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Discussion Starter #1
Searched through forums, but nothing specific to this problem whether it is the switch or solenoid.

No "out" on winch, just the solenoid click. "In" works and sometimes won't stop reeling in. Also bumped the "out" and when not clicking would sometimes reel "in" as well.

Took apart the handlebar switch ("in" and "out") but not much there (two wires) and contacts looked decent inside plastic.

I found the solenoid, under the passenger side (right) fender and all looks clean at least on the outside.

Question is: The switch or the solenoid?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
OK, just took the solenoid off and apart.
On the top section (with the four posts) I removed a black plastic guard and found the "out" post has been fused and broken. The copper plate on the under side of the post looks like it has melted and fused to the steel shoulder. It is also cracked. When I unscrewed the black cover, tons of little melted copper BB's fell out.
Looks like my problem is the solenoid.
Now, can I just order a replacement off ebay, or do I need the expensive Polaris replacement. $30 vs $109.
I know the pig tail connector is different, but I can wire that in no problem.
 

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eBay

You will be fine buying the contactor of eBay. Same thing happened to me last week but was able to reuse my relays just had to re wire a few things. In the end a relay is a relay. (as long as its rated for the proper volts and amps)

Scott
 

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I have one on my better halfs 850XP that I am opening up this evening. Goes out but not in. No click on in. I see there are screws so I am sure I can get into it. Read the manual on it and it says, "do not submerge winch". What? They put them on as low as possible but you are not supposed to get them wet. lol Warranty is void if signs of water. lol
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It is pretty simple to take apart.
Unplug pigtail connector and take 4 nuts of battery in/out cables.
Once off, the top section is held on by 5 Philips head screws.
Hold on the top as there are two hollow pipes with springs and plungers that might want to pop out. When apart, the top section (under the posts blue, black, red and yellow) has two phillips screws that hold a black plastic guard in place. There are two little black plungers there as well that might want to fall out.
The bottom section has three phillips screws as well. Be Careful pullling out the bottom section and cut the zip tie where the green and black wire feed into the unit to help lift the coiled wire sections out with the circuit board.
 

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It is pretty simple to take apart.
Unplug pigtail connector and take 4 nuts of battery in/out cables.
Once off, the top section is held on by 5 Philips head screws.
Hold on the top as there are two hollow pipes with springs and plungers that might want to pop out. When apart, the top section (under the posts blue, black, red and yellow) has two phillips screws that hold a black plastic guard in place. There are two little black plungers there as well that might want to fall out.
The bottom section has three phillips screws as well. Be Careful pullling out the bottom section and cut the zip tie where the green and black wire feed into the unit to help lift the coiled wire sections out with the circuit board.
Thanks rjsfun. I assumed there would be some parts that want to come flying out. Good info.
 

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Ok, it was really simple. I took it off, took out the four main screws, then the four holding the stud case on top of the solenoid case. Everything stayed inside the contactor upper. I pulled the solenoids out of the bottom to find one had been wet and was stuck. WD40 and working it back and forth and it freed up good. Put it back together and sealed the case joints with plumbers Goop. Put dielectric grease around the screws also just help to try and keep water out. Put it back on and everything works great.
 

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your problem is in the motor,the magnets broke free from the housing just had same problem had to get new winch
Although that is a possibility it would seem to me that the simplest solution is normally the right answer.

the first thing I would do which is what the OP did is look at the contactor. 95% of the time it is the contactor or the electrical connections.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So my new contact control box just arrived from ebay. $23 dollars vs the Polaris OEM for $130 dollars.
It is basically exactly the same except for the pigtail connector. For this I just cut the old one off my original broken one and wired on some connectors.
I think the ebay one must be cheaper because of manufacturing quality. While crimping the connectors, the base of the housing where the wires enter the plastic zip tied area cracked off. Just a small 1/16" section, not effecting operation, but it still cracked and broke off none-the-less. I've got some Gorilla Glue on it now and will install tomorrow morning.
Good thing they are cheap because I could see replacing these ebay ones frequently.
With snow and winds up to 100mph (Colorado Mountains), I really need the winch/plow up and going again!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
UPDATE:
Got everything back together and all works great.
However, while finally being able to plow again, my winch cable snapped after the second lift. Arrg! I've always ran synthetic rope on my winches in the past, so another ebay order was placed for rope on the Polaris.
 

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Okay..old topic but need help with my Polaris 550XP (polaris) winch.

It's behaving badly. Symptoms seems to point to that relay. I tried to find relay type from google but couldn't find. Can someone point me right relay so that I can dig more and try to find good alternatives for original Polaris relay.

Here's couple of pictures of relay and winch:
 

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Found ATV relay which seems to be almost same as original. Installed it. Everything works but as badly as with original relay.
IN works mostly (max 20sec..), OUT only sometimes. Recently there has been just few times that I was able to get cable out using winch. Manually I can pull it out normally. So it seems that relay is working but something else is not. Any ideas what to look next?
 

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Sounds like a bad connection(s)!! I would go through them and clean them all. Next would be checking the switch operation. Finally if that checks out power the winch directly switching the leads making sure it operates in both directions.
 

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Thanks you all.

I found what's wrong.

Motor was full of s*** and it's broken.

Those weird parts that I'm pointing with screw driver (see attachment Sieppaa4.png) are parts of that magnetic "tube". It's completely broken.

So I have to buy new winch. Do I need whole winch or can I buy just a motor and attach it to cable end of whole winch system (in attachment Sieppaa5.png)? And if I buy just a motor can I then use other manufacturers motors or do I have to find Polaris motor. What about the winch system casing..is it polaris only type of casing?
 

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Just buy a new winch.
 

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What bp said. If your motor is that torqued, and they are always the best sealed component on a winch, I don't even want to think about what the clutch and planetaries look like under all that.

Warn makes a replacement consisting of the winch core (motor, drivetrain, brake, drum, etc.), but do not include a winch rope, hook, fairlead, contactor, wire or control for situations just like this: https://www.amazon.com/Warn-PV3500-Replacement-Winch-89603/dp/B00OLBX3ZS

That said, the aluminum drum on that model can be a problem. Superwinch uses steel drums, which are stronger, but less heat dissipation.

Good news is you have a spare contactor to keep with you on the trail, and you're already prewired for a winch. Bolt up the new one, put on the leads, and you're ready.
 
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