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Want to start a thread that will detail a rad kit installation, because all the info I've gathered says WildBoar's instructions are vague and generic, and surprisingly there isn't a real good on here either. So first let me get some things out of the way. I have a 2015 570, and while out on a ride it overheated, first and only time it has ever happened. So I am putting the kit on so I (hopefully) won't ever have to worry about it happening again. I ordered the kit from Wildboar.com for 170$ (no shipping charge) and it arrives Tuesday, 10/06/15. I chose wildboar because I couldn't find any one else who has a 570 specific model. Alright, I'll post again when it arrives and do an 'unboxing' of sorts, and I'll try to make this thing as pic heavy as I can for all my addicts out there, lol.
 

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Rad Kit came in today, despite the flooding/weather issues we're having here in and around SC, way to go Fed-Ex! All the pieces are finished and powdercoated nicely. The directions are actually pretty good. I understand where someone might say they're lacking because it is straight forward, but if you know your way around a wrench the directions are sufficient. Probably start the install tomorrow, because its still a bit too wet outside or maybe I'm a procrastinator.
 

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Just dropping in to follow this thread.

Thanks for doing this for us so we have an idea of what to look forward to on the install for our 570's.

Also on a side note if I ever think about doing this was the part number the same for a 2014 as a 2015? I have a 2014 model and was curious if there was any difference between the two.
 

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Just dropping in to follow this thread.

Thanks for doing this for us so we have an idea of what to look forward to on the install for our 570's.

Also on a side note if I ever think about doing this was the part number the same for a 2014 as a 2015? I have a 2014 model and was curious if there was any difference between the two.
Forgot to mention that. The kit is for all year models and is kit #2288. They do offer kits with l.e.ds and snorkels, but I only needed orderd the rad kit.
 

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Removal Success! I'll try to keep it to the point and cut down on rambling but we'll see lol.
1. Remove the front lower guard, it has 4 Torx screws (T25, but I had T27 that worked better). Check out the break at the bottom, reminder of my first stuck with the 570. Buried it in a swamp and caught a root winching it out from the back. The opening is for my winch, You DO NOT have to cut it out, remove the two retaining pins and take out the small 'grill', and there's your hole.
2. Remove the Dry Storage Lid. It has 2 Torx screws up top, and 2 3/8 hex screws attached to the cable. *Careful with the cable screws-the tension will make them spring out and get lost!
3. Remove headlight/grille assembly. Pull the two tabs/ears on the plug out far enough to wiggle it off your bulb (smear some dielectric on there while its out). Use the pliers in your tool kit to remove the retaining pins on the outer side of each headlight. Use a screw driver to pry the wire tab off the brake lever side headlight pot, then just pull the entire assembly out.
 

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4. Remove the two shrouds on both sides of the radiator. They have 1 Torx and 3 plastic retaining pins.
**Now you have a clear view of everything you'll be working with** (Winch solenoid box zip tied to the cross brace at the bottom)
5. Drain the rad. Place your drain pan, aka bucket, under the machine where the three hoses connect on the back side of the battery. Use your pliers to squeeze and slide the clamp backwards along the hose, and then squeeze and twist the hose off the barb. Opening one of the top hoses will let the fluid flow faster. Forgive the lack of pics for this step, I was a little confused when I couldn't find the radiator cap. Spoiler alert: there is no radiator cap.
6. Remove the fan bolts, spacers, disconnect fan plug, remove fan. There are 4 10mm hex bolts (2 on each side) mounting the fan to the rad with spacers between the fan housing and rad face. The plug is right in between the two hex bolts holding the rad in. Use a flat tip driver to pry the tab over the ear and remove the plug. Slide the fan out toward the brake lever side to avoid the rad hoses.
 

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7. Remove the radiator hoses, rad retaining bolts, and finally radiator! Use your pliers to squeeze and shimmy the clamps backwards on the hose, and then twist the hoses off the rad barbs. Remove the 2 3/8 hex bolts mounting the rad to the brace *careful not to loose the sleeves*. You have three (3) hoses, two on top (left and right), and one on the bottom (throttle side). Remove the Torx screw on the front frame bar, just to be able to pull it forward and get enough room to slide the rad out. I pulled the rad out of the throttle side (just a personal preference). On the back you can see the 4 faced locations for the fan housing spacers. You can also see about 30-40% of my rad was useless, that is part you cant get to to clean thoroughly, but it does surprise me that I've only had one high temp issue and none since. I put the rad in a tote full of water and simple green and let it soak overnight to help with cleaning. Tomorrow I will start the actual install. Any questions/hints/advice is welcome.
 

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Soaking the rad overnight made it a lot easier to clean. The rad kit mounting bracket came together nicely, but I did run into some trouble that stopped me from finishing. Got a pic of the clean-er rad with the hardware and electrical components provided in the kit.
1. Once you have everything out you can reinstall your headlight/grille assembly and storage box lid.
2. I assembled my mounting kit and centered the mount on my top box. The side of the mount measures 10" to the center of the lower tube screw.
3. I lined my mount up with the front of the top box *which was a mistake on my part* I should have mounted it closer to the headlight pod, but I am not sure about clearance with the handle bars maxed out. My inside mounting bars sit on top of the seal when the box is closed. You can see the inside mounts and how the lid tapers. I was unable to use a washer on the bottom bolts. *I could have moved it, but I wanted to drill as little as possible so at this point I was committed.*
4. With the mount bolted up nice and tight, I put the rad in. The factory rubber bushings fit into the kit's bottom brackets.
 

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5. In the top I used the supplied spacers and the original insert sleeves in the bushings.
6. With the full kit mounted I spray-bombed the bolt heads for a little extra corrosion protection. I mounted the fan using the factory bolts and spacers.
7. I drilled one hole in the box using the drain plug hole as a pilot, and then through the box lid in what I think is a good location. I used a 1 1/2" hole saw. The angle of the outlet is a little wide and I'd like to avoid any extreme angles on my hoses so I have not drilled any more holes or connected anything else. I'll finish up tomorrow with the hose connections, fan wire splice, and coolant reservoir mounting.
 

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