First is the battery problem - a solenoid that just buzzes is not being closed due to the battery being discharged - if it sat for 2 years and the battery was not charged every 30 days, the battery is junk - get a new battery, dump the fuel tank and be prepared to clean the carb - if the fuel was not shut off, you will probably need to change the oil too, but wait till you get it started before changing the oil to get as much fuel out of the crankcase as possible.

 

I am only getting 7 volts from my battery after charging for 12+ hours. I was waiting to get a battery until I could get it pull started. The carb seemed clean, or at least acted clean. It opened and closed fine and the fuel was off during storage. How can I tell for certain?

 

Doesn't make any difference how long you charge a defective battery - it has to be replaced - if it was neglected for 2 years, it should not have been a question as to whether or not to replace it, but what quality of battery you should get?

On the other hand, some year models did not need a battery to run - if yours does not require a battery for ignition, you could jump start it and when you are satisfied that it is running right then put a new battery in it - if the battery holds 7 volts, then it is sufficient to act as a buffer so running it with a bad battery will not burn out the lights, but the electric starter will not work.

 

My quad has a pull start and it still doesn't even try to spark.I just replaced the ignition coil but not the battery. If i have the battery on a charger set to cranking amps that still doesn't work. What would be the next step?

 

If your battery is bad, the system won't work right even on a battery charger. Have the battery tested and replace if it's bad. Then you can move on to the no spark issue.

 

I have verified the battery is bad by charging it for 12 hours and only coming out with 7 volts. My pull start doesn't work though, and that is independent of the battery right?

 

No, if the battery is bad is sucks everything with it. I would replace the battery first and see where you are at after that.

 

If I jumpstart the battery with my truck just to get it started could I check for other problems?

 

You need to know if the battery is part of the ignition system - what year model 330 do you have? Better yet, what is the VIN?

 

It's an 04, and i'm unsure of the VIN. Where can i find it?

 

The VIN is on the title, your insurance card and on the frame - if you look on the frame, look on the LH lower frame rail in front of the floorboard and inside the front wheel - 17 digits most likely starting with 4XAD32A

 

Thanks it worked. I have it cranking but not started yet. My speedometer does not work, the 16 pin plug is broken, the clip snapped off, and the speedometer has moisture in it. Would you suggest buying a new harness or a speedometer?

 

What year? Post the VIN so we can get the right year. Different electronics depending on the year. You probably need the speedo plugged in and working to make it run. Model year can make a difference though


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2004, I have not yet looked at the VIN. The speedo is plugged in but the display does not illuminate.

 

First confirm the model year with the VIN just to be sure of what you have. You don't want to go looking for parts for an 04 and find out its an 05. There were changes made during the 2004 model year so we need to look it up and find out if it's an early on or later one. There are a few places we can check the VIN that will give the manufacture date. I am afraid some of the electronics you need are in the speedo. If it is trashed it might not run.

 

Yes, VIN is important to verify year and model

 

My dad bought it in 04 and has been buying parts for years.

 

OK - it's an 04 330 Magnum 2x4 - Pin #4 on the speedo is a kill wire (black wire) - will run disconnected

If you do not have spark, unplug the black wire at the CDI box - if still no spark, replace the stator or CDI box or both.

 

I've verified a spark, cleaned the carb, and have gotten it to start once. I used a lot of ether and then it stared a fire in the airbox. Once I put that out I tried starting it again and it backfired and hasn't started again. I've used ether and still no luck. What else can I try. I am about ready to bring it to the shop.

 

Sounds like it's low on compression

 

You could have fouled the plug with the starting fluid. Try a new plug and see if it will start and pick up fuel from the carb. If not then like Latebird said, it's probably too low on compression to pull fuel into the engine. Test compression and move forward from there.

 

I put in a new spark plug and still its not starting. Compression is the next step.
Thanks!

 

compression is at 0. I am going to do a rebuild but, I don't know the oversize of the piston. There is no option to purchase a rings without an oversize.
Any tips?

 

You could just have the decompression stuck, rings stuck or worst case, the cylinder and piston are shot. As it happens I have an OEM cylinder already bored .020 over with a new piston and rings. Came off a 2005 330 engine. If you go that way, you can just remove and replace the cylinder and piston. PM me if you are interested. Otherwise, you are going to need to pull the cylinder off, take it to a machine shop and have it measured. The measurements will determine how much oversize you need to go. Cylinders get barrel shaped when they wear out. Most places will want to measure the cylinder and get the piston themselves. I usually pay about $125 for the top end kit and another 50 for the machine shop.

 

I just re-read this entire thread and did not see where you checked the valve adjustment - before you start dismantling the engine (or as part of the dismantling process) check the valve adjustment - verify the valves have clearance and recheck the compression with the throttle wide open (or carb removed from the holder) - if still no compression, continue the dismantling to find out what the problem is.

 

Good point. The valves will tend to get tight as the machine ages so you could have a valve being held open affecting the compression. I would think there would be something on the gauge though.

 

If it sat for a long time a valve might be stuck open - in that case there would be massive clearance on the valve - a clearance check will reveal something.