97 Polaris 500 sportsman 4x4 Indepedent shaft drive, 2000 Honda 450S foreman
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621 Posts
Grrr “positive camber “You need some more caster and negative Cameron in those front wheel sir that will not pass inspection LOL
Grrr “positive camber “You need some more caster and negative Cameron in those front wheel sir that will not pass inspection LOL
That shield is annoying, my rattle is the starter bendix bushings, wondering if the bendix itself is getting worn n hung up not fully retracting after starting…it goes away when your moving tho haha and that familiar polaris gearbox wine is refreshing like an indy car going off roading, love that soundSo washed and re-installed the skid plates (removed from last week's fiasco of drain/fill plugs). Removed the clutch cover and measured the wear of the primary clutch buttons and secondary rollers..Still fine at 5300 miles!
Removed everything necessary to check valve clearance (this time removed the front plastic--much easier!). Intake valves are tight again! Went from .006 to .004 and .003..Have to order new tappets again!
Found the annoying rattle I have been chasing for 2 years...The exhaust shield is loose..Tightened clamps and will put some stainless steel zip ties on it to help support.
Wait…..what…..Negative Cameltoe?……oh…You need some more caster and negative Cameron in those front wheel sir that will not pass inspection LOL
LolWait…..what…..Negative Cameltoe?……oh…
Never mind.
It’s took about three sessions for mine after I change my front pads and worked on my rear I plan it I took turns moving the handlebar high to low left and right letting all the air come out but to be honest in the end it really corrected itself when they just riding it these are strange machines I was going to put mine back together and realized it’s Sunday and tractor supply and all those other stores are closed I can’t even get any half ass bushings for the meantime but I did a bunch of work to the clutches and other maintenance work that needed to be done and I’ll go over the entire bike again to check all the fasteners and make sure nothing else is loose like that one was because I have my son with me and they got it held up until the end of the day he was driving his self also very good at it for a nine years old and starting off riding a 500Today was a really nice day so I did yard work but yesterday I took all the plastic off the 1k. Cleaned the radiator really good. Took the right side frame rail off so I could take the gear selector assembly apart. Ordered some bronze bushings from quad logic for the shifter. Plugged a tire.
Went thru about 1 qt of brake fluid bleeding the front brake system but lever still feels spongy. I think I might blow it up out of irritation.
Bled it at the master, both calipers and the bleeder down on the foot master.
Still spongy. They work buy not right
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Everyone needs more Caster!You need some more caster and negative Cameron in those front wheel sir that will not pass inspection LOL
I'm with you on this. I'm working the hand brake only. Started at the bleeder on top of rear master. Then Front right. Then Front left.Mike, there is a pecking order on how to bleed the system. Longest first to shortest lines last.
I apologize, primary it’s riding closer to outer sheaveOn your machine you need to add/subtract washers behind the secondary to align the clutches. Adding a washer pushes secondary out so belt will be closer to inner sheave. Removing move secondary in so belt would be closer to outer sheave.
You mention the belt towards outer sheave on the secondary, how does it look on the primary? I'd be more concerned with it riding in center of the primary and adjusting the secondary to make that happen. If the secondary doesn't spin at idle, even after giving it throttle a few times, I'd call it good enough.
Isn't that an outtie?Wait…..what…..Negative Cameltoe?……oh…
Never mind.