastics and got them bent back into a pretty close to normal shape.
Use some JB plastic epoxy to glue it back together a bit.
Should have got some before pics.

Sounds like it needs a rear axle. I'll have to look into that.

While shuffling things around in the garage, I noticed the brake lever on the 570 felt a little off. Then, I noticed its leaking brake fluid from the rear caliper. Ordered a rebuild kit for that. Hopefully it works. I'm not much of a fan of All Balls parts but, Its the only thing I could find short of paying through the nose for individual OEM parts. You'd think polaris would sell a reasonably priced rebuild kit like many other manufacturers do.
 

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What’s wrong with all balls?
Its not subjective criticism. It first hand experience. Years ago I purchased front, and rear wheel bearing kits for my CR500 off Amazon. I was in a hurry and the parts came in 2 days vs. ordering OEM parts. The front wheel bearings lasted 2 short rides. The rear was loose the first ride! The bearings were no-name chinese parts in an All Balls bag.

I replaced the all balls parts with OEM (NTN IIRC) and they lasted for years afterwards.

On the other hand, I bought an All Balls axle for my 570 and its been holding up just fine for 2 years now. I broke my axle a couple days before a 5 day HMT trip and the only thing in stock locally was their "6 Ball Axle" so, I bought it.
 

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A family member dropped off their Sportsman 400 HO for repair.
Someone crashed it into a tree pretty good.
Front plastic was pretty scrunched up.
Upper radiator support bent beyond repair. I ordered up a used one from PSN.
Bought some front storage lid repair brackets for a 570. Looks like it will work on the 400.
Took a heat gun to the front plastics and got them bent back into a pretty close to normal shape.
Use some JB plastic epoxy to glue it back together a bit.
Should have got some before pics.

Sounds like it needs a rear axle. I'll have to look into that.

While shuffling things around in the garage, I noticed the brake lever on the 570 felt a little off. Then, I noticed its leaking brake fluid from the rear caliper. Ordered a rebuild kit for that. Hopefully it works. I'm not much of a fan of All Balls parts but, Its the only thing I could find short of paying through the nose for individual OEM parts. You'd think polaris would sell a reasonably priced rebuild kit like many other manufacturers do.
Got the caliper rebuild kit for the 570. Started taking the caliper off and noticed that one of the brake lines was slightly loose. Tightened the brake line, added fluid, and bled the system. All good again. Put the rebuild kit on the shelf for future use.

The winch switch on the 570 quit working. The 850 was out of commission so, I stole its switch and put it on the 570. Bought a new switch from KFI and put it on the 850.

Finished up the 400 HO I was working on. It had some more damage than initially thought. Had to buy the front bumper/subframe part. Once I got that, everything seems to line back up. Radiator is tweaked, but works. New radiator support bracket. Reinstalled plow mount. Did a bit more heat gun work to the front plastic and got it on and got all the holes to line up. Glued up some cracks. Installed new brackets for the storage compartment lid. Found some hardware for the LED light bar and got it reinstalled and wired back up.

Should be good to go on ATV repairs for awhile now. My daughters car broke down in the WalMart parking lot so I gotta shuffle the garage again and get it towed here so I can work on it. I assume its the fuel pump.
 

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anyone cover their CVT intake? worried more about mice than anything....I DOUBT they built a nest and that touring makes it a PITA to pull the cover.

and one more, when riding, my radiator gets full of seeds and fluff from plants. Every 10 minutes or so I have to clear it off. No joke.
Thoughts?
If you want to cover the CVT ducting, try some frogzskin


I've got nothing on the radiator issue

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
 

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Allegedly both are “full synthetic.”
Why do they call the 10w50 extreme duty compared to 5W40?
That’s just starting so how is it better for extreme duty?

Marketing?
They call one extreme, folks will think they gotta have it, polaris charges more for it.

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